STILL fixing them!
As mentioned. Email tighed1@hotmail.com.

Here's the latest info.

"If you would like me to refurbish your RCM...

Send your RCM and $30 (cash, money order, check) to:

DJ TIGHE
3601 Pinnacle Ct
Sierra Vista, AZ 85650

I'll inspect, redo bad solder joints, perform the Me So Horny mod (horn works w/o key) and replace the Air Pump relay.
I will then test your RCM in one of my cars. Then I mail back the RCM to you via USPS Priority Mail (2-3 day).
In most cases, I get the RCM back in the mail the day after I receive it so yer looking at about a week total.

If you want the package insured please include an additional $5. FYI, In the few years I have been doing this only 3 have been lost in the mail.
If you ship to me via a method that requires a signature it will extend your waiting time as I will have to go into town to sign for the package.
Leave all fuses and plastic cover on RCM.
Let me know what symptoms the car had.
Please email your address to me also.

Or for $50 I will replace all relays (except horn - it never goes bad). You should NEVER have an RCM problem then.
NOTE: If the 3 middle RCM relays are a lot darker in color than the outer 2 relays, I would suggest getting this service performed.
They (relays) have been HOT and are more prone to failing (my experience).


tighed1@hotmail.com

DJ"

 

My Crossfire has been stored since 2012. I start it once every couple years. This year it turned over but I have no fuel pressure and I hear a loud hum somewhere by the MAF. Couldn't tell exactly where.

I opened the box where this module is located and it wreaks of mouse **** and there's mouse feces everywhere and a chewed up wire going to the "C" connector on this module. The connector looks bad... Have yet to open the nasty smelling box.

This yellow/red wire appears to go to the Engine Control Relay. I'm windering if the mouse **** corroded the connection...

 

Alright, looks like that "C" wire is for traction control, etc. However, this does not look good. It must be the issue.

 

Send it to DJ, prior post, for repair or purchase a used on on Ebay.

 

Oops. Double post on Android. Dang phone.

 

I can repair it. Depending on the the extent of damage to the PCB.

 

I wouldn't worry about fixing anything until you figure out how to kee mice out of it 😁👍

 

WONDERING? Are you trying to be funny? You car has rodent damage.
There is nothing to wonder about here.

 

I wouldn't even insure it now, the car has no value to anyone who finds out there is rodent damage (other than to a goof who does not realize....) If he got off with no more damage than that, he's the luckiest person Iv'e ever met.

There will certainly be wiring harness damage.

Go ahead, ask me how I know. ANSWER: I've helped with this kind of thing before. I need not guess, I already know.
I store my SE, been storing it since 2015, start it every three weeks and run it around the lot or a few miles (because I want it to run).
My rule: ONE SIGN of rodent intrusion in the garage and car would be moved in 24 hours, to a better location. The $134.95 a month (and today, $125 a month) has always been worth it - I store in a garage that is 100% sure to not have rodents running around in it.

If the garage is not clean (so you can see the obvious tracks) and sealed off and kept CLEAN and stocked with rodent killing supplies - you are asking for it.
When I see a car in a barn, I think "worthless piece of ****", because I KNOW.

I grew up on a farm. The Allis-Chalmers got eaten twice that I remember - but since the harness is all exposed, even I as a 14 year old could fix that.

 

I'm not too concerned about it. I was planning on ripping out the MB 3.2L and swapping in an LSx. The car doesn't have many miles but I have little interest in the underpowered 3.2L. It's also devalued to the extent of "don't care". It needs to perform on the track.

 

How are you going to get the car running at all?

You have mice damage in the "computer box". Unless you left the cover off, that means that mice came in thru the ventilation duct that leads to the "computer box' from the HVAC chamber. You most likely have chewed wiring thruout the vehicle. The problem here is that you have chewed wiring in places that will be very hard to get at, think of the challenge you will have in diagnostics. Perhaps you have not tried to do extensive diagnostic on electronic systems - I spent 30 years doing that. I know what you are in for.

This is NOT the first time we have seen this and I can tell you , you have a parts car now.

 

Hi all

My 2004 roadster yesterday failed to start. The battery is fine. just nothing when I turn the key to the starter position. Everything else electrical seems to work fine.

Looking through the forum I found this great post, and as my fan does start up after a number of seconds, increasing to hurricane speed! I removed the relay module. Nothing obviously wrong here and all soldered joints look good and shiny, no sign or a dry joint. None the less I went through and re-soldered as suggested.

Refitted the module but no change!

removed the module again and checked all relays do work and buzzed out the open and closed contacts were as expected!

Any ideas guys? I'm at a loss as to what to look at next?

Mark

 

You say the battery is fine - have you had it checked or is it just fully charged?

Also - with the fan running at high speed, I think that is an indication that one of the relays has failed, can't remember which one.

 

mmmm! Well I'd been out in her yesterday with the roof down and it was when I went out in the evening to put the roof up that I noticed the fan coming on.

I checked each relay while the module was out and they all operate ( 9v PP3 across the coils!)

I'll pop the battery on charge overnight and try again in the morning!

I'll pull the module again and doublecheck the relays and contacts again!

 

Mine did the same thing. Drove it to an event and after it sat for about 4 hours I went to start it and only got the lights on the dash and no crank. I did not have the runaway fan though. I sent my RCM to DJ Tighe for a complete rebuild and that didn't fix it. I have charged my battery to 100% and had the charger still on it for extra power and still got nothing. I haven't had time to take my battery to a shop to have it tested - the battery is 7 years old and the car is only driven about 3500 miles per year. So, hopefully it's just the battery with mine.

 

Just tried the ODB reader; plugged it in and it powers up fine, but fails to connect to the car.......

Could this be a more serious problem? ECU?

 

It won't connect because your engine control relay's output from the RCM is missing, this means that the ECM is not powering up - so it can't talk to your OBD reader.
THis is also why the fan is running at high speed, the FCM isn't hearing from the ECM so it is in emergency mode.

Send your RCM to DJ for fixing, or order a new one.

 

OK thanks for that!

Now can I find a circuit diagram of the RCM and identify which relay is which.......

I can ship it to DJ, but that's going to take some time as I'm in the UK. AND I really should be able to fix this!

 

The service manual is available here (in one of the technical sections) on the forum, once you find it, look in the "wiring" chapter.
There is no circuit board layout diagram but the schematic of the RCM is pretty simple.

THe relays (I THINK this is right) are shown below.

 

Thanks

I've removed the RCM and retested it. I checked the relay operation by applying a PP3 9v battery to the coils and for each, the relay seemed to work, till i noticed that when applying a voltage across the engine control relay, the Traction control operated, and not the Engine control! Th sound of the wrong relay operating fooled me!

So I've unsoldered the relay and confirmed it's NFG!

I'm unable to locate a supplier in the UK and US/China suppliers have large minimum order quantities.

Does anyone have a relay they would be prepared to ship to me in the UK? I can pay by PayPal.

Thanks