My 2006 Crossfire now refuses to crank. It has been hinted that either the powertrain control module has wiped its codes or it needs replacing at a cost of £2156 for the part only plus VAT plus labour which must be half of the value of the car. She has only done 30,000 miles I am gutted because I love her so much. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Noel

 

When you turn the key, does the dashboard lights come on? If they do- it could possibly be the Relay Control Module. Do a search on this forum for "Mystery No Start"

 

I just had to replace the PCM in my 2008 Crossfire. Car would start and run fine but the check engine light was on. It was $2,000 American for the part. Car only has 20,000 miles.

 

SINGERRON, fyi, ask Chrysler for a $2,000 refund.
The warranty booklet indicates that the Engine Control Module is warranted for 8 years or 80,000 miles whichever comes first, it's considered part of the Federal Emissions regulations. Powertrain Control Module is the same device. Time starts from the date the vehicle was placed in service. Don't let the dealer flim flam you saying the RCM is the covered part ($170), It's simply contains relays that direct power to the fuel pump, air injector pump, horn etc. The Powertrain Control Module is a huge part of the emission requirement, and Chrysler prefers you pay for it. Check here for EPA information that says the manufacturer is on the hook for repairs when the check engine light comes on. http://www.epa.gov/obd/pubs/420f09048.pdf

 

We need more information here. Is the transmission auto or manual (if you look in the service manual, page 8W-10-9 you will see why I ask)?

Do the dash lights (EAS, etc.) come on when you turn the key to start?

Does the dome light dim any when the key is turned from "off/lock" to "run" and then to "start"?

If the car is a manual, will the engine start if you roll the vehicle and release the clutch?

Were there any problems or warning signs from the car leading up to this failure? Was anything not working or acting up?

Are you saying that the engine cranks but does not start? Or are you saying that it won't even crank over? (I know these last two questions are irritating, but you'd be surprised at how many people confuse "no crank" and "no start")

 

Thank you so much to everyone for your comments. The car is a 2006 Coupe automatic. Yes it did occasionally demonstrate similar symptoms but I put it down to low battery. All the lights come on when I try to start and indeed there is nothing wrong with the battery which I have had checked 2 or 3 times independently. You turn the key and all the control lights come on but when turn to start there is nothing. When the lights come on there is a single bleep. If the ignition is left on the engine fan comes onto full speed. There is power going into the PCM but nothing coming out. I am told that either the codes have been wiped or the PCM is defective. I have tried switching on at least 5 times and leaving 10 seconds but this has no effect at all. She was working fine when I last used her but as I say I have had this problem intermittently over 12 months mostly in Winter. I will look at the page in the manual as indicated and reply. Also I dont think that the warranty applied in UK unfortunately because I took up what warranties applied directly with Chysler UK shortly after buying the vehicle and I was told 3 years or 60,000 miles. Thank you everyone for your continued help.

 

Well, our federal laws about the powertrain warranty would not apply over there, sorry!

I just re-read your posts - you do not mention the age of the battery, has it been replaced? The white "Varta" batteries would be original, and that's simply too old.

If the dome light dims a LOT when you go from "on" to "start", it indicates a weak battery or corroded terminal or loose connection somewhere. If the dome light does NOT dim at all, read on....

From what I can tell, if it is an automatic, the contact closure in the key switch commands the PCM to then command the pulse module to signal the starter relay to close, turning the engine over. BUT FIRST, the engine control relay on the Relay Control Module must close so that power to fuses 2 and 3 is present, fuse 3 feeds the PCM. If there is no power to the PCM on this line, you go nowhere.

Pull the RCM and have someone resolder ALL points on the RCM. You are looking for broken solder joints around the relay pins - REHEAT AND REFLOW EVERY RELAY PIN ON THE BOARD and put it back in and see what happens. The RCM is in the box next to the battery with the BCM and PCM, and is the module with all the fuses on it. (See page 8W -10 -21 to see the current path I am talking about)

PCM failures can happen, but are rare. RCM failures happen almost every day, we hear about them all the time on this forum.

 

Pizza is right on....1st, a battery can check ok, but it's cranking amps may not be up to snuff. Varta's especially have this problem as they age. 2nd, all seem the to have the same solder joints that need to be re-soldered. You really need to see them thru a magnifying glass to appreciate the poor solder joints.

 

Cranking amps go down on all batteries as they age, Vartas are extremely good batteries no matter their age. From what I have seen here on the forum and personally with the two Vartas I have had they will outlast most batteries you can buy. I have a Varta coming up to its ninth birthday and I keep it as a spare and fully charged. It was working fine when I removed it last spring when I thought it too old to be reliable.

 

I have just been told that my beautiful Baby Blue (2006 Coupe Limited) needs a Pcm. I have also learned today that this part needs to be built and programmed, something about a"VIN Specific Part"? And, It will not be ready to install for 4 months! She is not running bad, nor does she cut off or stall as I have read in other threads, but merely has her check engine light on. Since I absolute LOVE my little car (64,000 miles), I took her in to the certified Chrysler Crossfire mechanic, at a reputable dealer...but I never expected this. I was advised that she is putting out too many volts (whatever that means, I'm a very un-mechanically inclined female) ... and this part will be $2,400. I guess she will be parked until the part comes in .... SO SAD!!

 

So you believe everything you are told? Then I have some property for sale in the Everglades.
What are the symptoms? I expect you can save money by just informing us of the symptoms.
The first lesson you have to learn is that there are no reputable dealers, mechanics, salesmen in fact anyone who works in a dealership and earns a commision on the parts that they foist on people that are often not needed.
To keep their jobs they are expected to up sell, that is to sell something that is probably not needed right there and then but possibly in the future. For example, you go in for an oil change and find out that the brakes need to be done, maybe they do and maybe they don't but the pressure is on you to get it done and not get a second opinion.
What is causing the red light? Did they tell you specifically or just some jargon that could mean anything. My suggestion is to go to an auto parts store that reads the codes that causes the red light to come on, they do this for nothing. Get the code and come back here and tell us what it is. You'll probably be very surprised.

 

Dealers, dealers, dealers. What you gonna do ?
I'll tell ya, listen to what 180 said above and get the code(s) read by Autozone or Advance.
Most likely something simple since you say it's running OK, like a vacuum leak or burnt air pump relay contacts.
The chances that you need a new PTCM with the car running OK are about 1 in 100,000.

 

If "it is putting out too many volts", it needs a new alternator - Under $300 for the part and $100 labor should do it.

If the car is running, it does NOT need a PCM/PTCM, etc. Get the codes read at Advanced Auto or AutoZone Auto Parts and report back here.

180 nailed it, every word he typed is right but he's being too polite about dealers - wanna hear MY version?

 

I agree with comments above. My 2007 Coupe has the original Varta battery still installed. I don't put that many miles on the car each year - the proof being that car has only 18k on the ODO. But I do place a charger on the battery every 6-9 months to keep it fully charged. And I check the electrolyte level in the cells 1x/year. From my perspective, the Varta may be the best battery I've come across in years.

 

Hello everyone, my crossfire limited 2005 manual has an issue to the cooling fan, it never stop with car turned on.
We changed the cooling fan control module, but we couldn't fix it.
I changed the mechanic, this new one tried to replace the pcm a1121535379 code and everything seems works great.
But I need to buy a new one because he tried with a pcm of another car.
It makes sense this is the issue?
I don't know this new mechanic well so if I can trust him, what I know is all the time I wasted, it is something like 1 year with the car parked in different workshops.
I'm in Italy, thanks in advance for your help

 

If the fan turns off when you turn off the car, why aren't you driving it?

 

With the engine running, does the fan ALWAYS spin?
Does it spin FAST or slow?
When the fan is running, is any yellow indicator light on your instrument panel on?

Like ZERACER, I wonder why you do not drive it anyway - having the fan running all the time is not a BIG problem, but it is one you should try to fix - but I would not let that stop me from driving the car.

 

Thanks for the answer, the fan spin really fast and if I remember well no yellow indicator on the panel.
I don't like to drive a car with problems, maybe it could be worst and something else could be damaged.
Try to change the Pcm it could be the final solution?

 

The fast spinning fan sounds like the RCM. It is plug and play.

 

Already replaced with no good result.
Is the correct code of the Pcm a112 153 53 79?
With this code it seems to work fine.