I'm wondering if any of you have any ideas to help me figure out a way to delay the deployment of the rear wing. I really want to have it pop out at around 75 mph as that seems like a more useful speed for activation.

Every time I wind out the motor in third gear and get off the throttle I've hit 60 mph and the wing keeps popping up during deceleration. I think 75 mph would be perfect and reduce wear and tear on the linkage and electric motor.

Any suggestions?

 

Maxwell, I just tapped into the fuse box on the drivers side and "hot wired" the wing fuse with a "on-off" switch and I can shut the wing down until I hit the switch, at what ever speed I want it to go up.
Just be sure to put an in-line fuse to take the place of the original fuse that you pulled.

 

I don't really want to get distracted with flicking a switch. But I do like the idea of tapping into the fuse box, I guess I can use a timer relay switch, instead of a manual switch. I'll see what relays are available.

 

LOL, Firearm, what did you do to your crossfires hood.

 

that's his custom 1969 AMX ram air hood.

 

Close Maxwell, actually it's a 1970 AMX hood scoop. BIG difference.
Personally I like being able to keep the wing down without it going up at any preset times, especially in heavy expressway traffic. I think it might get a little involved trying to get it to go up automatically, just at a higher speed. I like to keep things simple. Currently, I have a temporary button switch, but I'm thinking of an old fashioned floor mounted "dimmer" switch. Hands free!

Racoom2002, I'm glad you found my hood so amusing.

 

That's a great original idea, I'm thinking of rewiring my high beams with a floor dimmer. I really don't like to have to push the stalk forward for high beams, it just seem it should be the other way around like most other cars. MB ergonomics.
For those who never had the pleasure to operate a floor mounted dimmer you really missed out on great hands free feature. The stalk mounted high beam dimmer was just another way for manufacturers to take cost out...


Now for controlling the wing, I could picture myself bracing my left "dimmer controlling" leg while the car is sliding sideway and realizing HO ****, i forgot to raise the wing...I guess i'm getting old when I reminisce about old features and forget the essential, I think I'll leave my wing along...

 

Floor mounted dimmers were always getting full of snow and ice and corroding so bad they didn't last more than a few years around here. I can see why the manufacturers took them off the floor. Sorry for the thread drift. I don't have anything to add to the wing problem.

 

Wow Phil, Mass. must have a lot harder winters than Ohio's North Coast, and they must use even more salt (something I would think is impossible). Because I've owned at least 40 cars that used floor mounted dimmer switches and never ever had any problems.

It doesn't matter though, because my Crossfire hibernates thru our Ohio winters.

 

No worries, the Crossfire has an audible alarm when you go over 90 mph. just to warn you that your wing is down.

 

LOL. I didn't know that but I don't know if it would help since my better half is always telling me to get my hearing checked.
I concur on your comment regarding ice and salt stuff, never had a problem here in what must be the salt capitol...I also don't take my out if there is even the slightest hint of snow.

 

I personally wouldn't mess with the electronics of the car, just live with the wing going up @ 60 mph instead of 75 mph. Or just keep the gas pedal nailed down so it gets to 75 faster and it will raise the wing at the same time as long as you have the car floored. Good luck.

 

Antonio, all I did was install an on/off switch in place of the spoiler motor fuse. Nothing exotic.

 

how.... I wouldnt ming seeing a how to thread

 

Maxwell... One would assume that the engineers who engineered this fine autombile knew what they were doing. Presumably they did tests in wind tunnels/track etc and the speed at which the wing is deployed at was deemed necessary to provide adequate downforce on the rear traction devices.

 

As I've mentioned in the past, I like to keep things simple, and I'm no electrician either. So all I did was remove the cover of the fuse box on the drivers side, located the spoiler motor fuse, and pull it out.
I then cut the fuse right down the middle, separating the left prong from the right prong. I removed all the translucent plastic from them and at the top of each prong there is a small hole that I attached 1/2 of an old 2 prong light cords copper wire to. I attached the other wire to the other prong and wrapped both with electrical tape. I then reinstalled the two separated prongs back where the existing fuse use to be. Since it was a flat light cord it had a groove running down the middle of it so it split apart quite easily so I had enough slack to run the wire under both sides of the lid of the fuse box when I put it back on.
I ran the wire past the hood hinge, thru the gap in the fender and right under the fuse cover on the side of the dashboard (just to hold it out of the way) then I tucked it into the gap where the kick panel meets the bottom of the dash. The wire now runs under my floor mat where it exits at the left rear corner of the mat where I have an inexpensive "on/off button switch that allows me to deactivate the spoiler, until I decide I want to put it up.
The whole set up was temporary as I didn't know if I would use it that much or not. As it turns out, most of my highway driving is between 70 and 75 on dry pavement so I don't feel I'm taking any unrealistic chances with loss of traction at that speed due to less down force by not having my wing deployed.
I like the way the car looks both ways, but most of the time I prefer to cruise with the spoiler down. Besides, it's fun to be running 70mph and have some guy come up behind you when they feel you're not completing your pass fast enough, then in mid pass activate the wing, downshift, and hit warp drive. So far, most guys don't even try to stay with me. I think it sort of psyches em out.
When I eventually get my "dimmer switch" control installed, I'll naturally run the wire thru one of the grommets in the fire wall.

 

I'm sure your right but I want it to pop at around 70-75mph not at 58mph.

I think I got it figured out now, have to order a timed relay from the electronics store, they have one that is fully adjustable so this should do the trick.

 

The "wing" is a spoiler to prevent lift rather than a wing add downforce. I think the engineers needed to kill the lift at high speeds, probably only 100+ but it would be difficult to explain to customers in most countries why they had something on your car that would only operate when they were breaking the speed limit?

That said the original Audi TT had lift problems below 100mph and they added a wing.

 

yeah the car was unstable durring testing on the autobahn when Chrysler/Mercedes was building the car, they had to add the wing for speeds above 100mph which is why the alarm sounds when you hit 90mph and the wing hasn't deployed yet.

I just want it to deploy later so the car doesn't get anymore attention from the cops, and it's popping out durring decelleration in 3rd gear.
we'll see how well my little relay gizmo works out..

 

Could you please post some pics which show how to install the kill switch, step by step, or at least a few pics of what it looks like after the kill switch is installed?