Help on rotex gold brake pad part#
My back-ordered rotex gold brake pads just came from brakeworld and I'm not very happy. The front pads are not in a box just wrapped in clear plastic and the rear did come in box marked rotex gold Part# D9779D-7647-D779M. My ? is this, how do I know if the ones in plastic are really rotex gold pads or not. The part # on the printed label is D9740D-TRX. The pads do not have any numbers. The only thing I can see is on the top of the pads it has API/MET. I have a hard time believing $85.00 pads don't come in a box. I would like some advise on what I should do.
I ordered a set, too. They have not arrived. It's been over two weeks since I placed the order. I was told they were back ordered but that they would ship by the end of the week. I'll let you know when I receive mine as to the shape they are in.
Originally Posted by crossfirefrank
The pads do not have any numbers.
IMG_2153.jpg
sample rotex boxes... (bmw)
IMG_2152.jpg
Andrew, The pads that came in the box had part numbers. The pad that came shrink wrapped have no part numbers or anything to indicate that they are rotex gold pads. I called "John" at brakeworld and his story is this - The pads were rushed to them (many on back-order) so sometimes they don't put them in boxes. I'm just wondering if they are seconds - no box, no part numbers, no company name. I put them on the car today and they did fit. It took me a little while to figure out how to pull the back pads but I did figure it out. Never have seen that set-up before. To the forum member waiting for his pads John said they got in 12 sets so you might want to give him a call to see if yours are shipped. Let me know if your front pads come in a box or not too. Anyway what do you think about pads with no type of I.D. on them.
Originally Posted by crossfirefrank
My back-ordered rotex gold brake pads just came from brakeworld and I'm not very happy. The front pads are not in a box just wrapped in clear plastic and the rear did come in box marked rotex gold Part# D9779D-7647-D779M. My ? is this, how do I know if the ones in plastic are really rotex gold pads or not. The part # on the printed label is D9740D-TRX. The pads do not have any numbers. The only thing I can see is on the top of the pads it has API/MET. I have a hard time believing $85.00 pads don't come in a box. I would like some advise on what I should do.
Originally Posted by golfergal
The part numbers aren't the same as Andrew's.
the correct part numbers (rotex gold) for the crossfire are listed below:
front - d9740d / 7730-d853m
rear - d9779d / 7657-d779m
Then they do match. I will assume all is well. I did not receive a box on these either. They were shrink wrapped in plastic and stuffed in a DHL envelope and box. No packaging or order slip...nada...
Must say, I've had better service from most of my ebay sellers. I was never given word the part was back-ordered. I had to email and ask about the fact that the order showed "processing" after more than a week.
Then, the manner in which they were sent. If it wasn't for this forum, I would have thought I was ripped off!
Thanks, Andrew.
Must say, I've had better service from most of my ebay sellers. I was never given word the part was back-ordered. I had to email and ask about the fact that the order showed "processing" after more than a week.
Then, the manner in which they were sent. If it wasn't for this forum, I would have thought I was ripped off!
Thanks, Andrew.
I have installed mine, they seem to work fine. Time will tell if the dust problem is gone. I agree if I had not been for the good reviews on this forum I would have thought I'd got taken also. I never seen brake pads with no part number or name stamped on them.
I assume you're replacing the OEM pads with these because of the brake dust on the wheels?
Can anyone using the Rotex gold for a period of time tell me how they perform otherwise? Any noise being generated from them?
Can anyone using the Rotex gold for a period of time tell me how they perform otherwise? Any noise being generated from them?
Last edited by FP; Sep 29, 2006 at 11:28 AM.
Originally Posted by FPMartinez
I assume you're replacing the OEM pads with these because of the brake dust on the wheels?
Can anyone using the Rotex gold for a period of time tell me how they perform otherwise? Any noise being generated from them?
Can anyone using the Rotex gold for a period of time tell me how they perform otherwise? Any noise being generated from them?

I wasn't real happy with brakeworld customer service either, and it sounds as though they have gotten even worse. Hopefully another source for Rotex will surface that is more consistent/reliable.
Thanks Danimal,
I can't stand the brake dust either. I think I will go the route of the Rotex Gold. I'll try google-ing it to see if can find another reseller.
Did you install your own, or did you take it to a shop. I haven't done brakes in a long long time. My Xfire only has 4K miles. Do you think I will need to turn the rotors?
I can't stand the brake dust either. I think I will go the route of the Rotex Gold. I'll try google-ing it to see if can find another reseller.
Did you install your own, or did you take it to a shop. I haven't done brakes in a long long time. My Xfire only has 4K miles. Do you think I will need to turn the rotors?
Originally Posted by golfergal
Mine came...same as yours...have you had yours installed??? I'm very confused. The part numbers aren't the same as Andrew's.
Originally Posted by andrew
the part numbers in the pics are for my bmw 330i. they were posted as an example... sorry for the confusion.
the correct part numbers (rotex gold) for the crossfire are listed below:
front - d9740d / 7730-d853m
rear - d9779d / 7657-d779m
the correct part numbers (rotex gold) for the crossfire are listed below:
front - d9740d / 7730-d853m
rear - d9779d / 7657-d779m
I found another resellers through Google, buybrakes.com and coximport.com. They don't show the Crossfire under Chrysler, but under MB they show the front numbers you gave us as for the E320, and the rear as the slk230 (not 320). They don't show an SLK320.
Do you think this is right?
Last edited by FP; Sep 29, 2006 at 12:30 PM.
Originally Posted by FPMartinez
Andrew,
Do you think this is right?
Do you think this is right?
Originally Posted by FPMartinez
Thanks Danimal,
I can't stand the brake dust either. I think I will go the route of the Rotex Gold. I'll try google-ing it to see if can find another reseller.
Did you install your own, or did you take it to a shop. I haven't done brakes in a long long time. My Xfire only has 4K miles. Do you think I will need to turn the rotors?
I can't stand the brake dust either. I think I will go the route of the Rotex Gold. I'll try google-ing it to see if can find another reseller.
Did you install your own, or did you take it to a shop. I haven't done brakes in a long long time. My Xfire only has 4K miles. Do you think I will need to turn the rotors?
Originally Posted by danimal
There is another thread on here somewhere with instructions/pictures for installing the pads. It's a do it yourself thing and doesn't take very long at all. I would not think you need to turn the rotors unless you have some unusual wear going on.
ROTEX BRAKE PAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: (fronts)
Tools Required:
flathead screw driver
needle nose pliers
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
7 mm allen wrench
7 mm allen socket
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench
anti squeal lube
brake grease
rubber gloves
Steps to follow:
Before you start add "anti squeal lube" to the backside of the new pads... allow to dry overnight.
1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)
2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.
3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well)
3.) Use flat screw driver to compress caliper piston. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston back.
4.) Remove front caliper clip with screw driver or pliers.
5.) Remove sensors gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.
6.) Remove black plastic caps on backside of caliper.
7.) Use 7 mm allen socket and/or 7 mm allen wrench to remove both long allen bolts.
8.) Remove caliper from rotor (do not allow caliper to hang by brake lines). Set caliper on top of rotor, securely.
9.) Remove factory brake pads. Add brake grease to piston ring perimeter/edge and any contact points. Install inbound "Rotex" pad into caliper (no clip is used for piston). Install outboard pad onto rotor bracket housing.
10.) Side caliper over rotor. Secure caliper by inserting caliper allen bolts into the rear of caliper. Make sure bolts are in place correctly. Then tighten 7 mm allen bolts firmly. (*Note: Caliper will seem semi-loose, but this is normal).
11.) Reinstall sensor wire.
12.) Reinstall plastic caps on backside of caliper.
13.) Reinstall front caliper clip.
Once car is on the ground... start the car and pump the brake slowly until pressure is built up... drive as normal.
Andrew - Did you replace your rear brake pads if so you might want to put instructions on for them if you can remember what you did. I found the rears to be different than any brakes I've changed in the past. I did mine by trial and error.
ROTEX BRAKE PAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: (rears)
Tools Required:
small hammer
small punch
flathead screw driver
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench
anti squeal lube
brake grease
rubber gloves
Steps to follow:
Before you start add "anti squeal lube" to the backside of the new pads... allow to dry overnight.
1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)
2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.
3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well).
4.) Use flat screw driver to compress caliper piston. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston back.
5.) Remove sensor gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.
6.) Remove pin at rear of the caliper (will require a small punch and hammer) to tap out pin. Remove to 2 silver brackets that hold pads in place.
7.) Remove/slide out the factory brake pads from the rear of the caliper. (No need to remove calipers). Add brake grease to backside of new inboard pad where it makes contact with the pistion and any other contact points. Then install "Rotex" pads into caliper.
8.) Reinstall brackets and tap pin back in place to secure pads.
9.) Reinstall sensor wire.
Once car is on the ground... start the car and pump the brake slowly until pressure is built up... drive as normal.
Tools Required:
small hammer
small punch
flathead screw driver
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench
anti squeal lube
brake grease
rubber gloves
Steps to follow:
Before you start add "anti squeal lube" to the backside of the new pads... allow to dry overnight.
1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)
2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.
3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well).
4.) Use flat screw driver to compress caliper piston. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston back.
5.) Remove sensor gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.
6.) Remove pin at rear of the caliper (will require a small punch and hammer) to tap out pin. Remove to 2 silver brackets that hold pads in place.
7.) Remove/slide out the factory brake pads from the rear of the caliper. (No need to remove calipers). Add brake grease to backside of new inboard pad where it makes contact with the pistion and any other contact points. Then install "Rotex" pads into caliper.
8.) Reinstall brackets and tap pin back in place to secure pads.
9.) Reinstall sensor wire.
Once car is on the ground... start the car and pump the brake slowly until pressure is built up... drive as normal.


