Hello, I have tried to find a step by step on this forum as well as outside and cannot find one as far as how to remove and replace the fuel tank sender.
In the 70’s it was easy - you tapped a collar counterclockwise that held the sender to the tank, removed it, removed and replaced the sender and then the collar, but in looking at the sender on my 2005 roadster it does not appear to be that way.
Is there a procedural somewhere I am not seeing and if not then have any of you replaced one of these?

 

Here's a video for the mercedes slk replacing the fuel sending unit it should be the same as the Crossfire

 

Thank you. I will give it a go and let you know.
Great forum, maybe your link to the video should be on the support page somewhere. I’m sure others are looking as well. Thanks again.

 

This thread had been "stickied" which means it remains on the top section here in this section

Troubleshooting & Technical Questions & Modifications

 

A photo of the sending unit, no insulation blocking the view. The photo may be upside down, just locate the sender as yours is now.

 

Excellent, very helpful, Thanks.

 

Here's a suggestion. Before you remove the sending unit, use a marker to make a line on the fuel tank that lines up with that orange connector. Then you will know that the new one is aligned properly with the way it was removed.

 

Good morning,
Only 2 weeks into the CF world, I'm very grateful to the CF forum for some great advice and support. My latest issue was a non-functioning fuel gauge. As advised here I turned to YOUTUBE for the SLK fuel sending unit removal video and tackled the problem. Here's what I found:

1. Unlike the SLK, the CF fuel tank and sending unit can be accessed by simply removing the trunk floor mat and lifting the carpeted panel at the rear of the trunk.



2. Once exposed, the fuel sending unit is easily removed using a highly specialized tool to turn the device 1/4 turn counterclockwise and carefully lifting entire unit straight out.


3. Once removed, you can easily access the 2 wires on the underside of the unit and use an ohmmeter to test the resistance of the sending unit in various positions to ensure it is actually working - ohms should be between 0 - 250 as you move the float.



4. In my case, the good news is the sending unit is working properly. The bad news is the fuel gauge is still reading O!
5. Next step was to remove the left dash vent panel and (barely) reach into the back of the instrument cluster. Although the left connector was tight and appeared to be seated properly, I unlatched it and disconnected it. In the blind, I reinserted the connector into the instrument cluster, made certain it was seated, and relatched it. For whatever reason the CF gods smiled down on me and the fuel gauge is now working properly.

Again, thanks to you the CF community for your support, Mike

 

Thanks for the info, the instrument panel can be removed but it is a bear. Glad it worked out.

 

Great post and information!