What qualifies as a “real dyno”? I ask because my 6 was dyno without the front wheels spinning and with no apparent problems.

 

The dyno shop needs to have a STAR Diagnotic tool to put the SRT6 into dyno mode, (your BAS/ESP light will be illuminated during the runs) then you can dyno up to your preset RPM limiter with the front wheels stationary.

Some of the more modern Dynos have a build in DRBII cable to plug into the diagnostic port to monitor the cars sensor (IE a Dyno-Dynamics) and can also put the car into the dyno mode - This is what Speedinnovations had when they dyno-tuned my SRT - the stock or baseline pass only revved to 5800 RPM - once SI set the Rev Limiter to 6250 RPM's - thats where the rest of the passes were dyno'ed to....

 

I know dyno number are basically BS but I just wanted to get a baseline before adding my goodies and also wanted to verify that my wideband A/F gauge was reading accurately(which it was dead on the money). Now that I know my wideband is where it should be I don't care to dyno the car any more since I race it 1-3 times a month at the local 1320.

 

Are you saying that you'll need to have the DRBII cable everytime or they just needed it that one time and that they've tweaked your ecu so you can now past 5800RPM?

Just wondering since I didn't need the cable when I re-dyno'd mine without SI being there.

 

Not sure - I'll have to call and ask. I have yet to re-dyno mine since SI tuned the ecu.

** EDIT **

I just got an email from SI informing me that they modified the settings in my ECU so that I can dyno to 6,250 on any dyno machine without the need of the star diagnositc unit - that's good to know.

They also informed me that the Star Diagnostic tool can be used to adjust the radiator fan temp setting....