I have a much loved 2008 Coupe, we did all the recommended preventative fixes, all of them in advance thanks to this forum, except the screem module nightmare. Thank god for that solution. Anyway, I have around 35,000 miles on my coupe, and my air conditioning instantly started blowing hot air. My friend said that since it happened so suddenly it might be a switch somewhere. Does anyone know anything about this or have a suggestion? I dread dragging my car to the dealership only to probably be told that it needs a new AC unit. if it ends up needing to be replaced, has anyone had recent experience with doing that? Thank you in advance for your experience and advice.

 

This should have been placed under Engine, Exhaust, Transmission etc. Read the description of the items covered in each forum.
You do not have to touch the SKREEM until it fails. So do not worry about this.
Also do not go to a dealer, they are only to happy to replace parts in perfect shape until they solve the problem, maybe.
Their solution just turn into maybe it’s this or maybe it’s that, broken or not you’ll pay for it.
The duo-valve is getting a signal to open fully, the reason should be known to someone here.

 

I know. I am sorry. I didn’t know where to post my question. It has been a while since I was on the site, and I live on the non- mechanical side of the brain. My hubby is the mechanical one. I am dealing with a hospitalized parent with a collapsed lung and work that keeps piling things on, so I am not taking the time I normally would to reorient myself to the site (or sleep). I know the people who help a lot here get frustrated when people ask the same question that has been answered everywhere or posted elsewhere. I don’t blame them. I didn’t mean to do that or be lazy. I’m just exhausted. I got in the car and got hot blasted with hot air on my way to work and thought “really, now?” and came here for help. If someone can move my post to the right spot or help me here I would really appreciate it.

 

. . . and I just realized my comment on the screem module might have been misunderstood. It was the only thing we fid not fix in advance. That was not a condemnation of there not being a ready made answer. I honestly don’t think anyone knew what to do until Emery and Wolfstalker helped.

 

The first thing you must do, is realize this is likely not a problem with the A/C at all. A/C issues are EXPENSIVE to fix, so do not make it one until you KNOW it is the A/C. If the coolant control valve (the duovalve) is fully open, then anytime the engine is warm, you will get warm air even if the A/C is fine. The duovalve's default is wide open. If any wiring or connector corrodes or the fuse blows, you get full time hot air, period. So, is the A/C broke or is the heater coming on all the damn time? Which are we chasing? THere is an easy way to tell.

How I would go about this:

1. Start car, turn both climate control temperature ***** "fully blue", that is, to the coldest setting. This commands the duovalve to close.
2. Warm car to operating temperature (needed to almost 9am on the temp gauge).
3. Turn fan to high and check - with A/C off and ***** "full blue", you should have air from the vents essentially at ambient temperature, maybe a little warm but NOT HOT. Check all four vents.
4. If two on one side are OK, but the two on the other side are hot, your Duovavle is stuck open on one side. (Easy fix)
5. If all four are blowing hot, the duovalve is open on both sides; this is not a stuck valve but either a failure in the controller or a "no power to the duovalve" issue. (Potentially an easy fix)
6. If things work and you get no really HOT air, then the duovalve is ok, go to 7).
7. Now, hit the A/C button:
   1. If the red light on the A/C button does not come one, you have a controller problem. Bring the car to Dallas, Texas and I can fix it.
   2. If the red light comes on and the temperature of the air does not drop, but you hear the A/C clutch engage, you need someone good with auto A/C systems (and a lot of money).
   3. If the red light comes on and the temperature of the air does not drop, and you dont hear the A/C clutch engage, you need someone good with auto A/C systems who also can troubleshoot to determine if it is a sensor that has died or if the controller recognizes a condition that the ECU is designed to refuse to run the A/C. This will cost as much or more than 7-2 and is very hard to get fixed because we live in a culture of deep ignorance of electronics. (Which is why I make six figures. )
      
      
      

I realize you came looking for an easier answer than the above, and if it is the duovalve the fix will likely be easy and kinda cheap. But you MUST determine if this is an A/C issue or if it is a problem with the heat coming on when you do not want it to. MOST of the time, the issue is the duovalve is opening when it should not. Very common and not hard to fix.

If this really is an A/C issue, well, A/C issues can be expensive and hard to get fixed. If the system lost charge because the pump died or the condenser sprung a leak, its pretty easy to replace the bad items and make things work again;EXPENSIVE but not all that hard. I STRONGLY suggest you determine what the actual issue is before you take the car anywhere. Duovalves are an easy DIY fix at home or at many small shops.

If you take the car to a CHyrsler dealer, (see my sigline, don't be a dumbass), it will never get fixed. If you can find an MB dealer or German Auto Car Shopt that will work on it, they will probably have it fixed in a day but it will be EXPENSIVE, even if all it is, is the duovalve.

 

What ever you do, do not take your car to a dealership. They don't have the trained people or equipment in the service department. There may be a few holdouts (a few members say they ran into one or two) but for the most part, they will only charge you big $ and then send you on your way with a lighter wallet. Stick around here in the forum, help will show up. Here is something you can check really easily. Turn on the A/C (dials on the two zones in the blue), and after the car has been running for about 5 minutes check the two duo-valves on the passenger side between the motor and the small black square (4 high current fuses inside if I remember). IF those hoses coming from the firewall are hot, you have a possible problem with sticky duo-valves. Check that, and come back to tell us what you found. One more thing you can see easily, when your A/C is set to be running, see if the clutch is engaging on the compressor down near the bottom of the front of the motor. You might have a freon leak. Good luck!


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My coupe blew hot early last summer. I could feel the heater hoses were hot on both sides of the valves. I disassembled the valves, cleaned them polished the metal parts with 0000 steel wool and reassembled. Worked fine, quick repair and didn’t buy any parts. There are rebuild kits available and if I were to do it again I would buy a kit.

 

Thank you very much. The help is much appreciated. We will try this.

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to post this. The help is much appreciated.

 

Location SRQ ??

 

Sarasota, Fl.

 

Hi, JSK,
do you have a part number and suggested retailer for the rebuild kit, by any chance?

 

Amazon,

 

I ‘think’ that the W chassis cars listed there have larger diameter cylinders than our cars. I hunted for older R chassis cars on eBay and FCP Euro but came up empty handed. I’ll try some searching later today.

 

blueinsrq
Click on the link below and go to post #7 and there are two attachments where the CLICK's are located and click on them.....
Regards,
Dennis
DTMenace

A/C stopped working. Where to start diagnosing? - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource

 

What worked for me was putting the system in heat mode. Windows up, temp high & Fan on high. In my 2007 Coupe, only the Driver's side blew hot air. After you do the above, let the car run for 15-20 minutes. Hopefully the heater Valves in the engine bay will unclog. Then switch your system back to full cool & see if the problem went away. I'll probably do this PM every year or 2 going forward.

 

It could be the A/C Heater Control Module. I have replace mine several times.

 

Heartfelt thanks to everyone who took the time to respond here and in the other area where I posted my request. Per one of the tests that somebody recommended we checked with the AC off and both temperature controls on cold, and the driver side was blowing hot air while the passenger side was blowing ambient air. My husband tapped on the top of the cylanoidsi on the duo valve and then turned on the AC and got cold air on both sides. Then we ordered the valve repair kit that another member here sent us a link to. Thank you so much to everyone for helping us make this an easy straightforward process when nothing around here seems easy. PS: I have to admit that my husband had to tell me exactly what to write because this really is not my side of the brain and he is very mechanical and we both appreciate you very much.

 

And thank YOU for coming back to tell us what you found. Most do not do this.

 

this the best forum ever!!!!!