i'm doing this same job now on mine. i have the thing off the car and in my case the key won't turn one bit so there is now way to get the tumbler off. it would stick avery now and then but now it won't move at all. i'm takning the assembly toa locksmith tomorrow and see if he can fix the thing. if not ... i guess it's the dealer. btw the thing has mercedes benz written on it. and the only numbers are 2020 YMOS. will post when i know more.

 

Ok, so I am having the same issue everyone else is having with their ignition. I have been looking at diagrams etc on how to remove the cylinder to replace it. The diagrams say they key must be in position 1 in order to remove it. I cant get the key into position 1 to remove it, lol, thats why I have to replace the damn thing.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the cylinder if you cant turn the key? Or is it not possible?

 

This is how I got mine out. Following the service manual I found on line at this forum. Open the drivers door and remove the fuse panel cover and back out the Phillips head screw that you see. Then remove all the Phillips head screws from the bottom panel. I forget how many then remove on screw from the top panel on the right side of the steering column on the end. Next remove the clamp from the switch assembly. Then using a center punch set a dimple in the pin that is facing you on the switch assembly. Next get a new ¼ drill bit and slowly drill the pin down. This will go slow so be patient. Then remove the ring around the key hole it has a long service loop so just let it hang. Then rotate the assembly 90 degrees and it will pull out easily. Remove three screws from the end with wires and pull off the wire harness and it’s off the car. You can then take it to a locksmith or to the dealer for repair.

 

Awesome. Thanks.

Now, has anyone DIY removed the steering column pins? I read that if you remove these pins this issue will never happen again, which is what im aiming for.

 

they are talking about cutting the end off of the mechanical assembly with a grinder. it's the part that protrudes out when the switch is in the off position. i am planning on doing that as well.

 

I broke down and just got it replaced. the dealer is putting in a whole new steering column for a grand. this is all really sickening. they said they had a xfire in there just last week for the same problem. why do they keep putting defective parts in their vehicles? its just going to happen again.

 

What is the procedure for removing the locking pin from the steering column? I thought about putting this on a solenoid for my keyless go but i guess at this point I might just remove it and not have to worry about the pin not disengaging in the future. I mean there are more important things with the security system than the steering wheel lock. Hell, if people can get keys cut for their car and can't program a new keyfob they buy online because the system is so finicky, I don't foresee someone stealing my car unless they really know what they are doing which at that point, the whole steering wheel lock doesn't matter because they'll have already thought that part through and know what to do to get around it.

Thanks in advance.

 

tHE TUMBLER IS NOW 227.00 IM TOLD BY THE DEALER,

 

Mine was replaced this last week.

See the "And the List goes On..." thread.

 

( OK) i took my xfire to the deler, to find out the stearing colum is locked up not the key system, , my key would not turn , so i had it towed in ,,thay say its gona cost 1500. to fix and laber ,, anyone had this befor ??? i know my spelling sucks so please forgive ,, Jimmy

 

If you are out of warranty and have no problem with a little stub sticking out of your ignition and the steering wheel not locking, the easiest solution I have found so far is to just remove the blade of the key from the fob and leave it in the ignition. This still keeps part of the anti-theft system intact by keeping RFID portion on the fob which you still would take with you everywhere and use to lock and unlock your doors but allows the ignition cylinder to not lock when you remove the key which is what causes the locking to occur which in turn is what is causing all the ignition cylinder problems. This is a pretty cool getcha by as it helps saving those out of warranty a couple hundred bucks. I recently spoke with a fellow forum member about his issues with the lock cylinder and he used this method with great success. Hope this helps other members out too. PM me if you have any questions with the process.

 

OK, it seems like everyone has had this problem or if they have not had it yet they will. My ignition switch has been sticking for about a month and although it has been tough to start sometimes, I could always fiddle with it and get it started in about 20 seconds.

Well the car went to the dealer yesterday for an alignment and I mentioned to them about the sticking ignition switch because the service rep. could not get the car started. He said they would take a look at it. Well they diagnosed a bad ignition tumbler and said it would be about $500 to replace it (and they wanted to charge me $106 for that diagnosis). I said no and I would probably just replace the tumbler myself.

When I went to pick it up, nobody drove it up to me and they pointed in the lot where the car was (sign #1 there was a problem, and I had already paid them). I got to the car and the ignition would not turn over. I played with it for about 5 minutes and then went to ask them what they did. They just replied that it was sticking and took them about 3 minutes of playing with the steering wheel and turning the key to get it to unlock. Whatever they did it made it much worse. I sat for about 5 minutes and finally got it to turn. Dealer was completely worthless, and recommended replacing the tumbler again which I know does not solve the problem for good.

After reading this forum I was able to get the key to turn again and pulled out the ignition tumbler and it is not the problem, it is the steering wheel locking pin like everyone is saying. Does anyone have a DIY on how to get at that steering wheel locking pin like a few members have done and grind it down to fix this problem for good? I am going to take off all the panels tomorrow morning and get this fixed once and for all, but I don't know if "grinding the locking pin" means in the steering column or in the ignition switch. Is the pin spring-loaded? Someone mentioned the cam in the ignition switch getting worn and because it is locking the steering wheel. I don't want to grind something that will make things worse (actually the car will not move now so it can't get much worse). I did get it home and need to fix this before Monday... I need to get to work Monday morning, and god forbid if I got stuck at work because of this issue.

Any help from anyone who has done this fix to grind down the steering lock pin to permanently stop the ignition switch from sticking could you please reply with where this pin is and how to get at it. I've attached the ignition switch diagram from the manual ... is it in the ignition switch and visible when the tumbler is removed or is it in the steering column or around the ignition switch?

All forum members will need this and this problem will happen over and over for the life of the car..... Chrysler may be upset because they won't get $500 to replace the ignition tumbler from every crossfire owner a few times over the next 10-20 years, but how long can they ignore this obvious design flaw?

Thanks in advance.

 

I just paied the dealer in fredericksburg 1500. to fix mine, the stering lock up , I have no clue sorry

 

I just got mine back yes it took that long to fix ,, dont fix in fredericksburg,,,

 

Don't put off getting this problem fixed if you notice the steering wheel not unlocking easily , it will just leave you stranded without any further warning . My '04 coupe's ignition started feeling rough for about a month then just broke at 3a.m. one night . Luckily it had a ext warranty .

 

Thought I would throw my 2 cents into the thread. Just got done having this exact problem...key locked up and will not turn in the switch/tumbler. The other people are correct who said it is NOT the tumbler but rather the steering lock assembly. This is the "T" shaped assembly with the key/tumbler going into the front, the ignition switch into the back, and the steering wheel lock going into the steering column sideways. (Look at the shop manual to get an idea). Replacement cost is running a little over $200 for this part. If your key starts to lock up or exhibit slow turning, get it changed before it locks up completely!!

It can be removed/replaced at home if you feel up to it. What I found is that you do not need to remove the steering wheel and airbag as it says in the manual. This makes it much easier to not mess with the airbag system and you should not need to retest the airbag system codes after you are done. Do disconnect your negative cable before you start, however. You also do not need to remove the instrument cluster as it says in the manual. You will need to remove one screw from the top instrument panel after you have removed the lower instrument panel. This will allow you enough room to gently flex it outward for the lock assembly to come out.

So, first thing, unhook the negative cable from the battery. Follow service manual instructions to remove lower instrument panel. You first remove the air nozzle (air vent above the light switch, it just pops out) to access the screws holding panel to light switch. You will remove all the screws attaching the lower cover, including the ones holding the hood release lever. You can unhook the wiring to the computer data port after you get the cover lowered, but do not let it hang on these wires. Thread the hood release lever out through its hole in the lower cover and remove cover from car.

Next, you will need to remove your tumbler set. There are good instructions posted elsewhere, so I won't go over it again. Basically, you will remove the transponder ring (chrome and rubber) from the outside of the tumbler. There are two coaxial wires connected to this, but enough length to let you put it up out of the way. Insert key into tumbler and rotate to position 1 (here is where you need the key to be able to turn. If it doesn't, you will be reduced to drilling out the lock pin.) Turn tumbler housing counter clockwise about 90 degrees and it should come out in your hand. Some wiggling is usually required. Remove the pipe clamp holding the lock assembly into the steering column. Press in the lock pin and rotate the assembly slightly downward to get access to the ignition switch wiring and gently pull the harness back out of the lock assembly (toward the front of the car.) You will not remove the ignition switch itself until after the assembly is out of the car. Remove the parking brake interlock and the warning buzzer switch/wire. The lock assembly should now be free to remove toward the right out of the steering column. Pull to the right while rotating the assembly clockwise. You will need to remove one screw to the right of the steering wheel to let you flex the upper panel outward when you remove the lock assembly. This will allow just enough clearance to remove the lock out from under the dash.

Ok, now you should buy a new lock assembly and reverse to install. Please note that to remove/disconnect the steering wheel lock is to remove a factory safety device, so you don't want to do that. Hypothetically, though, here is what might work: The locking cam goes into the steering column to lock the wheel from turning when the key is off. A plastic cam inside the lock assembly pulls this spade bit shaped end out from the column and allows the key to turn freely (think of an oversize screwdriver bit that snaps under spring pressure into a corresponding slot in the column) . When the plastic wears down, it will not pull the end bit in, and thus the key will not turn. Grinding down the entire spade bit end and even about 1/2" off of the column end of the "t" shaped lock assembly would remove the spade bit entirely. This would take away completely any steering locking mechanism. But, the plastic cam is still worn and it may still not unlock to turn freely. On the opposite side of the lock pin, there is a small square access port blocked with a plate that is staked into place. Use a dremel to grind out the stakes and remove the plate. Inside is a spring and a locking square pin. These are what locks the steering column cam into place. If they are removed, then the cam will not be able to lock into place (and will also remove the friction/dragging one usually feels when turning your key.) The remains of the steering lock will still be inside, but will be just a sliding piece of metal with no spring loaded lock.

So, a combination of grinding down the steering column end/bit plus removal of that spring and square pin should reduce your assembly to just a tumbler holder and ignition switch. The locking bar is still inside the assembly, but with no spring or locking possible. A couple sprays of a good lubricant into the open square access port also help smooth out things. One would not want to grind off too much of the housing (1/4 to 1/2") because it needs it to provide stability to the ignition switch when inserted into the steering column. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Warning, after doing such a modification, your steering wheel will be able to turn manually without a key! (parking brake still works but no steering wheel lock)

Again, this is removing a factory safety device, and if you are the least bit hesitant, buy a new assembly. If you do get your old failing assembly out, though, it may be interesting to see if these modifications might work for you. My point of this long post is to tell you that is within the reach of an average mechanic, and at a great deal less than the $1500 being quoted at most dealers. My total time was about 4 hours (taking it real slow) to remove and install, and strangely, my assembly turned out to be working "just fine" when I went to put it back in, so did not need to buy a new one. Good Luck!

 

Well, I spent my afternoon doing what Crossbow 39 suggested for removal of the steering lock. Everything went well until it came to removing the steering lock from the steering column. It will not come out. Crossbow says to pull it to the right and rotate it clockwise. It seems to rotate a little within the column but will not pull out...NO WAY!! Any ideas?? Please help, I am stuck??

 

I just figured it out! "Locking pin" is hidden behind steering wheel cowl. I hope to do a post with pictures to help others!

 

This same problem happened to me yesterday!!!! My mechanic, took apart the tumbler and the whole assembly....Whatever he did has my ignition back smooth again...The dealership tried to sale me everything in the dashboard including a new key! I'm glad I didn't go that route!!!!

 

Yes, the locking pin does it job well and prevents you from pulling out the assembly. I'm glad you got it figured out that was holding you up. Just be happy you did not need to drill out the pin like some people have had to do. That becomes mandatory when the key tumbler can not turn to position 1 (and of course it is usually when the key won't turn that you delve into this. Talk about your Catch22!)

This whole process seems like it is impossible when you first start it, but it can and does work. Take your time and go slow. As for posting pics, like most people I always have good intentions, but usually am too busy doing the job (and hoping that this will fix it) to snap any. Then, when I have it finished, I'm not anxious to pull it all back apart again. Let us know how it turns out for you.
Crossbow39