I already changed the cps my rcm looks good what can it be?

 

More details needed.
What happens if you turn the key to the ON position and wait five seconds or so before turning to the start position?

 

Sometimes it will start the first time but not always

 

You need to define "not start" a lot more.
1 - can you turn the key
2 - what happens if you can
a - starter turns the engine but it won't start
b - nothing

 

Starter will go but it wont start the first time until the second time i turn the key

 

Did you answer this question ?

 

Yes sometimes it will start the first time but ver rare I still have to do it twice

 

Thats what my defective rcm would do. I would stop and leave car come back in a few minutes turn key an nothing , Set for couple minutes and would start first time. new rcm solved my problem .

 

I would start with the spark plugs it seems at idle it shakes a lil

 

You are not really answering the questions very well; one sentence answers just don't tell us a damn thing.

IF the car does this only after sitting a long (several hours) time, then:
Get in the car.
Turn the key all the way to on, but just don't go so far as "START", let it sit for 10 seconds.
THEN turn to START.

If it starts on the first try, then we have low fuel pressure due to a pressure bleed or leak while the car is sitting.

If it does it even after you just drove the car, then I'd wonder about a dirty MAF - and it COULD be that you bought an oddball CPS and the PTCM is not getting reliable data on crank position. Did you buy a BOSCH CPS or some oddball part somewhere? If it was not an original BOSCH, then order one now.

The rough idle implies the MAF or perhaps bad/dirty injectors. The plugs should be fine to at least 90,000 or more miles. My last car didn't get plugs and wires until 102,000 and ONLY because I was getting misfire and O2 codes - they all went away with plugs and wires. And, the car started and idled fine with the old plugs.

 

Ok yes after driving a Little the car gets hot and then I need to try two or more times but I've done it waiting for at least 5-10 sec and still wont start the first time. I will try to clean the maf should I remove it or can I do it just taking off the cover? Another thing I did buy the Bosch cps so I don't think it is going to be that. So should I worry more about changing the oil first instead of the plugs. I don't think the dealer did a good job. Let me know if I can clean the maf without removing it please. Lets talk about the fuel filter do you think it is clogged or something you guys think that could be the problem if it is not the cps or rcm.

 

How can I find out if it is a presure bleed it does help to wait 5 sec but not all the time.

 

You might be able to borrow, if not buy a fuel pressure tester gauge from a local auto parts. I am not sure what spec is on these, but from past experience, 30+ is good, under 15 is bad. Some older cars were in the 50PSI or higher range. When it is running and you go full throttle, does it feel weak on power?
Something like this
http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/FIT450.jpg
simple to use.

 

The fuel pressure should be between 55 PSI and 60 PSI .

 

Where do you plug it into excuse my ignorance

 

it sounds like the check valve in your stock fuel pump has gotten weak and you are losing fuel pressure when the car is off

 

Would I need to replace the fuel pump?

 

I checked the service manual and pressure is correct. And also the check valve is part of the fuel filter, so that is a double fix. And the pressure test port is on the fuel rail itself, that feeds all of the injectors.
Test it with engine running, then shut it down, it should hold pressure. I have seen cars with bad pumps run on pressure in the low teens, which was great, once discovered , it was obvious that was the issue. If a car tests at say 45-50, which is out of spec, but might not mean anything.
Look in service manual




FUEL DELIVERY 14 - 19




The pressure regulator is a mechanical device that is calibrated to maintain fuel system operating pressure of


between 3.7 - 4.2 bar (54 - 61 psi) at the fuel injectors.


Fuel is supplied to the fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator by the electric fuel pump directly.


The fuel pump assembly contains a check valve to maintain some fuel pressure in the system when the engine is


not operating.

 

Thx for the info I would need to find someone to help me on this I'm not that experienced on fuel related issues or testing

 

So if I borrow the fuel gauge the pressure should be from 54-61