BLUE HEADLIGHT CLASS, EVERYONE INVITED
Howdy, Sorry for the large writing on the title. Actually the class is for me but everyone is welcome.
Im just wondering with all the blue headlight talk over the months on here what's the verdict? Im talking about the simple replacements not the expensive complex HID's so keeping that in mind, im wanting to know about the BEST and Coolest euro-type replacement (that is inexpensive) Anyone want to take the floor? There's lots of poential products out there and I want to know exact brands, product numbers and of course how to replace them myself. Thanks and take a seat OR proceed to the front of the class to the blackboard if you have revelant info.... 8)
Im just wondering with all the blue headlight talk over the months on here what's the verdict? Im talking about the simple replacements not the expensive complex HID's so keeping that in mind, im wanting to know about the BEST and Coolest euro-type replacement (that is inexpensive) Anyone want to take the floor? There's lots of poential products out there and I want to know exact brands, product numbers and of course how to replace them myself. Thanks and take a seat OR proceed to the front of the class to the blackboard if you have revelant info.... 8)
I'm happy with my SilverStar's. $75 for low beams and fogs. Get 'em at Wal-Mart.
I hesitate to go with higher wattage bulbs, since I don't know the wire gauge of the XF headlight wires, and going too high on bulb wattage >could< "smoke" the factory wiring. Headlights and fogs stock are 55W bulbs, 70W's are probably safe, but some of the higher draw bulbs I just don't know yet.
If I step up to something else, it'll be to true HID's. They only use the stock bulb wires to send the "turn on" signal to the ballasts. Then it's just a matter of picking a color temperature. I don't want to go TOO blue, so my initial thoughts are that anything above 8000K is prolly not for me. I'm trying to borrow a light meter from work (last I checked it was out for annual calibration) to measure the factory bulb color temp, my SilverStar's, and my wife's Murano (those HID's look just right to me). Then see if I can track down a Pacifica, maybe a Z, and some others and get color temps from those too for comarison.
I hesitate to go with higher wattage bulbs, since I don't know the wire gauge of the XF headlight wires, and going too high on bulb wattage >could< "smoke" the factory wiring. Headlights and fogs stock are 55W bulbs, 70W's are probably safe, but some of the higher draw bulbs I just don't know yet.
If I step up to something else, it'll be to true HID's. They only use the stock bulb wires to send the "turn on" signal to the ballasts. Then it's just a matter of picking a color temperature. I don't want to go TOO blue, so my initial thoughts are that anything above 8000K is prolly not for me. I'm trying to borrow a light meter from work (last I checked it was out for annual calibration) to measure the factory bulb color temp, my SilverStar's, and my wife's Murano (those HID's look just right to me). Then see if I can track down a Pacifica, maybe a Z, and some others and get color temps from those too for comarison.
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The Silverstar's, in my opinion, are about the best you can get short of going HID. They've got the brightest, most intense white I've seen from a normal halogen bulb. Additionally, they don't run all that hot, nor do they draw a ton of current, so you don't have to worry about frying your stock wiring.
Originally Posted by Danwell
Thanks and take a seat OR proceed to the front of the class to the blackboard if you have revelant info.... 8)
Thanks - I'm taking notes!
i bought a pair of phillips ralle bulbs online from euro bulb, the bulbs are 70w and do not heat up your wiring harness,plus they light up bright white & i can see better with them , then i did with the silverstar brand. i hope this helps......
bought a pair of phillips ralle bulbs online from euro bulb, the bulbs are 70w and do not heat up your wiring harness,plus they light up bright white & i can see better with them , then i did with the silverstar brand. i hope this helps......
:arrow: Sounds good, lots of interesting information. So the Silverstar's are good but the Philips Rally are better?
:arrow: What product numbers are they (Silverstar, Philips and Spark Blue) Do you use different ratings for Bright and Dim lights? How's that work?
:arrow: Are these hard to install?
Danwell sits back down and listens
Just found this: check it out
http://www.eautoworks.com/html/Searc...~Crossfire.htm
Is "H7" the type of bulb we need for the Crossfire?
http://www.eautoworks.com/html/Searc...~Crossfire.htm
Is "H7" the type of bulb we need for the Crossfire?
Originally Posted by RGT
Yes, H7.
Originally Posted by Cyril Baldwin
It's easy to put them on ( headlight and fog ) not like the high beam headlights where it's a miserable thing to do.
Sorry for all the questions but ive never considered replacing headlights before but I think the Crossfire needs the euro-style to match its looks. 8)
I replaced all four headlights. They are right, the high beams are a real hassle. But, my god, they are so bright it is incredible. I've yet to do the foglamps. I've got the bulbs, but haven't taken the time to do it yet.
i don't understand why everyone is saying the high beams were such a pain. i have replaced every bulb in my front end (and the turn signals in the rear) and the only ones that were at all a problem were the parking/standing lights. to change those, i had to basically remove the whole headlight assembly. but all the others were basically plug and play. however, when changing out the headlamp bulbs, be sure that they are seated properly when reinstalled. if not, your aiming will be way off. i had to reseat mine once i realized this. here's the list of bulbs...
High and low beams - Silverstar H7ST
Fog lights - Silverstar 9006ST
Parking/Standing lights - Philips Bluevision W5W
Turn signals (front and rear) - Silverstar 7507ST
and here's a picture with all the bulbs changed

i really like the whiteness of the silverstars. i just wish i could see what the look like from another car coming at mine! i also couldn't imagine only changing one or two of the bulbs and having them not match. gotta do them all! or maybe that's just me
High and low beams - Silverstar H7ST
Fog lights - Silverstar 9006ST
Parking/Standing lights - Philips Bluevision W5W
Turn signals (front and rear) - Silverstar 7507ST
and here's a picture with all the bulbs changed
i really like the whiteness of the silverstars. i just wish i could see what the look like from another car coming at mine! i also couldn't imagine only changing one or two of the bulbs and having them not match. gotta do them all! or maybe that's just me
High and low beams - Silverstar H7ST
Fog lights - Silverstar 9006ST
Parking/Standing lights - Philips Bluevision W5W
Turn signals (front and rear) - Silverstar 7507ST
Fog lights - Silverstar 9006ST
Parking/Standing lights - Philips Bluevision W5W
Turn signals (front and rear) - Silverstar 7507ST
Goat's right about the seating of the bulbs. Although I got them all in, one was not seated properly and was therefore out of alignment. I had to remove it and reinstall. You can feel the bulb "seat" itself in the grooves if you pay attention.
Originally Posted by goat
...the only ones that were at all a problem were the parking/standing lights. to change those, i had to basically remove the whole headlight assembly...
There are four bolts for each headlight assembly - two above and two below. To get to the bolts below, you have to remove the grille and front bumper. I read in one of the other threads that there are 20? bolts holding the front bumper in place. To get to those, you have to remove the wheel and the wheel well shroud. And while you have the front bumper off, it's a good idea to replace your fog lights.
I'm waiting for my parking/standing lights to come in and I can start on this project. Please let me know if the info above is incorrect or if I have something missing.
I did not take off the whole front bumper and grill. I manipulated a wrench to get to those lower bolts without taking all that off. It was kind of a pain, but less work than removing all that other stuff.
as a side note, you do not need to remove the bumper to change the fog lights. there is an access panel in each wheel well. open this panel and you can very easily reach in and pull the fog lights.
as a side note, you do not need to remove the bumper to change the fog lights. there is an access panel in each wheel well. open this panel and you can very easily reach in and pull the fog lights.


