The SRT is due to have the plates renewed and in AZ you must pass an OBD test to renew.
Took the car in Wednesday for testing and they said it couldn't be tested because the air system and the evaporative system were not ready. They advised letting the car idle for ten minutes, then drive a few miles at more than 50 mph and have it retested. Did that three times with complete cool downs in between took it back today for retest and got the same results. They said it needed to be driven more. I have driven it 60 miles. I checked for codes, got none and don't get anything about systems not being ready.
I'll keep driving it but if anybody has any suggestions I'm all ears. I have better things to do than sit in line at the emissions test facility.

 

I can't remember where I read it, but the requirements seemed more extensive than that. That is to say, I don't think 50 miles is going to do it. The idea here is that if you disconnect the battery and therefore zero the parameters, if they allowed you to try an emissions test right away, you could hide issue with the emissions system.

I simply cannot remember the requirements - but I think that miles is not the issue - it's the variety of driving and temperature cycles that does it, as the requirements to get the system to interrogate or 'use' all of the monitors go beyond simply driving the car, say, at 60mph for 50 miles or so.

 

Thanks Mark. That makes sense.

 

I had similar problems after a battery change, I had a lot of frustration at first like you, the testing station said I had to get the computer reset in a week or they would charge me the fee again.
Finally I drove the car for about 20 miles using country roads and suburban roads where the speed was a constant 50 mph for a total of ten miles and 30 mph for the rest of the time with stop snd go conditions. I returned on the freeway at 60 mph for about 10 miles and then mixed 50 and 30 mph speeds back to home.
I think the freeway miles with the other speeds in the one run did the trick as I had previously done the same speeds on separate trips. My OBD reader said I was good to go and the test went smoothly.

 

I use an OBDII reader on my vehicles, they show all the parameters and give you a visual indication (RED YELLOW or GREEN led) along with the codes generated (or no codes when it is ready to be tested showing a GREEN led). You will pass IF the tech disregards a 'drive cycle' reset (they know a failed RED light condition can be reset by OBDII type devices so they make sure the drive cycle YELLOW light is/are completed). I didn't know if a battery disconnect would reset a RED fail but I believe it will trigger the self-diagnostic for all the drive-cycle parameters. This will trigger the YELLOW light on OBD testing equipment, which IS an automatic fail for state emissions site testing equipment. The specific 'drive cycle' for this car MUST be completed (with no errors/codes) before that yellow light will reset to the green (passed) indicator. Any error, RED or YELLOW (self diagnostic mode-drive cycle self-tests in Service Manual Book 3 Group 25) will fail in the states that have emissions testing. That is what I have read, and so far all the states I know that test will fail the car until the 'drive cycle' is/are completed and 'green'. I see the drive tests parameters for the sub test(s) given, in book 3 (rear) group 25. A lot of reading, but you can associate the test to do by what your OBDII reader is telling you (mine has flashing 'DOT's" with letters in them showing the drive cycle test not yet finished. That flashing 'DOT' (or DOT's) needs to be referenced in the group 25 tests you need to do. Following that group 25 reset, the DOT that flashes should be 'steady', meaning it ran and passed. I have run other older vehicles 'drive cycles' before, they were a whole lot simpler, and when ran they reset all those 'DOTs' over its simple set driving course. This car has QUITE a complicated setup for resetting all those sensors...

 

I bought a 3 day permit for the car. It states the car may be driven only to the inspection station for the purpose of having the emissions tested. But I'll have to do a few drive cycles to try and get it ready. I have found 4 sets of instructions for the drive cycle between this forum, the MB forum and an internet search, of course they are all different.
Patience is key I guess.

 

Time seems the key in your case. If you have too much patience, time will run out. The service manual (and a good OBDII reader) will help you. If someone has a shortcut for the XF, I have not seen it. Until then, the service manual tells you how to reset (if no mechanical/electrical parts broken) those monitors. Group 25 in book 3.

 

My code reader always set a yellow code on the NA which meant 'code pending', I was worried the first time I had to have the car tested, it passed. I never questioned it, I just paid the fee and left.
The light has always been green after I reset the system on the SRT.
The 2004 year Service Manual has only two books. Later years had three books, the sections remained the same but I guess the additions to the models required more pages.
Comparing the 2004 and 2005 manuals the 2004 is easier to read with a more comprehensive Index in it I think.

 

Update. Driven the car a little over 300 miles, took driving tips from all the drive cycle articles I found. Let it idle for ten minutes twice before driving, I've driven steady speeds, varied speeds, fast, slow, decel to 20mph without brakes, I think I've used all the combos I've read. I have an elm code reader and an IPhone but that set up won't do emissions test. I ordered a blue driver reader yesterday, got it today and it does do smog tests. You get what you pay for. It shows the secondary air system ready, it wasn't on the two trips to the emissions station so I have gained that much but it still shows the evaporative system not ready. Guess I'll just keep driving. I'll let you all know when I get it to pass.

 

Since you haven't actually "failed" the test - you've just been told that two test parameters aren't "ready" - why not take the car back for the test now with just the one parameter not ready? Most states, including Arizona, with emissions programs allow one or two parameters that have not cycled to a ready state to result in a pass. For your model year (2001 or later), AZ allows one not-ready system to proceed with testing. The only way they might require all systems to be ready would be if you previously failed - with a MIL or actual codes being triggered. The link below also gives a generic drive cycle that is supposed to work for most vehicles.


OBD Monitors | myAZcar.com

 

Rob, thanks for the research. I'll give it another go today.

 

Well Rob the next drink is on me. Ran a smog test with the Blue Driver this morning and the only not ready was the evaporative system. Took it in for emissions test and it passed.
In all the digging around I did I missed the most important info. Thanks again.

 

Great news, I know it can be frustrating as I went through it on my 300 and then the Crossfire, the Crossfire was set easily for some reason. But I went through hell with the 300, go figure.

 

Move to Florida, we do not have any testing.

 

Just as well for old drivers who couldn't find their way to a testing station anyway because of cataracts. They most likely would start shooting if they failed anyway.

 

you're welcome. not sure when i'll be stopping in mesa, lol, but I do get out the desert paradise known as Yuma on occasion. wondering if it is possible your evap system isn't ready because of the high ambient temps? they say evap monitors don't like temps over 95 or so, likes to settle down at least 8 hours at night, and prefer somewhere between 1/4 and 3/4 tank of gas. chances are your SRT6 is just feeling a little stressed about the weather. maybe feed her a piece of prickly pear cactus candy? that stuff is delicious.

 

I wonder if ambient temp can be making this more difficult. Almost all the drive cycle instructions I was looking at called for a cold coolant temp below 90. It is 97 out right now and it's after eleven. But it's a dry heat.

 

I recently disconnected my battery and probably erased DTCs since then. I too have to go for an emissions test for my 2004. At first I thought I could use our new self-service kiosks at the MVA, but they only allow 2005 and newer vehicles due to security requirements starting with that model year. Once I found out that the kiosk (only $10 vs. the $14 they charge at the emissions inspection station) wouldn't work for my Crossfire I requested an extension on getting the test done, which I was granted. This was a good thing because it is unlikely that enough of the monitors were ready. Here is some empirical evidence on how my 9 State OBDII monitors have progressed from incomplete to OK following DTC erasure:

1. Misfire Monitor
2. Fuel System Monitor
3. Comprehensive Component Monitor

These first three checks were ready very quickly. They were OK almost immediately and certainly within the first 5 miles of driving.

4. Oxygen Sensor Monitor
5. Oxygen Sensor Heater

These two checks took a little over 40 miles to complete. I don't recall which one completed first, but they were both OK within a few miles of one another

6. EGR System Monitor

The EGR monitor took more than 50 miles to complete.

7. Secondary Air System

This monitor took around 60 miles until OK.

8. Catalyst Monitor

The catalyst tells me it's OK after 80 miles.

9. Evap System Monitor

This one is not satisfied yet after more than 85 miles not to mention quite a bit of time idling while parked. I'm not sure MD allows any incomplete test parameters, so I may be driving around in circles for a bit. Maybe a fuel fill up will help. The MD MVA website just informs you to "drive your car for a week" to ensure all the checks are complete. I'm afraid that for a Crossfire that this might mean to drive continuously for a week, LOL. There is irony in the fact that I am driving the car around emitting all these so-called greenhouse gases simply in an attempt to pass a test that is supposed to reduce greenhouse gases. I'm not actually using my Crossfire much to get from point A to point B so much anymore; it's more like cruising around in a big circle while watching for the next "OK".

 

To get the final systems reset I took my car on a 20 mile freeway ride and came back half through the city and half rural roads. That did it for me.

 

I did some mixed driving, then around 15 miles on the interstate, and then some more mixed driving. At this point I'm hopeful the Evap System Monitor will complete its test shortly after the next time I add fuel. Prior to starting to drive these recent 85 miles, I was likely already below the 35-85% fuel level that may be required to initiate the Evap monitor check. I'm curious to see if it checks out quickly once I add gas.