Is it possible that there is too much solder on one of the points you soldered and is touching the next soldered point?

 

additional info, I didn't realize the TCM kept separate Pcodes. I have a P0715 in the TCM. I erase and it comes back as soon as I can read the DTC's again.

 

 

Is it possible I caused this state by repairing the RCM? It was not in limp mode before I did the repair.

 

Hi,
I had the joints resoldered, and replaced the fuel pump relay, that worked for some time but now after 2 weeks I wanted to start her up and it is back to no cranking again.
I checked the relays, they all click on 12v applied.

So I put key to the right, dash comes on, then turn all the way right to start and nothing, not even a click, yes the fan starts spinning.
I tried to measure voltage to the pump relay that is on the most left connector, but got nothing.
Traction relay comes on clicking, but engine relay I think not. Fuses seem fine. Relay measures some 60-75 ohms.
Any chance the problem lies before the RCM? Some wire issue? Or would this also fit the security block issue.

 

Engine control relay needs to be replaced.
If you would like info on me repairing it, email tighed1@hotmail.com

 

Hmm, thats USA I'm in Europe.
How do you come to this conclusion?
I applied 12vdc to the relay and it seemed fine clicking and all.
I see you recommend to manually push the pump relay to check, can this be an option for the engine relay while the traction relay is on?
It would help a lot if there is some actual electronics schematics that would explain the wiring.

I am trying to source a replacement , but am hestitant as i do not understand what could still be wrong with the RCM as testing seems fine.
tnx.

 

I think that is to prove that the relay is at fault if there is power to operate the relay at the relay.

 

Wire diag tells me that it may indeed explain why air and fuel do not click as they are depending on the engine relay. I will try to debug.

 

Fuel relay will only be on for 2 seconds prior to the car starting. That's why you read no voltage.
Manually close the engine relay then see if she starts.
BTW I've refurbished many RCMs from your side of the pond.

 

So today I had some brief time to check again.
When the key is turned right to on (not to ignition, as that needs a 2nd person, but when I do this only Traction Control relay closes )
and I press the engine relay, the fuel pump relay closes as well, I heard some pumping but no cranking or ignition.

I did check the relay, it closes on 12 vdc applied to the coil. The relay coil connects fine to Connector E2 and D2 "FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT" (FISO) via a diode that measures 0.560 VDC fwd voltage and to B5 GROUND.

I tried to refresh the battery because voltage seemed low, some 12.2 VDC and afterwards 12.8 VDC.

I am guessing the FISO doesn't come directly from the dash Ign. Switch but from the ECU?

What more can I check? Any more parameters that need to be fulfilled before Ign. really asserts FISO?

 

Well, it turns out I did hear clicking when applying 12 to the engine relay, but it was the traction relay , the enige relay was really faulty.

All hail to tighed1!

Sorry I was so dumb to doubt

I replaced it and she is spinning again!

 

We are experiencing the same thing. Sure enough our RCM was burnt at the 3 spots. We did a solder job on it and .... nothing. So we ordered a brand new one online, and she started right up!!!

...and promptly died again. We pulled out the new RCM and sure enough, it was burnt out again. So what could be causing us to burn these out? And forgive my ignorance, but I also see mention of an "engine control relay" - is that a different component than the RCM?

 

Th engine control relay is one of those within the RCM.
I have no idea why the new RCM failed right away - anyone else have any idea ?

 

 

I give up. I removed the image, it seems however I rename the correct one, it always turns out to be the wrong one,

 

How about some pictures?

 

Yesterday I was driving my 04 Crossfire and all the dash lights came on and the car died. The car will crank forever and not start. Is this a typical symptom of the Mystery No Start? Or is the Mystery No Start a No Cranking Issue?

 

I have gone through the same issues. Two potential causes. First, the RCM. It takes 5 minutes to remove it and check the solder joints for issues or just send for repair ($30 by DJ) or buy a new one from Rock Auto for $124.

The other cause can be the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor (CPS). Easy to replacr and about $25 at Rock Auto.

After fixing my RCM, still had the issue, so bought the CPS.

Good luck.

 

Mystery no start is a no crank issue.