My ignition switch (the tumbler assy, actually) has been sticking to the point where its difficult to turn the key. According to one of the MB tech forums I read, this is a very common problem because the tumblers in the ignition are made of plastic and wear quickly. The general consensus there is that when the lock starts getting sticky it should be replaced immediately because if it gets to the point where it won't turn at all it's darned near impossible to replace with out using a drill or a saw.

So my question is this: Has anyone replaced their ignition switch yet? Dealer or DIY, I'd like to know your experiences. I plan on doing it myself...

Speaking of DIY, the service manual states that ignition switch related info in section 8D, which appears to be some kind of supplement because section 8D is not in the electronic version of the manual. Anyone have a copy of it?

 

bobs, has your warranty expired? If it's under warranty, why would you DIY?

 

Warranty expired last year. The tumbler assy itself is $107 and they're looking at about 2 hours of shop time to actually replace it.

The tumbler assy comes pre-keyed for the car because you have to supply the VIN when you order it (and strangely enough, you have to give them the old one back!), so the only real work I have to do is extract the old tumbler and screw in the new one. If I do it myself I'm looking at saving about 50% of what it would cost me to have the shop do it.

 

It's a pain in the **** to disassemble the steering wheel and surrounding components to get to the lock. And you may still need to use the DRB scan tool to reset the anti-theft device, airbag actuator, if you make a slight mistake in the procedure... If they can guarantee the labor will only be 2 hours, I would jump at it... It will take 2 hours just to get to the lock, let alone reassemble the interior parts correctly...

 

From what I have read, as long as I don't screw-up the RFID ring antenna around the front of the lock I will be OK. Replacing the tumbler involves turning the key to position 1 & inserting a special tool (coat hanger) into the lock assembly to release the tumbler catch & pulling out the old tumbler. Installation is just the opposite.

The manual has pretty good instructions for disassembling the dash to get at the switch, but I wish I could find section 8D.

I guess I will be blazing a trail here in the Crossfire community because from everything I have read this is a very common problem in just about everything MB makes (a search for "ignition tumbler" came back with 411 threads). I'll make sure I take lots of pictures and write up a DYI instruction sheet when I'm done.

 

I just looked at my electronic manual and it is missing 8C & 8D.

 

Same here. It's probably some kind of super secret dealer-only supplement.

 

Here, try this... I just got the online manual for a '98 Suburban that I purchased at auction... I just checked and they have the manual for the Crossfire.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/

It's only $25.

 

Thanks. I'll take a look. Hopefully they did more than just web-ify the manual we already have. If that's the case I'm going to be upset!

 

Well, the online manual that I have for the Suburban has more info and wiring schematics than any Chilton Manual I have ever seen... Let's hope it's the same for the Crossfire...

 

Hope this helps you out!

Forget to add this to the PDF:

Key/Lock Cylinder
Removal
Note: If the lock cylinder/key is notched or jamming, spray the lock cylinder with lock cylinder grease. If it is not possible to eliminate the complaint, replace the lock cylinder and key.

 

Thank you very much! From the looks of this I don't even have to tear the dash apart!

My new tumbler should be in near the end of the week. I'll let you know how it goes and take lots of pictures.

 

I'm not sure if this is the same MBZ switch in the XF, but check out this DIY article on the subject of Ign. Switch replacement for a late model mercedes. http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/R129IgnitionSwitch

 

I replaced my tumbler today so I thought I'd share my experiences.


The Good news:

It's EASY! Easier than changing oil if you can believe it. You don't have to take the dashboard apart. The whole thing took me maybe 10 minutes. Here's how I did it:

1. The chrome ring around the keyhole is the RFID antenna. It's just snapped into place and it can easily be pried-out using a small flat blade screwdriver.
   
   Just slip the screwdriver behind the rubber flap (its attached to the antenna) and pry around the perimeter gently. It should pop right out.
   
   There is a small gap in the chrome ring that will help you align it when you put it back together, so make a note of it's position. Mine was pointed straight down.
   
   Also, you will have 6-8 inches of wire to play with so you can let the ring dangle down out of the way. Just be aware that the wire is actually a coaxial cable so make sure you don't pinch or puncture it with anything.
2. Once the ring is out of the way, you will see a black metal casing around the keyhole itself. There is a flat spot on this casing in the 12 o'clock position.
   
   Insert an ignition key and turn it to the first "notch" (position 1). Then find a suitable tool that can grab the casing (The procedure says to use some kind of special tool but I used channel-locks). You don't need to grab it very hard at all. In fact you could probably rotate it with your fingers if you had enough room to get both hands in there.
   
   Gently rotate the casing counter-clockwise until the flat spot is at about the 7 o'clock position. You should feel it unlock or release when it hits the right spot.
3. Grab your ignition key and pull straight out. The tumbler assembly, cap, and key should pull out easily.
4. That's it! Reverse the procedure to reassemble it.

The BAD news: Replacing the tumbler assembly did not solve my problem so I am out $107. So I'm writing this to hopefully save someone else some money!

My problem was that the locking linkage between the switch and the steering lock was sticking, so I pulled everything out again and lubed up the guts of what was still in the dashboard with a bit of lock cylinder lube and put everything back together again. Now everything works smooth as silk.


Other observations: Contrary to what I posted earlier, the Crossfire ignition tumbler is NOT PLASTIC. It is all very sturdy metal (even the cap) and will probably never wear out. You may have to replace the steering wheel locking mechanism or the ignition switch itself at some point but the tumbler assembly won't ever need replacing unless it has been badly abused.

Also, special thanks to Xfire2005! It was your .pdf that got me going in the right direction!

 

Good write up! Thanks for the info I am sure it will come in handy over time.

 

did that link I posted above help you out any, just wondering if there is any similarities between the xf and that guys website regarding the mercedes DIY tumbler removal?

 

Maxwell, the Crossfire tumbler assembly is completely different. I didn't get a real good look at the back side of it since I didn't have to dig around under the dashboard, but what I saw didn't look anything like the pictures in the link.

I did a lot of searching on the net and there are no write-ups on how to do this procedure on the Crossfire / R170 platform. I take that as a good sign since it tells me that M/B may have finally solved the problem. It seems to be very common in older models. Like I said in my earlier post, the tumbler/switch assembly appears to be very stout and looks & feels like it was machined out of a single piece of billet aluminum. There's no plastic on it that I could see.

 

Thanks for the info. It could come in very handy latter on.

 

Went to start the car last night, key will not turn,
no way, it isn't turning.

My ignition began to stick off & on several months ago.
Took it to a dealer several weeks ago, as it was happening
more often. They gave it a shot of lube. There was a little
improvement. Now it is frozen.

They are towing it this morning. I printed and sent along
copies of the above info, with the hopes that this dealership,
Riverfront, Aurora, is more capable than Richard's in St. Charles.
Richard's left me with a scratched motor cover after the fan recall,
then they proceeded to leave the oil filter loose enough that I lost
my oil, then proceeded to overfill the oil, the warning light came
on.

 

I wish you luck. Like I said in my earlier post, the problem I had was not with the tumbler assembly itself. It appears to be with the locking pin assy that goes from the steering wheel to the switch itself. I pulled everything apart and lubed it. It's a bit better, but still sticks every now and then. I discovered if I gently pull the steering wheel to the left while I turn the key it seems to go pretty smoothly. I look on it as a low tech anti-theft device.