Hi,

I bought the rotex gold brake pads recently and I made a search on the forum and I think I am not seraching the right thing. I want to repplace my brake pads on my car but I can.t find a DIY with pictures.... Any help would be appreciated!


Thanks

 

As you probably know, the service manual has excellent drawings and can be found here:

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

I've not had to do any brake work on my Crossfire, so I can't tell you if there is much difference between it and an E320, but there is a pdf for an E320 brakes here:

DIY Brakes, with pictures... - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

 

thanks for the info! i did my brakes but i think the brake sensor is ruined cause i probably waited too long to change le brakes.... doy ou know where i could find this sensor?

 

Make sure you take a good look at the rotors. See my post under breakes, etc. Check your Rotors. If you need rotors or need to get them resurfaced this may or may not be a DIY job depending on your expertise, tools and space to work.

 

no my rotors are not to be redone or replaced! thanks for the tip anyways

 

You'll find a PDF in the second link that Magneticred posted. It looks exactly like the brake job I just did. Just be sure you've got the right torx bits. I stripped the one holding the brake sensor cable to the caliper. You don't actually need to remove this screw/bolt. I did because I was replacing the brake lines too. I'm not sure which car you have but the SRT has two piston's rather than just one, but they come off the same way.

 

thanks for the help!

 

here is my diy:

ROTEX BRAKE PAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

Tools Required:

flathead screw driver
needle nose pliers
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
7 mm allen wrench
7 mm allen socket
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench

Steps to follow:

1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)

2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.

3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well)

3.) Use flat screw driver to push piston clip to compressed position. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston.

4.) Remove front caliper clip with screw driver or pliers.

5.) Remove sensors gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.

6.) Remove black plastic caps on backside of caliper.

7.) Use 7 mm allen socket and/or 7 mm allen wrench to remove both long allen bolts.

8.) Remove caliper from rotor (do not allow caliper to hang by brake lines). Set caliper on top of rotor, securely.

9.) Remove factory brake pads. Install inbound "Rotex" pad into caliper (no clip is used for piston). Install outboard pad onto rotor bracket housing.

10.) Side caliper over rotor. Secure caliper by inserting caliper allen bolts into the rear of caliper. Make sure bolts are in place correctly. Then tighten 7 mm allen bolts firmly. (*Note: Caliper will seem semi-loose, but this is normal).

11.) Reinstall sensor wire.

12.) Reinstall plastic caps on backside of caliper.

13.) Reinstall front caliper clip.

14.) Reinstall wheel and tire. Hand tighten lug nuts with 17mm socket. The tighten securely with lug wrench. Lower vehicle with floor jack and retighten lug nuts when vehicle is on the pavement. Torque lugs to 81 ft lbs.

15.) Start car and apply brake pedal repeatedly until pressure has built up. Drive as normal.

also recommended - use anti-squeal lube on the pad backing & brake grease on the metal contact points??

 

This is awesome! When i do mine, i will do a pictured version of it so we can store it for future references.

 

When are you going to do yours? Will you be doing the rears as well? Ihave my pads but haven't had a chance to put them on yet. I'll have a lot of Wheel well and rim cleaning to do on mine.

 

Lately the car feels like it is not stopping as quick as it should so i am thinking sometimes soon. with in the next couple of weeks. I will probably only get the fronts done.

 

OK, muscle I might do my front and backs over the next weekend or two. Maybe I'll give the ole nikon a wirl with some photos unless you beat me to it.

 

It's super easy to do the rear's two pins, a plate and out they come. Don't even have to take the rotor off.

Also if you haven't bought your pads, consider using Akebono's Euro pads, I love mine.

 

Are the rear pads really small? https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post468992

 

probably 2.5" X 2.5" for the rear. I've got an SRT though

 

medium_3073810886_ac4ed904ba_o.jpgCheapest or most expensive brake job......depending on what happens in the next 10k miles....

 

I decided to do my brakes tonight using these instructions. I did the back brakes first and they were pretty easy. I got to step 7 on the fronts, and realized that I did not have a 7MM Allen socket, so I ran out and picked up a set. Get back, and quickly find out that the bolt is not a hex bolt, but a torx. Well, I have the female torx sockets but not the male. I will need to go out tomorrow and get a set. Grrrr.... Anyway, does anyone know what the torx size is for these bolts so I make sure I get the right size? Thanks

EDIT: I think I found it. I believe it is a T40. Looks like the NA has a 7MM, and the SRT has the T40. Another trip out in the morning. LOL

 

Finished the brakes today. The torx bolts ended up being T45. Everything else in Andrew's instructions work on the SRT. Andrew, you might want to put a stipulation in your step 7 to give the NA and SRT sizes. Thanks

 

Hey Guys-
Doing mine in the next week or two with the Akebono Euros...for my SRT-6. I assume these same directions then?

 

Yep, see my post #18. You need a T45 Torx socket (male).