My car: 2004 Crossfire Coupe 6 speed Gray, 13,400 miles.

I am a new Crossfire owner and member. I purchased my Crossfire 4 months ago with 12,300 miles. First owner mostly garage kept, second owner drove once a week. I replaced the original tires and air filter. No modifications done.

Having difficulty with car running:

1. After 300 miles of driving time I was on the highway at 75mph and the engine stalls out. All the dash lights came on and the throttle was unresponsive. I was able to pull over and sat for a few minutes with the engine off. I was able to restart the car and drove to rest area. After 20 minutes restarting the car and went to auto parts store to check codes. The only code was an emissions code. Drove home, about 1 hour and no problems since.

2. Two weeks ago: Driving to get tire sensor replaced front driver's side and the engine stalled out and I lost power and throttle. I pushed off to side road and tried to restart but would stall out quickly. After waiting 5 minutes tried again but would not turn over and the fan was very loud. I had to have it towed back to my house.

After reading the forum and researching we cleaned the solder pins and resoldered them on the RCM. Replaced the CPS with Bosch part # 0 261 210 170. After install the engine fired up but would stall out after a few minutes. I found if I bring the rpms up to 1000 for a minute it will continue to run for a few minutes before stalling out again.
This morning I started the car and it ran at 600rpms for about 3 minutes and then engine stopped. Restarted again and it runs at 400rpms but the engine is running rough, not as smooth as it had been. The rpms would VERY slowly go down. It is almost like the car is "fighting" to keep running. The Check Engine light is now on, we will be purchasing a code reader as cannot get to the auto parts store.

Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated. I am grateful for this forum and the knowledge and help you give others!! This is my retirement car and I miss driving her!!

Thank you!!

 

Without a read of the codes, it is almost asinine to sit here and make guesses. You say you got a CPS with the right number, but is it a BOSCH or aftermarket? Aftermaket CPSs have cause horrible trouble. I get tired of people posting or preaching about the part number, personally, I don't give a damn about the part number - I want to know if it is a BOSCH or not.

How is the fuel pressure? You don't know, because NO ONE checks the fuel pressure - but you are describing what can be:
1/ Unstable or low fuel pressure (bad relay on RCM or bad pump or bad filter/regulator). (Somewhat likely)
2/ Flaky or off-brand CPS (if your code reader gives you a P0335 to 339, that is your problem). (Quite likely)
3/ Electrical disturbances due to a flaky alternator, weak battery or bad ground from block to chassis or chassis to battery. (Not likely but mabye....)
4/ Bad gas, mad/filthy MAF, rats nest in the intake, bad throttle body. (Iv'e seen one TB go bad and do this since 2010, had some odd codes show up AND the TB made a lot of noises, more so than the normal cycle on power up.)

Get that code reader, go buy a fuel pressure test kit and see what you have. The pressure test kit should cost $40-65, easy to use, like checking tire pressure. PRESSURE READING ONLY VALID WITH KEY ON AND ENGINE RUNNING OR STARTING UP. Once engine stalls, the ECU turns the pump off for safety reasons.

 

The CPS replacement is a Bosch part. Thank you for your reply, we will get the code reader and the fuel pressure test kit and go from there.

Again, Thank you!

 

You can't just solderer the pin's YOU NEED A NEW RCM then send yours to tj for 100% rebuild I know of many on this forum who has done the repair with no avail ,,, then sent their rck to TJ and,,,,,, fixed.... for mercedes this is called a K40 for crossfire's it's RCM
if that does not work text matt if he can not fix it over the phone he will come to you find matt below.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...air-shops.html jim

 

Thank you amx1397 for the information. Hoping today to test the fuel pressure and code reader to get more information. We have been discussing getting a new RCM, is there a company the forum recommends to purchase a new RCM from?

Again, thank you for your help it is greatly appreciated!

 

Here is a link to a new RCM. Take the old and send it tighed1 for repair. He will also make the "horny all the time" improvement. Keep it as a spare in the truck. You can buy the RCM for less at amazon. Check to be certain but FCPeuro offers warrente replacement for life on most of its parts sold. click for RCM

 

The above was a quick answer for a part you requested, but it is not a one stop fix for your problem. You have a really nice car with exceptionally low miles that probably has all the original hoses, pumps, filters, oil, coolant, battery etc.
It will take some time, but you need to refresh everything. If that battery is more than two years old, get another. Crossfire are very temperamental as to battery. Odyssey batteries have a good reputation. Get a new Mann HU718/5x and a decent 0w-40 or 5w-40 full synthetic oil, you should use Zerex G05 anti freeze, Pentosin CHF 11s power steering fluid and change the brake fluid. The owner manual is your friend for all the proper fluids. DO not substitute unless you do diligent research!
You are in the right place for help.
Click here for a wealth of info from our member onehundred80: index

 

look o n mb world or just google k40 or look on e bay and ask for rcu and k40 new u could go to mercedes dealer and buy a new one ask for k40 for 2002 slk 32 or 320
is there anyone close to you that would swap rcm for 5 minutes just to make sure yours is bad. i know there are members in north west fl. that could come by you just to help you out on this.

 

Thanks zip439. I was so excited about getting this beautiful car, now to get it in top shape! The car is definitely original and I do not think much has been replaced, though the battery is marked 02/2022. I appreciate the recommendations on the fluids as this will help me to order appropriately. The RCM is such an important piece to the car and I feel to purchase a new one and have the old as a spare is a good idea. The FCPeuro site does state all parts sold have lifetime warranty, so I definitely will be contacting them!

I have been reviewing onehundred80 index, as it has so much great information!! I really appreciate all the feedback as I want to get the car back on the road and drive for many years to come!!
Thank you all for taking your time to help the new Crossfire members and owners!!!

 

OBD2 shows P0410 Secondary Air Injection System and with Enhance OEM mode shows P2023 Intake manifold runner position, Sensor/Switch circuit, Intermittent Bank 2. I did go through the RCM and found 3 fuses with burns, replaced and seem to run a little smoother but still have the CEL and codes. I began reading the forum, checked the Blue check valve, looks good. I have an all day appointment tomorrow so will look at the relays on the RCM on Wednesday and see if I see any burnt contacts.

 

Checked the relays today and they looked good. No burnt contacts and all the solder joints looked good. I ran the car for about 10 minutes and no CEL but still running a little rough. The fuel pressure check was good. The car started two more times with no CEL and ran with no stalling, still running rough especially at idle (400rpms). Ran the OBDII this afternoon to recheck codes and it read, No Powertrain DTCs or Freeze Frame Data is presently stored in the vehicle's computer. On Chrysler OEM Enhanced mode it also stated no DTCs stored in the vehicle's computer. It did run a Powertrain Live Data. Still no CEL but the BAS and EPS lights are staying on, even when turning the wheel to synchronize.

I don't know if I should get a new RCM and ECM or find an experienced european car mechanic in my area and have them evaluate.

 

If the is idling at 400rpm, no wonder it's running rough. Did you get that from the tach (not accurate below 1000 or so) or from a live data reader?
Cold start idle is 1200 and warm idle is 750.

Has this car been running rough since you bought it or did the develop in the 1000 miles you've driven it? Rough idle and running can be caused by:

Flaky Crank sensor
Flaky Cam sensor
Bad gas
Injectors with gum or crap in them from bad or really old gas
Flaky Throttle body
Flaky MAF sensor
Bad plugs or coil pack (your car is too young for that, and you'd have misfire codes, at least you would if you ever "got on it" and opened the throttle for 15 seconds or so)
Rat's nest or other obstruction in the intake

 

Thanks for the reply Pizzaguy. The car has been running rough since this last episode when it quit running and I had it towed to my home, where we replaced the CPS with a BOSCH part. We put in new air filters after I purchased the car and today looked at the MAF, as felt this may be the problem. The area is clean. Will look at purchasing a new one to see if this cures the problem.

I was able to get a Live Data reading and it shows the Eng RPM at 703, I was looking at the tach. It shows the MAF at 0.42 (lb/min) which I have been researching to see if this is an acceptable reading but have not found it yet. I have always used premium gas from the same Shell station for years and it went through a half a tank before this occurred. I am trying to learn as much as I can so I my car will be around for a long time. I appreciate your feedback and information and I will continue to work on the car until she is running perfect!

 

We changed the air pump (Bosch part) but the MAP and Camshaft sensor were from China so sending those back. I looked through the index but could not find the part number for these two parts. Could you please direct me to the page or let me know the part numbers and suppliers for the 2004 Crossfire coupe.

With the new air pump still getting the P0410 and P2023 codes. The live data is showing better readings and hoping with the new Map and Cam will be the answer. I was reading the forum discussion on the driving cycles to allow the computer to "reset". Do I need to drive the car for a few cycles and see if the CEL light goes out? Of course, this will be after I change the sensors. It no longer stalls out since changing the CPS.

Thanks again for all your help, still working to get the car running without having to worry when heading out on the road.

 

Most of the parts on your car are from the Mercedes SLK 320 year 2003 which is a R170 platform. The parts can be found by going online to mercedes parts dealers or at FCP euro
MAF sensor MB part # 112 094 00 48 80
Crank Position Sensor MB part # 003 153 28 28, Bosch # 0 261 210 170
I would by the Bosch parts vice original Mercedes to save some money, but the numbers cross reference.

 

Sorry about that. You asked for the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. MB # 005 153 50 28.

 

Thank you Zip439!! After much searching I found the map and camshaft sensor. Now just waiting for them to come in and keeping my fingers crossed!!

Again thank you so much for your help It has been frustrating but I know it will all be worth it when I get it running.

 

Thank you , thank you everyone for your expert advice!! Zip439 thank you for letting me know my 2004 coupe is a 2003 SLK320, has made finding parts and information much easier. Since the car has low miles and had not been driven much and I was getting the P0410 code I changed sensors, MAF, MAP, Cam, Crank and air pump. The CEL is now gone!!!! I am still getting code but will do some drive cycles and see if it corrects itself.

Again thank you all so much for your patience and advise!! I am going out now to see how she drives

 

I had 3 days of driving with no CEL light and was running well. Took it in to have the tire sensor replaced, drivers front tire and after leaving the tire light came back on the dashboard. I went back and the computer found I need to go to dealership to have them scan with a special tool. They called dealer and only one Chrysler has this tool and 1 1/2 hours from me. On my way home the CEL came on and then almost home and all dashboard lights came on, lost acceleration and then could not get it started and had to be towed again. I have not had this happen since I changed the Crank position sensor. My question, since the new tire sensor has not been scanned by the dealer does the computer think something wrong and shuts down the car?. My husband wants me to sell the car as he is afraid this will happen again and I will get hurt. I don't want to do that yet and don't know if I need to replace the RCM or ECM? If I do have to sell it I will still need it to be in running order, so not sure where to go from here.

 

Were the CAM and Crank sensors Bosch?