Rear Window Fix
Has anyone experienced problems with the rear window defroster after reattaching the rear window? I noticed mine is only partially working now after using gorilla glue for the rear window fix. The rear window is holding fine from August with no leaks or separation but the rear window defroster is now only partially working. Any Suggestions?
Originally Posted by GeorgeC1031
Has anyone experienced problems with the rear window defroster after reattaching the rear window? I noticed mine is only partially working now after using gorilla glue for the rear window fix. The rear window is holding fine from August with no leaks or separation but the rear window defroster is now only partially working. Any Suggestions?
Yes, get the new top while they will. I've been in the auto biz for 30 years and I know a good deal when I see one. As stated, you fix anytime in the future with a newer top. Sometimes good looks is not the real condition of the fabric. Go new, they will not offer again.
WTF!!! 250 bucks my dealer told me 1600 bucks for a new top!!
Originally Posted by XFireCrazy
I bought the 3M Window Weld and I am gonna go give it a try right now (if I can avoid playing online poker instead). I live in Dallas and the rear window of my 05' roadster starting to come off about a month ago. It is only about 1/4 of the way peeled off on the drivers side from what I can tell.
My dealer said that they could replace the entire top for $250, but I figure I will give this a try first. If it does not hold, then I can have them replace it later.
It is currently 65 degrees here in Dallas, so hopefully that is not too cold for this repair.
My dealer said that they could replace the entire top for $250, but I figure I will give this a try first. If it does not hold, then I can have them replace it later.
It is currently 65 degrees here in Dallas, so hopefully that is not too cold for this repair.
ok so im seeing i'm not the only one who has lost there back window. I have an 05 crossfire roadster, but my back window came out all the way, top, sides and bottom. AM i SOL on fixing it now, cuz i dont have 1600 bucks to get a new top. I just used epoxy and some cheap plastic from a jeep window to cover the hole for now. But it still leaks so yeah please help me
The Gorilla Glue I used last summer to reattach the window is still holding fine. I have had the roof down several times and no problems so far other than the clip for the rear window defroster came off. i recently reattached the clip with a kit I bought on-line. I can't test the connection at this time but the clip adherred to the window.
Originally Posted by cisa
Had to redo it after 1 year. But, it still beats the $1,500 the dealer wanted to replace the entire top. However, for $250 get a new top!

Now where did I put it?
BTW - All of the original fix is still holding tight!
Originally Posted by cisa
Go for it, mine is still holding fine! They wanted $1,500 for a new top in south Florida. My $10 and some of my time was a GREAT investment for me. It will hold. Mine was only hanging from the top. Both sides and the bottom were undone.
Originally Posted by TerryR
Mine too, hoping to repair on my return from vacation in Britain. Most suppliers of our convertable tops require you to remove your complete existing top and send to them (excluding window) for them to fit new canvas and New Glass window. Has anyone removed the complete top. ???? I have recently come across someone selling a New Top which would then have to be fitted to the frame, but also don't know how easy/hard this would be to do.?? with being on vacation can't even investigate yet.
Easy/Hard ???? Surely someone has done it, and can advise me. I am prepared to replace my top, but don't know how involved it will get. Suppliers for NEW tops give a lifetime guarantee on the rear window adhesion, but removing the top in order to ship frame (less window).
Now returned from vacation, I will investigate myself this weekend, but any assistance/advise would be appreciated.
Originally Posted by TerryR
I STILL have not had a response from any Forum member, to say they have had the experience of removing and/or replacing the Convertable top.
Easy/Hard ???? Surely someone has done it, and can advise me. I am prepared to replace my top, but don't know how involved it will get. Suppliers for NEW tops give a lifetime guarantee on the rear window adhesion, but removing the top in order to ship frame (less window).
Now returned from vacation, I will investigate myself this weekend, but any assistance/advise would be appreciated.
Easy/Hard ???? Surely someone has done it, and can advise me. I am prepared to replace my top, but don't know how involved it will get. Suppliers for NEW tops give a lifetime guarantee on the rear window adhesion, but removing the top in order to ship frame (less window).
Now returned from vacation, I will investigate myself this weekend, but any assistance/advise would be appreciated.
Take plenty of pictures!
Originally Posted by TerryR
I STILL have not had a response from any Forum member, to say they have had the experience of removing and/or replacing the Convertable top.
Easy/Hard ???? Surely someone has done it, and can advise me. I am prepared to replace my top, but don't know how involved it will get. Suppliers for NEW tops give a lifetime guarantee on the rear window adhesion, but removing the top in order to ship frame (less window).
Now returned from vacation, I will investigate myself this weekend, but any assistance/advise would be appreciated.
Easy/Hard ???? Surely someone has done it, and can advise me. I am prepared to replace my top, but don't know how involved it will get. Suppliers for NEW tops give a lifetime guarantee on the rear window adhesion, but removing the top in order to ship frame (less window).
Now returned from vacation, I will investigate myself this weekend, but any assistance/advise would be appreciated.
Good luck. I'm in the middle of the procedure myself and will advise of success, if any.
Mods, you may want to delete this inconclusive thread, or redirect to the sticky.
Originally Posted by TerryR
I STILL have not had a response from any Forum member, to say they have had the experience of removing and/or replacing the Convertable top.
Easy/Hard ???? Surely someone has done it, and can advise me. I am prepared to replace my top, but don't know how involved it will get. Suppliers for NEW tops give a lifetime guarantee on the rear window adhesion, but removing the top in order to ship frame (less window).
Now returned from vacation, I will investigate myself this weekend, but any assistance/advise would be appreciated.
Easy/Hard ???? Surely someone has done it, and can advise me. I am prepared to replace my top, but don't know how involved it will get. Suppliers for NEW tops give a lifetime guarantee on the rear window adhesion, but removing the top in order to ship frame (less window).
Now returned from vacation, I will investigate myself this weekend, but any assistance/advise would be appreciated.
Don't know how easy/hard this is going to be.??
Someone MUST have done this. I am on the verge of getting my top recovered in Burgundy(OR maybe Blue)??, which I think will be a great contrast to my Alabaster Roadster. Waiting for canvas samples.
Hoping to start the removal process next weekend.
Originally Posted by TerryR
Come on Guys, STILL waiting for someone to respond to my request for information on the procedure for removing/refitting the convertable top.
Don't know how easy/hard this is going to be.??
Someone MUST have done this. I am on the verge of getting my top recovered in Burgundy(OR maybe Blue)??, which I think will be a great contrast to my Alabaster Roadster. Waiting for canvas samples.
Hoping to start the removal process next weekend.
Don't know how easy/hard this is going to be.??
Someone MUST have done this. I am on the verge of getting my top recovered in Burgundy(OR maybe Blue)??, which I think will be a great contrast to my Alabaster Roadster. Waiting for canvas samples.
Hoping to start the removal process next weekend.
If you know this to be inaccurate, tell us more.
Originally Posted by Kane
To my knowledge, there is only one manufacturer doing Crossfire tops (link provided above) and they require that the original top be sent to them so that they can fit it into the OEM head and rails. And if you look at the existing rail details, this makes sense. I doubt seriously that you will find a replacement top that is provided simply as a piece of canvas.
If you know this to be inaccurate, tell us more.
If you know this to be inaccurate, tell us more.
I guessed some Forum Member has done this before. I don't know how involved disconnection/reconnection of the hydraulics & Electrics would be, it MAY just be straightforward, but unlikely on these cars. I will no doubt, find out this weekend whan I come to remove it. I will keep all informed, as to my progress, with pictures where necessary.
TerryR;
I could come help on Sat. morning, but you would have to come pick me up. Somehow, I had it in my head that there are two connection points on each side, but the big thing is to disconect the sensor /electrical points, probably a harness or plug. I don't think the hydralics have to come off as I think the part that does that stays with the car. I'll go look at mine to see if I can see anything.
I could come help on Sat. morning, but you would have to come pick me up. Somehow, I had it in my head that there are two connection points on each side, but the big thing is to disconect the sensor /electrical points, probably a harness or plug. I don't think the hydralics have to come off as I think the part that does that stays with the car. I'll go look at mine to see if I can see anything.
Originally Posted by dtinker
TerryR;
I could come help on Sat. morning, but you would have to come pick me up. Somehow, I had it in my head that there are two connection points on each side, but the big thing is to disconect the sensor /electrical points, probably a harness or plug. I don't think the hydralics have to come off as I think the part that does that stays with the car. I'll go look at mine to see if I can see anything.
I could come help on Sat. morning, but you would have to come pick me up. Somehow, I had it in my head that there are two connection points on each side, but the big thing is to disconect the sensor /electrical points, probably a harness or plug. I don't think the hydralics have to come off as I think the part that does that stays with the car. I'll go look at mine to see if I can see anything.
9 am would be fine.
I looked at my car, looks like two screw mount connections on each side, one large ram on drivers side and one small ram on each side. you may be able to disconnect the rams and leave attached to the car and disconnect just the top mechanicals. Not sure until we start taking it apart. Looks like someone in the forum would have done this before. A little guideance would go a long way toward success.
I went and looked again, there is another ram on the driver's side that goes toward the rear and bottom of trunk floor. looks like it controls the cables that go to the little flap(wings) that come down with the cover. may be able to disconnect and not remove from car. Looks like the sensors just plug in with a connector.
I looked at my car, looks like two screw mount connections on each side, one large ram on drivers side and one small ram on each side. you may be able to disconnect the rams and leave attached to the car and disconnect just the top mechanicals. Not sure until we start taking it apart. Looks like someone in the forum would have done this before. A little guideance would go a long way toward success.
I went and looked again, there is another ram on the driver's side that goes toward the rear and bottom of trunk floor. looks like it controls the cables that go to the little flap(wings) that come down with the cover. may be able to disconnect and not remove from car. Looks like the sensors just plug in with a connector.
Last edited by dtinker; Jul 11, 2011 at 02:30 PM.


