Clarify symptoms - RCM, CPS, SKREEM
1) Buying 'the kit' on eBay is the worst thing you can do.
2) Taking the car to a dealer is the second worst thing you can do.
If you do EITHER of those, you will NEVER get the car running. And most of us will ignore your posts asking for help, because, well, it's a waste of time.
If you want to get the car going, start a NEW thread here and le'ts talk about symptoms and what you have tried. If we can prove it's the SKREEM or ECM, there are companies that fix them, and just today Rob at NEEDSWINGS announced he has, once again, the ability to supply keys and SKREEMS. ROB is the guy you should spend money with, not dealers or eBay.
Ignore our advice at your financial risk.
2) Taking the car to a dealer is the second worst thing you can do.
If you do EITHER of those, you will NEVER get the car running. And most of us will ignore your posts asking for help, because, well, it's a waste of time.
If you want to get the car going, start a NEW thread here and le'ts talk about symptoms and what you have tried. If we can prove it's the SKREEM or ECM, there are companies that fix them, and just today Rob at NEEDSWINGS announced he has, once again, the ability to supply keys and SKREEMS. ROB is the guy you should spend money with, not dealers or eBay.
Ignore our advice at your financial risk.
Thank you very much. I'm sorry, I did not update. I forgot. I already fixed it by immo off on the ECU. I had to pay $495 for the service but car is running again. The guy gave me lifetime warranty on it. I tried the NEEDSWINGS but still not available. In any case, prefer the immo off solution because don't want this thing to happen again. I use this car work now and need it to start all the time.
Sounds like he had the dealer wave a wand over the computer and perform a reset for $495 & if that fixed it then fine. Sometimes you can just throw money at a problem.
That said any dealer who says the error code was "B1000" does not know how these cars need to be troubleshot. "B1000" is a generic OBD code that means you have to run a MB test on the specific module to find the underlying problem.
Turn the immobilizer off ? Either that or the solution was 7%.
That said any dealer who says the error code was "B1000" does not know how these cars need to be troubleshot. "B1000" is a generic OBD code that means you have to run a MB test on the specific module to find the underlying problem.
Turn the immobilizer off ? Either that or the solution was 7%.
Last edited by Padgett; Feb 25, 2020 at 09:26 AM.
Sounds like he had the dealer wave a wand over the computer and perform a reset for $495 & if that fixed it then fine. Sometimes you can just throw money at a problem.
That said any dealer who says the error code was "B1000" does not know how these cars need to be troubleshot. "B1000" is a generic OBD code that means you have to run a MB test on the specific module to find the underlying problem.
Turn the immobilizer off ? Either that or the solution was 7%.
That said any dealer who says the error code was "B1000" does not know how these cars need to be troubleshot. "B1000" is a generic OBD code that means you have to run a MB test on the specific module to find the underlying problem.
Turn the immobilizer off ? Either that or the solution was 7%.
2004-2008 Chrysler Crossfire ME2.8 Immobilizer Delete / Plug n' Drive
As far as the B1000 code goes it was in the immobilizer module. It said ignition lock control module, FBS (which is SKREEM in Mercedes as the mechanic said) defective, replace. Then, all the keys said irrevocably blocked. This I remember for sure as I wrote this down to research this later on line.
Regards
Hi guys,
I really need your help/ opinion as I have encountered a problem with my SRT6 that kind of falls within this thread discussion I think. Long story short, everything started with the key being occasionally blocked in the ignition so that it would not turn smoothly. So it was like this for a while then at some point the key got blocked fully and I got this sticky key issue. Using manual pdf from this forum, I resolved this problem by removing locking pin. It wasn’t as easy because the pin that releases the whole part from which I was supposed to take out locking pin was also frozen so ended up drilling it out. At the end, The problem was resolved and the key turned smoothly and the car started right away. I checked the key again, took it out, stopped the car, started it again and did so several times to make sure that the problem was resolved and everything worked fine.
Later this day I stopped in the parking lot of the grocery store. When I came back from the store and tried to start up my car, the engine started and stalled right away.
Second try, the engine was cranking but didn’t start again.
Third try it was fully silent and didn’t crank at all, but dashboard lights were always on.
At first I thought it was skreem, but even taking off battery and putting it back didn’t help to reset things. I tried to take off battery for different periods of time and when putting it back occasionally all lights were flashing, which made me think it was skreem. Yet every time I tried to start the car it didn’t even crank, just a bit of click under the hood and that’s all. I am very confused and not sure what to do. Everytime I tried to start the car only like one time out of fifty it might crank just a little and that’s it. Any ideas on how to fix this? Could be RCM, but I am not sure and would like to confirm with you. Also not sure if it is somehow connected to the initial problem that I had with sticky key or it was just unlucky circumstances on the same day when the sticky key was fixed. Really appreciate your help here guys.
I really need your help/ opinion as I have encountered a problem with my SRT6 that kind of falls within this thread discussion I think. Long story short, everything started with the key being occasionally blocked in the ignition so that it would not turn smoothly. So it was like this for a while then at some point the key got blocked fully and I got this sticky key issue. Using manual pdf from this forum, I resolved this problem by removing locking pin. It wasn’t as easy because the pin that releases the whole part from which I was supposed to take out locking pin was also frozen so ended up drilling it out. At the end, The problem was resolved and the key turned smoothly and the car started right away. I checked the key again, took it out, stopped the car, started it again and did so several times to make sure that the problem was resolved and everything worked fine.
Later this day I stopped in the parking lot of the grocery store. When I came back from the store and tried to start up my car, the engine started and stalled right away.
Second try, the engine was cranking but didn’t start again.
Third try it was fully silent and didn’t crank at all, but dashboard lights were always on.
At first I thought it was skreem, but even taking off battery and putting it back didn’t help to reset things. I tried to take off battery for different periods of time and when putting it back occasionally all lights were flashing, which made me think it was skreem. Yet every time I tried to start the car it didn’t even crank, just a bit of click under the hood and that’s all. I am very confused and not sure what to do. Everytime I tried to start the car only like one time out of fifty it might crank just a little and that’s it. Any ideas on how to fix this? Could be RCM, but I am not sure and would like to confirm with you. Also not sure if it is somehow connected to the initial problem that I had with sticky key or it was just unlucky circumstances on the same day when the sticky key was fixed. Really appreciate your help here guys.
Last edited by pizzaguy; Aug 25, 2021 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Edited to make it readable
I dont know what is wrong - but here is the definitive test:
Get in car.
Turn key to start, observe that it does not start, relax key back to "on".
Wait 45 seconds.
Does engine cooling fan spin up to warp speed? (You will hear it if it does.)
If so: RCM
If not: Clutch interlock switch, park interlock switch, bad pulse module, low battery, etc...
Get in car.
Turn key to start, observe that it does not start, relax key back to "on".
Wait 45 seconds.
Does engine cooling fan spin up to warp speed? (You will hear it if it does.)
If so: RCM
If not: Clutch interlock switch, park interlock switch, bad pulse module, low battery, etc...
I dont know what is wrong - but here is the definitive test:
Get in car.
Turn key to start, observe that it does not start, relax key back to "on".
Wait 45 seconds.
Does engine cooling fan spin up to warp speed? (You will hear it if it does.)
If so: RCM
If not: Clutch interlock switch, park interlock switch, bad pulse module, low battery, etc...
Get in car.
Turn key to start, observe that it does not start, relax key back to "on".
Wait 45 seconds.
Does engine cooling fan spin up to warp speed? (You will hear it if it does.)
If so: RCM
If not: Clutch interlock switch, park interlock switch, bad pulse module, low battery, etc...
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