Throttle Body Removal
nope, I'm just retarded sometimes... I use big time production camera equipment on multi-million dollar shows and I swear, I have to have Jenny show me how to use our little personal digital camera at home... Now how retarded is that ?
Anyway I figured out the throttle body thing... I'll post a few pictures if I can figure out how to use our little camera... LOL
Anyway I figured out the throttle body thing... I'll post a few pictures if I can figure out how to use our little camera... LOL
That round housing that the grills are on is called the mass air flow sensor or MAF. A key sensor that sends a voltage modulation signal to the ECU to provide one of the key variables in the air-fuel calculation... the beauty of OBDII Engine management.
The plastic "grill" is to straighten the air so the MAF can have a smooth flow of air to over the voltage sensor element (really fine wire like what is inside a light bulb) inside the maf housing.
The second metal screen is to catch any air borne particles in case the paper filters fail or are left out accidentially.
I would suggest NOT removing the grill cause the MAF is very picky and tempermental when the air flow is not straight or has any inconsistancy. Therefore no straightner no good signal to the ecu no good air to fuel ratio calculated.... crappy gas mileage is just aroud the corner.
The plastic "grill" is to straighten the air so the MAF can have a smooth flow of air to over the voltage sensor element (really fine wire like what is inside a light bulb) inside the maf housing.
The second metal screen is to catch any air borne particles in case the paper filters fail or are left out accidentially.
I would suggest NOT removing the grill cause the MAF is very picky and tempermental when the air flow is not straight or has any inconsistancy. Therefore no straightner no good signal to the ecu no good air to fuel ratio calculated.... crappy gas mileage is just aroud the corner.
Never mind.... Got it... Below the plastic intake GRILL is a metal mesh screen which is probably installed to prevent debris introduction... Below the screen is a HUGE oxygen sensor which occludes 30% of the intake pipe... Below the O2 sensor at the bend in the manifold are two directional baffles molded inside the intake pipe...
The manifold is easily removed from the housing via the removal of the attachment clips and the plastic top collar ring which snaps apart... the O2 sensor connection is removed by pinching the retainer pins on the side of the manifold and pulling the connection boot...
The manifold is easily removed from the housing via the removal of the attachment clips and the plastic top collar ring which snaps apart... the O2 sensor connection is removed by pinching the retainer pins on the side of the manifold and pulling the connection boot...
Dude what are you saying..... O2 sensors pre intake manifold?
O2's are in the OBD II system pre cat and after cat to sense a failed cat converter or exhause leak or engine that is creating to much polutents.
O2 sensors.....Exhaust side of the engine.... not intake side.
Bosch make an excellent book on OBDII engine management.... Really good read if you are serious about modifying a OBD II vehicle. I also have a full Crossfire Service manual CD if you need more help.
Out ChrisG
O2's are in the OBD II system pre cat and after cat to sense a failed cat converter or exhause leak or engine that is creating to much polutents.
O2 sensors.....Exhaust side of the engine.... not intake side.
Bosch make an excellent book on OBDII engine management.... Really good read if you are serious about modifying a OBD II vehicle. I also have a full Crossfire Service manual CD if you need more help.
Out ChrisG
Chris... Thanks for the info... Assumed it was an O2 sensor... great to know... below the sensor are two horizontal baffles at the turn in the intake... The intake on the SLK32 does not have these and the pipe is clean...
What is your opion on removing the lower baffles to increase airflow ???
PS: Triplets ??? I just looked at your album... Congrats... You must have the patience of a saint...
Derek
What is your opion on removing the lower baffles to increase airflow ???
PS: Triplets ??? I just looked at your album... Congrats... You must have the patience of a saint...
Derek
the closer you get to the intake manifold the more I would hesitate to modify anything.... the further away from the intake manifold (pre MAF closer to atmosphere) the more safe it is... I would even venture to say this is where most car manufactures cut corners to save money... Intake runners depend on several flow volume variables to equalize the air flow evenly to each cylinder you may just create idle, WOT issues and misfires which you don't want to venture into with a multi spark per cylinder car.
My advice... find a way to modify our crappy air box to be less restrictive and don't mess around with anything past the maf going toward the intake manifold.... runners need the OE enginnering.
now you can see why it is safe to modify intake pre maf... Maf still straightens the air properly for calc.... sometimes even better when there is less restriction and no obsticles (smooth tubing for the intake) creating uneven air current.
I use to have a Stage III Volkswagen GTI from APR tuning... the turbo collected air so fast with so much pressure the one and only silcone intake elbow would collapse. The airbox did not have enough inter volume to handle the turbos need for air.... the airbox even had to be modified with an air horn to collect air and straighten air it even before the MAF cause the turbo was sucking so damn hard and the maf could not send a good signal cause the airflow has so much current....
I.E. out with the the airbox.... new solid intake elbow and wider mouth to the collector horn that was once inside the airbox, now it is inside an open element K&N.... Al la ChrisG enginnering.
Pics below


Hope this helps... Kids are one now, in good health, advancing out of premature birth issues day by day.... pretty cool being a dad to the power of 3 instantly.
Now you know why I have a Crossfire... My little piece of vacation on 4 wheels. Kids were NOT products of fertility drugs.... my wife has twins in her genes... we are very blessed.
My advice... find a way to modify our crappy air box to be less restrictive and don't mess around with anything past the maf going toward the intake manifold.... runners need the OE enginnering.
now you can see why it is safe to modify intake pre maf... Maf still straightens the air properly for calc.... sometimes even better when there is less restriction and no obsticles (smooth tubing for the intake) creating uneven air current.
I use to have a Stage III Volkswagen GTI from APR tuning... the turbo collected air so fast with so much pressure the one and only silcone intake elbow would collapse. The airbox did not have enough inter volume to handle the turbos need for air.... the airbox even had to be modified with an air horn to collect air and straighten air it even before the MAF cause the turbo was sucking so damn hard and the maf could not send a good signal cause the airflow has so much current....
I.E. out with the the airbox.... new solid intake elbow and wider mouth to the collector horn that was once inside the airbox, now it is inside an open element K&N.... Al la ChrisG enginnering.
Pics below


Hope this helps... Kids are one now, in good health, advancing out of premature birth issues day by day.... pretty cool being a dad to the power of 3 instantly.
Now you know why I have a Crossfire... My little piece of vacation on 4 wheels. Kids were NOT products of fertility drugs.... my wife has twins in her genes... we are very blessed.
Click here to download the service manual: http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~sald...ice_manual.rar
It is about 38MB for the RAR file.
It is about 38MB for the RAR file.
the throttle body is mounted in the backside vertical side of the engine. It actually points to the rear. So if you are thinking of putting in a larger throttle body, I think you will have to remove the engine. I have pic of the throttle body that I will post soon.
Originally Posted by saldous
Click here to download the service manual: http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~sald...ice_manual.rar
It is about 38MB for the RAR file.
It is about 38MB for the RAR file.
You firstly need to extract the pdf document from the .RAR file (like a zip).
Use WinRAR to unpack the file you download from my site: http://www.win-rar.com/index.php?aid...0e1b07ac4a276b
A Mac version is on that site so your should be fine.
Then you will have the .pdf file. Use Adobe Acrobat to read this: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
Use WinRAR to unpack the file you download from my site: http://www.win-rar.com/index.php?aid...0e1b07ac4a276b
A Mac version is on that site so your should be fine.
Then you will have the .pdf file. Use Adobe Acrobat to read this: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
Originally Posted by ChrisG
I also have a full Crossfire Service manual CD if you need more help.
Out ChrisG
Out ChrisG
Hi Saldous,
I have downloaded the rar twice and when I try to unpack it with Winrar I get an error:
! ac5.pdf: The file "ac5.pdf" header is corrupt
Could you check the file for me and see if it works ???
I have downloaded the rar twice and when I try to unpack it with Winrar I get an error:
! ac5.pdf: The file "ac5.pdf" header is corrupt
Could you check the file for me and see if it works ???


