First the series of events. I overcharged my stock battery, left it on my circa 1978 sears battery charger and cooked it good. (not in the car) So I wasn't surprised that it didn't want to hold a charge afterwards. One day soon afterwards, the car barely started but I decided to run down to the gas station anyway. Got there, filled with gas and not even a click. Even boosting the battery the car wouldn't start. I figured it failed internally from my mistake. So, a used battery to the rescue. Started and worked fine until last month. Since that time about every 3 or 4 days the car didn't want to start. Naturally I cussed the used battery and put in my race battery. It too had the same symptoms. So today I purchased a new battery, put it in the car and it clicked but didn't turn over. Then all the lights would light up with no click of the starter. Waited 30 seconds and the car started normally, ran 30 seconds and died. It appears I wasted my money on a new battery and tomorrow I'll pull the RCM to see what it looks like. It's truly strange that after the first "no start problem" I drove the car daily and raced several events with no recurrence. The MYSTERY name fits perfectly seeing how inconsistent this no start can be. Now I'm hoping it's the RCM that I know how to fix and not some unknown gremlin.

Les

 

Maybe your time for the skreem module.... I had some battery issues as well. The braille failed. Luckily it was still under warranty. I put in a new full size for now, and will only use the small one for race days. That solved my issues. Damn cars are so voltage/amp sensitive. You never know what to expect once you have a battery issue.

 

I presume we have eliminated the Crank Position Sensor?

 

Yes and no. I had an occasional hard start and then crank sensor code 2 years ago, purchased a Borg Warner CPS and it was ….. a near death experience. Car just quit going down the road. Reinstalled the original with some dielectric grease and haven't had trouble since. I have new a Bosch CPS in my tool box. So I'm covered. Tomorrow is the day because I'm watching football now.

Les

 

Soon to be watching football myself. Good luck. Somehow, I think you will fix it just fine.

 

i can see one pin that could be a problem.

Les

 

You better hit all three of those while yer in there.

Those that haven't repaired the RCM are just begging for it to go bad.

 

Is this a problem with all years or just some ? (I see a number of things apparently fixed on my 07).

 

Well, still nothing. When trying to look for codes the dashdaq told me to turn the key on and try again. I'm searching for my other key. Perhaps my key is fried. (they both have new batteries)

Les

 

No go. On the 10th try the starter got power and started the car which shut off after 2 seconds. To be clear to everyone, the dash lights up, the radio works, the fan and lights all work, the starter doesn't click (if it does the car starts but wont stay running) I'm going to revise the easy first, fuel pressure, cables, connections. Any ideas how to trouble shoot if it's none of the above?

Les

 

Do you know anyone with Star DAS? It will give you good intel.

 

No such luck. I'll eliminate what I can to narrow down what's gone wrong. If I don't find anything I'll redo the RCM but I'm pretty confident it's fine now. Fun, fun, fun!

Les

 

Without Star DAS or DRBIII I'm not sure you can check the status of the DAS (SKREEM) module. These car's are so finicky though, it could be anything. Good luck, if I think of anything that might help I'll let you know.

 

I'm in favor of a bad connection somewhere, the connection to the starter motor, the battery cables etc.
I say this because when you put in the new battery the problem occurred at once it seems.
Maybe broken/corroded wires inside the cable.
Bad connections at the main 50 amp fuse area.
Disconnecting the battery usually lets you have three goes at starting the car then nada, I think that would indicate a SKREEM problem.
If you have not played around with the key(s) then I would say forget them as being a problem.
My thoughts anyway.

 

BTW: The batteries in the key fobs have NOTHING to do with starting, they are for lock/unlock/panic only.
There is a little unpowered chip in the fob that is energized by the SKREEM via the ring around the lock

 

Disconnecting the battery doesn't change anything. I'm charging up the race battery. The brand new one started the car twice but that's not enough for me. It could be new/defective. So far I've checked all the connections in the engine compartment, took the styrofoam out of the trunk and inspected. I found some dirt and a crispy dead bug or two but no evidence of moisture of any kind at any time. Pulled out the TCU to make sure all the connections were good. (last thing I messed with 2 months ago) Tomorrow, time permitting, I'm getting under the car to check the fuel pump and then starter connections. Next to last thing I had apart was the pump. The starter motor connections because I've been hearing a slight rattle lately from somewhere up front that I haven't been able to locate. If all that is a bust I'll start calling the local dealerships and my help network to see who has a diagnostic ability for my car. Feeling sad.

Les

 

My time is a comin' as I haven't done either car yet...lol. Skreem module....Les??????

 

I'm sure you'll do this anyway, but before you get under the car for the starter, make sure you remove the negative battery cable. This way if you accidentally cross connect the cable to ground, you will not get hurt.

 

New RCM just crossed the threshold. Tomorrow afternoon will be one of relief or complete desperation. I'll let you know.

Les

 

Cars up and running again. As suspected, RCM took a dump. I'll solder all the joints now that I know I missed the culprit and keep my original as a spare.

Les