Changing Rear Differential fluid SRT-6
Seems like the rear end holds 1.4 qts of 75W-85 fluid. I was going to add the 4 oz of LSD additive, then about 1.3 qts of fluid. I was going to drive, drain, fill and torque to specs. Anything special I should know???
Originally Posted by DntXme
Seems like the rear end holds 1.4 qts of 75W-85 fluid. I was going to add the 4 oz of LSD additive, then about 1.3 qts of fluid. I was going to drive, drain, fill and torque to specs. Anything special I should know???
There are two plugs in the rear diff... the upper one on the drivers (USA) side is the fill plug, the one the passenger side is the drain plug. You drain from the drain plug with both out... put the drain plug back, then fill from the fill plug opening until it's at the same level as the opening... put the fill plug back and you are done.
Hope that helps ... Cheers!
Hope that helps ... Cheers!
Originally Posted by DntXme
Strange that my dealer told me I needed to add the LSD Additive then..
But then Mercedes may have some reason to actually add LSD additive to
a differential that doesn't have LSD, I don't know.
I do know I have to use it in my 1 ton Chevy van every couple of years or the posi unit starts acting like a "Detroit Locker" everytime I try to make a sharp turn.
I believe it keeps the clutch plates from "locking up" when they're not supposed to.
As Sidez pointed out, LSD would be nice, at least for the SRT's. But I'd rather see some reasonably priced "performance" ring and pinions for the Crossfire. Gear ratios like 3:55, 3:73, or 3:91 would be excellent. (But I'm not holding my breath).
Last edited by +fireamx; Oct 7, 2007 at 07:24 PM.
there is no lsd for us crossfire owners or slk owners... only one guy has a kleemann one for $4,000 and even that can't be bought anymore...
According to the manual, the differential is filled for life. General consensus on some of the M-B specific forums I read is that the stuff really needs to be changed after 30k-50k miles.
One tip for doing the fluid: Remove the fill plug first! That way you're positive you can get it out before you pull the drain plug. Someone on another forum removed the drain plug first and then stripped-out the fill plug trying to get it out. He had no way to get oil back into the diff and had to have it towed to the shop.
Another tip: Make sure you clean the plugs thoroughly before you try to get them out as dirt & grime will get caked up inside them. You want maximum wrench-plug contact. If I remember correctly, it takes a 14mm allen wrench with an 18-24 inch pipe extension to break the torque on the plug.
One tip for doing the fluid: Remove the fill plug first! That way you're positive you can get it out before you pull the drain plug. Someone on another forum removed the drain plug first and then stripped-out the fill plug trying to get it out. He had no way to get oil back into the diff and had to have it towed to the shop.
Another tip: Make sure you clean the plugs thoroughly before you try to get them out as dirt & grime will get caked up inside them. You want maximum wrench-plug contact. If I remember correctly, it takes a 14mm allen wrench with an 18-24 inch pipe extension to break the torque on the plug.
Resurrecting old thread to talk about differential fluids.
The owner's manual says:
The service manual says:
The dealer wants over $35 per quart of the Mopar fluid. The local Benz dealer wants almost $39 per quart of its compliant liquid gold.
The only synthetic axle fluids I can find in my local auto parts stores are all 75W-90 or 75W-140. The Valvoline one meets the GL-5/MIL-2105-E, but it is 75W-90.
The only 80W-90 gear oils I can find are all non-synthetics.
Is searching for 80W-90 synthetic (to show that I complied with warranty requirements) a fools errand? Should I just buck up, or does someone know where I can get a suitable fluid in the US?
The owner's manual says:
Only use synthetic SAE 75W-85 axle lubricant that meets MB 231.1. Reduced axle durability may result if an unapproved product is used.
The service manual says:
Use synthetic SAE 75W-85 axle lubricant that meets MB 231.1, such as Mopar 05126035AA. An SAE 80W90 GL-5/MIL-2015-E Synthetic Axle Lubricant may be substituted. Reduced axle durability may result if an unnaproved product is used.
The only synthetic axle fluids I can find in my local auto parts stores are all 75W-90 or 75W-140. The Valvoline one meets the GL-5/MIL-2105-E, but it is 75W-90.
The only 80W-90 gear oils I can find are all non-synthetics.
Is searching for 80W-90 synthetic (to show that I complied with warranty requirements) a fools errand? Should I just buck up, or does someone know where I can get a suitable fluid in the US?
Last edited by Display_Name; Jun 2, 2008 at 06:21 AM.
Originally Posted by Display_Name
Resurrecting old thread to talk about differential fluids.
The owner's manual says:
The service manual says:
The dealer wants over $35 per quart of the Mopar fluid. The local Benz dealer wants almost $39 per quart of its compliant liquid gold.
The only synthetic axle fluids I can find in my local auto parts stores are all 75W-90 or 75W-140. The Valvoline one meets the GL-5/MIL-2105-E, but it is 75W-90.
The only 80W-90 gear oils I can find are all non-synthetics.
Is searching for 80W-90 synthetic (to show that I complied with warranty requirements) a fools errand? Should I just buck up, or does someone know where I can get a suitable fluid in the US?
The owner's manual says:
The service manual says:
The dealer wants over $35 per quart of the Mopar fluid. The local Benz dealer wants almost $39 per quart of its compliant liquid gold.
The only synthetic axle fluids I can find in my local auto parts stores are all 75W-90 or 75W-140. The Valvoline one meets the GL-5/MIL-2105-E, but it is 75W-90.
The only 80W-90 gear oils I can find are all non-synthetics.
Is searching for 80W-90 synthetic (to show that I complied with warranty requirements) a fools errand? Should I just buck up, or does someone know where I can get a suitable fluid in the US?
I used Mercedes-Benz Universal Hypoid Gear Oil when I put my LSD in the 6. I don't know how much it costs though as I got mine for free.
Originally Posted by Moparrbust
I used Mercedes-Benz Universal Hypoid Gear Oil when I put my LSD in the 6. I don't know how much it costs though as I got mine for free.
Originally Posted by Maxwell
ok, I thought you found a real one with clutches.
how do you like the Phantom grip anyways, it's hard to beat for the price..
how do you like the Phantom grip anyways, it's hard to beat for the price..
Sorry to disappoint by not installing a "real one". LOL
I like it............it makes both wheels turn in the same direction at the same time and also makes the rearend wag like a puppy when you just get home from work.
I'm hearing people knock on the Phantom Grip, but I'm still trying to figure how its function is any different from a posi. Is the problem with the PG the fact that it works more like a locker and less like an LSD? Or is there more to it? Also, how much would you expect a shop to charge for install?
Originally Posted by bobs
According to the manual, the differential is filled for life. General consensus on some of the M-B specific forums I read is that the stuff really needs to be changed after 30k-50k miles.
One tip for doing the fluid: Remove the fill plug first! That way you're positive you can get it out before you pull the drain plug. Someone on another forum removed the drain plug first and then stripped-out the fill plug trying to get it out. He had no way to get oil back into the diff and had to have it towed to the shop.
Another tip: Make sure you clean the plugs thoroughly before you try to get them out as dirt & grime will get caked up inside them. You want maximum wrench-plug contact. If I remember correctly, it takes a 14mm allen wrench with an 18-24 inch pipe extension to break the torque on the plug.
One tip for doing the fluid: Remove the fill plug first! That way you're positive you can get it out before you pull the drain plug. Someone on another forum removed the drain plug first and then stripped-out the fill plug trying to get it out. He had no way to get oil back into the diff and had to have it towed to the shop.
Another tip: Make sure you clean the plugs thoroughly before you try to get them out as dirt & grime will get caked up inside them. You want maximum wrench-plug contact. If I remember correctly, it takes a 14mm allen wrench with an 18-24 inch pipe extension to break the torque on the plug.
Originally Posted by James1549


