Did a search, but didn't see anything about what is involved in changing the thermostat.....big job?? medium?? No f*****g way ????

 

It looks easy, but why do you need to change it?

 

I'm in Phoenix, and looking at going to the lower temp thermostat.........

 

If you go to TVTdesign.com they say you need to change the coolant at the same time.
I'm also looking at this, but if the above is true, I'm not going to do it until the coolant needs replacing.

Maxwell, it allows coolant to pass through/round the engine at a lower temperature - lower temperature engines produce more hp.

 

Related...sort of - My SRT-6 seems slow to warm up (by the temp gauge)(winter in Ohio - cold - certainly no need to lower the temp in my case) as compared to other cars. I have nothing scientific here, just something I have noticed - anyone else think the same thing? (And I don't mean to hi-jack the thread either - so sorry if that happens).

 

Last week I did some surffing on NPG coolant, if I remember correctly it said it could lower your temp's 30%, but the regular NPG required possibly changing some components. But there is a new line called NPG+ that is more user friendly. I searched through several site's that discussed the new NPG+ coolant then I came across a site that said it was not electric pump friendly, so I quit looking at the product. But if you want to look yourself, here's a link. I myself may look into it again to see why it's not electric pump friendly.
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm

Here's the site that said that it could not be used with electric pumps.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...id=610&pcid=82
[EDIT] After posting this I called thunderracing to ask why the NPG+ could not be used with electric pumps. They said that the product was thicker than antifreeze/water, almost like a light oil and was to thick for most electric pumps to move it.

 

There's always 'Water Wetter'.
I put one bottle in my system a long time ago and I didn't notice any difference. There's a thread somewhere, and somebody mentioned they put 2 bottles in their system (due to the size) - can't remember if they noticed any difference or not.

 

Hello,

The thermostat replacement is a simple 15 minute job. You will need to replace the coolant because the thermostat is located in the water neck. Two bolts and it's out though. I recommend 1 gallon coolant and 1 gallon Distilled Water along with 1 bottle water wetter. This alone kept our car's temps pretty consistent, the addition of the increased flow at lower temps with our thermostat kept our temps below 90 celsius, and shaved a tenth off our quarter mile.

It's a simple and worth while mod.

Good Luck!!

Anthony
TVT Design

 

Ordered today, ship it to me !!!!

 

Hey Tazz,

It was shipped today should have it by Friday or Saturday.

Thanks again for the business!
Anthony
TVT Design

 

This is really an interesting thread... Im not sure why you all are discussing changing the thermostat. Have any of you monitored the ECT during hard driving ? TVT do you have data readings from the ECT ? What are you attempting to achieve by changing the thermostat ?

I have data logs during race conditions that were taken in 100 degree ambient temps and I never saw anything unusual... So what's all this discussion about ? And what's this product supposed to do ?

 

By the way, all of my data logs are taken during 20 minute road racing events on a 2.8 mile road course. So, I'm confused at how the ECT's of an engine that is sitting and waiting for staging at a drag race would even get hot at all...

You say that your thermostat kept your ECT's below 90 degrees c ... Take a look at my data sheets under race conditions in 100 degree ambient temps with the OEM thermo and running 30% propylene glycol, 1qt of water wetter...

I smell smoke ! Like somebody is blowing it up people's asses...

 

HDDP,

As much as I love skeptics, I've seen you knock down everybody's products on this board. No matter what the idea was, if you don't have it on your race car or didn't think of it then it's not good enough. BDJ Racing can attest to this. You really need to lighten up a little.

Engines run better when cooler. With the entire OEM setup we would see 100+ temps after a 14sec drag race. Keep in mind that road racing has much more airflow and less WOT runs then drag racing. They are two completely different animals. Our thermostat is machined to allow additional coolant in prior to the thermostat being completely opened.

A member on the MB boards makes a thermostat that opens at a cooler temp, but if the computer is not configured the correct way the fans tend to overrun and burn out (check the board before you don't believe me). This also may give up some creature comforts like heat.

With our thermostat we kept temps below 90degrees even in full out runs. Plus after the runs the engine cooled much faster, but this isn't where the product shines. Since most of us will be doing spirited drving on the street, you will rarely be doing 2.8 mile road course runs, and at occasion be doing a stop light drag. Most of your time will be spent at idle and moderate throttle however. The increased flow will keep your engine at a nominal temp with it creeping over the 90 mark in really hot weather or prolonged idling, but will quickly drop down.

Our engines are not magical or special, they still adhere to all the basic rules for making power in an engine. This area was one that was overlooked.

Thank you,
Anthony
TVT Design

 

HDDP,

I was reading your comments on Steve Hellums thread https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=20813 where he discussed separating the HE coolant and engine coolant by adding a small radiator coolant tank. (I like this approach VS a new HE tank for street purposes)

There you mentioned that the IC is smack dab in the middle of the hottest part of the engine - so wouldn't a cooler running engine help with the heat soak issue - not just the IC but all the other components also?

Would running a cooler engine have any affect on performance?
What about the EvoSport Phenolic spacers? http://www.evosport.com/product/prod...VO.PER.32K.PS1

I'm not talking about drag/track racing - just basic street driving and possible canyon/road course driving?

Thanks -

 

I agree, Steve's idea is very sound since cooling the charge air is a key component to increasing HP. The phenolic spacer concept is much the same, what I can surmise is that it isolates / insulates the SC outlets from the engine block to limit heat transfer to the SC housing material and thus prevents transferring that added heat to the charge air.

And of course, cooling an engine is a good thing... But, slapping on a less restrictive thermostat is not going to increase your HP unless you're engine is running seriously hot and the new thermo reduces the heat substantially... I just get ticked when I see unsubstantiated claims and there is no data to back it up... I know exactly what the ECT's run on this engine because I have logged them electronically... And to make claims that your new whiz bang gizmo reduces engine temps by "X" amount and not have ECT logs to back-up your claim, is typical used car salesman stuff...

And, for that matter, if you are so worried about ECT's and want to reduce them, remove the damned thermo completely to get a free flowing cooling system... So what, it will take you 5 minutes longer to get your heater to blow hot air !!! We don't run thermos in engines, no need...

Get the point ?

 

Am I missing something in the picture posted in the evosport site about the phenolic spacer's? Just looks like a couple extra thick gaskets .

 

Nope, you're not missing anything... That's all they are... they are 3mm thick and pressed out of phenolic material, which has insulating properties... That being said, I did purchase them and installed them on the new engine, but I still think the claim of notable reduction in charge air temps are a bit overblown...

Sorry to misunderstand your concept about the coolant system. I'll post over there...

 

A few years back I worked for a company that made power converters; some for space/satellite use. They mounted on the interior wall of the satellite shell, when in orbit and spinning, the temperature changes from cold to hot were extreme, a similar type of spacer was used to insulate our product from thermal shock.

I assume that's what these spacers do. But I have yet to try them.

 

I got the thermostat from TVT and installed it today, even though it is only 70 today, I can tell a difference in the engine temp gauge esp. when on the freeway -- it runs two marks lower than it did this morning before I made the change under the same load / running conditions (as best I can match things up). I will know more after this coming weekend's track day at PIR......... I have since added some Water Wetter too.......

 

Lower engine temp tricks the CPU (computer) in thinking that the engine is not wormed up yet. The CPU (computer) then adds more gass than usual. Making the engine run rucher. More gass means more horsepower. It's cheeper than adding larger injectors.