In 12 years I've used this method twice and it worked for me.

 

I am looking for help with similar problem. I let the battery go dead and started driving it again and the cruise would not engage at above 60 mph or when the spoiler is deployed. Below that speed it works every time. It happened once before when the battery was disconnected for maintenance. That time it started working eventually on its own. I took the car to get my emissions test last week and it failed because there were not enough parameters stored in the computer for them to read. Any ideas?

 

The pollution parameters are stored in memory and altered as dictated by the various sensors. With a loss of power from the battery these figures are lost and need to be obtained. This requires the car to be driven at various speeds for certain lengthe of time, these are explained on this forum somewhere.
I am in the same situation, requiring the test to obtain the licence plate sticker.

 

Each time I switch rear wheels to dragrace my cruise stop wrking for awhile til it learns the new tire diameter and its start back wrking so make sure your tires are close in diameter to factory specs drive a few miles on the highway trying to engage the cruise it will at first but only at a lower speed say 40mph and slowly wrk your speed up

 

Having gone thru this thread completely, it made me think about something. Quite a few folks put wider tires (265, 275, 285 Series) on the rears. That means the rear tires are possibly a larger diameter (depending on aspect ratio) than factory size. Do those that do this see a cruise control "learning" process?

 

Whenever i put my 255-50-16s on the rear it take about 2 or 3 days for the cruise to stsrt back wrking

 

Probably way too late to be of interest, but since I saw only one reply, I thought I'd respond. Mine did this when I put slightly larger rear tires on. Initially cruise would work only at lower speeds and for several seconds. Over a few weeks of very light use, it steadily improved to fully correct operation. It makes sense; I'm just glad the car is smart enough to learn and correct.

That was a few years back. Now the cruise control is dead from some other issue I believe to be unrelated. Wiring damage (rodent) or water damage from a horrible road trip. More to search before I start asking questions again.

Merry Christmas.

Michael, black 05 Roadster, 6spd Limited

 

A horrible road trip? Check for codes, and physically check for wheel sensor damage from debris. Might be one sensor inop and causing CC to not set? Just a guess but it might be the source?

.

 

Well I knew what I meant. Drove from north Mississippi to Mammoth Cave for an anniversary. Had a great time there, but drove in monsoon rains much of trip. The car did wonderfully well, but a couple of weeks later I had no start, no codes. At least, I had no lights indicating trouble. It acted as if the clutch was not depressed.

After replacing the battery, studying the wiring diagrams, and working my way along with a meter, I found no damage but no voltage in the start circuit past the clutch switch. I ran a jumper from the clutch to the box adjacent to the battery. That gave me normal operation and no codes. The only problems now are constant -36 degree outside temp and no cruise control. I replaced the sensor in the bumper cover, hoping the cruise control was disabled due to assumed extreme cold. It's still -36 degrees here in Mississippi.

I got an endoscope for Christmas, so should be better able to check for physical damage to wiring under the dash. I don't fold as well as I used to. I'll be asking more questions in a new thread after I dig back into the problem. Any suggestions are appreciated. As for wheel speed sensors and trouble codes, wouldn't any code give me some trouble light? I have a fair DTC reader, but it can't do much with the Crossfire.

Thanks for asking.

Michael