Not cranking
2004 crossfire, 115k miles auto , so came out tryed to start car , not cranking , have dash lights , fan spinning very fast after 20 sec , no radio , fob not working , searched forum, ..points to the rcm...brother has crossfire also .1)..removed his and tryed in my car , no change ,
2) checked battery voltage.... 12.6 volts ,
3) eliminated a bad ground by using jumper cable from negative battery terminal, to alternator bolt on engine ....no change .
4) checked all fuses ....all good .
5) disconnected battery for 10 mins ...and put neg and positive together....then reconnected ....no change
l do not have a code reader so don't know if any codes .
Its not cranking so its not the tps, symptoms not pointing to the SCREEM module
So what do l need to check next ? Need to get this thing running asap ... give me your input please .
2) checked battery voltage.... 12.6 volts ,
3) eliminated a bad ground by using jumper cable from negative battery terminal, to alternator bolt on engine ....no change .
4) checked all fuses ....all good .
5) disconnected battery for 10 mins ...and put neg and positive together....then reconnected ....no change
l do not have a code reader so don't know if any codes .
Its not cranking so its not the tps, symptoms not pointing to the SCREEM module
So what do l need to check next ? Need to get this thing running asap ... give me your input please .
Replace the RCM ? I DID TRY A KNOW WORKING ONE IN MY CAR AND THE SYMPTOMS WHERE THE SAME .....NO CRANK ETC ......ARE THE RCMS THE SAME IN BOTH AUTO AND MANUAL CARS ....BECAUSE THE UNIT I TRYED IS OUT OF A RUNNING MANUAL CAR.
RCMs are the same for manual/automatic and NA/SRT.
I would check the wires and pins that connect the RCM. Have heard of them cracking/breaking inside of the connectors.
Could be the Pulse Module.
Did your RCM work in your brother's car?
I would check the wires and pins that connect the RCM. Have heard of them cracking/breaking inside of the connectors.
Could be the Pulse Module.
Did your RCM work in your brother's car?
If it worked then my guess is that the RCM is fine.
.
So looks like l should look into the pulse module as my next culprit... where do l find it and what's test procedure, ? would this module be a common thing to fail ?
He did say in the first post that the fan ran fast after 20 seconds, that was my reasoning for recommending RCM replacement. If the module is good that shoots a hole in an assumed diagnostic.
Follow up question is the pulse module the same on auto and manual cars ? If so l could quickly do a swap and have an answer . Anyone know if its same part number ? Thank in advance ..
If I recall correctly the manual does not have the pulse module, I have had both manual and auto.
Latest update is all wires and connections on RCM fine so have eliminated that,next I installed my brothers PCM same part number and still no crank .Open to other things l can check or elimate , Would a issue like this throw a code ? I don't have scanner that reads this car but curious if l did would it be of any help.,don't want to buy one if its not gonna help me ....or this type of problem not gonna throw anything ... what are your thoughts ?
Last edited by White Thunder; Oct 1, 2021 at 02:58 PM.
It is always a good move to start at what is not working and work back instead of looking for the cause from many points going to the part that is not working. Keep working until you find power in this instance, the trouble is these cars are so tricky electronically it could be the last thing you would think of.
In this case with so many problems it would appear to point to a part that has a hand in controlling a lot of components, I can only think of one and that is the BCM. I will study the wiring to see if that is a possibility.
When was the last time you started the car successfully?
In this case with so many problems it would appear to point to a part that has a hand in controlling a lot of components, I can only think of one and that is the BCM. I will study the wiring to see if that is a possibility.
When was the last time you started the car successfully?
if not for the other problems ,fan spinning fast , fob not working and windows not operating l would be considering starter ,
It is always a good move to start at what is not working and work back instead of looking for the cause from many points going to the part that is not working. Keep working until you find power in this instance, the trouble is these cars are so tricky electronically it could be the last thing you would think of.
In this case with so many problems it would appear to point to a part that has a hand in controlling a lot of components, I can only think of one and that is the BCM. I will study the wiring to see if that is a possibility.
When was the last time you started the car successfully?
In this case with so many problems it would appear to point to a part that has a hand in controlling a lot of components, I can only think of one and that is the BCM. I will study the wiring to see if that is a possibility.
When was the last time you started the car successfully?
So an update .... checked terminals on the harness ends that plug into the Rcm .They are ok ..latest system check reveals no horn,radio,windows, seats,mirrors ( almost everything in car ) What works is headlights, marker and tail lights ,.When ignition to start all dash icons light up along with spoiler light and beep but no crank then high speed fan.Fob blinks lights but doesn't open doors. This one is a head scratcher.Like everyone else I luv the car but it constantly like to test my patience. As member mentioned I may have to try and work from what I know doesn't work and trace backwards.
Last edited by Valk; Oct 9, 2021 at 07:51 PM.
How is this car, corrosion-wise? Might be a long shot, but easy to check and free to fix. There are major grounding points just in front of the battery, near the high amperage fuse box, and then on the driver's side inner fender apron, in front of the shock tower, and next to the fan control module. You might loosen, and then re-tighten those two 10mm nuts. If you see rust, clean, of course.
Next, on advice of someone who works these quite a bit, avoid the temptation to ever unplug the ECU or SKREEM without disconnecting the battery, first. Otherwise, they can lose sync with each other, causing all kinds of starting problems.
Lastly, the idea about the starter may not be far fetched. Using a starter switch or other suitable method, you can verify that the starter works by jumping the solenoid to +12V.
You've got a tough problem, but almost assuredly, it will be a simple solution. Just a matter of finding it, of course.
Next, on advice of someone who works these quite a bit, avoid the temptation to ever unplug the ECU or SKREEM without disconnecting the battery, first. Otherwise, they can lose sync with each other, causing all kinds of starting problems.
Lastly, the idea about the starter may not be far fetched. Using a starter switch or other suitable method, you can verify that the starter works by jumping the solenoid to +12V.
You've got a tough problem, but almost assuredly, it will be a simple solution. Just a matter of finding it, of course.


