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Heres a pic a bit further back to give you some oercpective.
Congratulations for a nice
and clean underbody, you should put a drop of oil on the nuts and bolts to prevent more rust on them, it makes it look even better.
I like to keep mine clean but access is a problem.
Thanks onehundred80 (Dave, right?). Yes, when I cleaned her up, I did put some dielectric grease on all that surface rusting hardware. Yeh, the plastic sheathing I was referring to was to the 40" battery to bell housing cable. Both cables have a (feels like) thin rubberized coating, like shrink wrap on them.
I've been fortunate to have a 4 post lift in my attached garage to really make the cleanup and maintenance of my cars a little (make that a lot!!��) easier. Those days of bench pressing a tranny for a clutch change laying on my back on a concrete floor are, as Ernie Harwell says...."loooong gone". When you look at the tools you acquire over time, this 4 post lift is the ticket and NOT that expensive. This one ran me unassembled, delivered to a local shop, $2,250.00 which included aluminum ramps, jack bridge, 3 drip trays. I chose the stock 110 voltage. Just plug in to any 20 amp circuit. It's rated to lift 7,000 lbs. Took my sons and I about 5 hours to assemble.
Here's a couple of pics of her with my last ride.
Regards,
Last edited by CROSSFIRERUSH; 09-10-2018 at 04:14 PM.
Thanks onehundred80 (Dave, right?). Yes, when I cleaned her up, I did put some dielectric grease on all that surface rusting hardware. Yeh, the plastic sheathing I was referring to was to the 40" battery to bell housing cable. Both cables have a (feels like) thin rubberized coating, like shrink wrap on them.
I've been fortunate to have a 4 post lift in my attached garage to really make the cleanup and maintenance of my cars a little (make that a lot!!��) easier. Those days of bench pressing a tranny for a clutch change laying on my back on a concrete floor are, as Ernie Harwell says...."loooong gone". When you look at the tools you acquire over time, this 4 post lift is the ticket and NOT that expensive. This one ran me unassembled, delivered to a local shop, $2,250.00 which included aluminum ramps, jack bridge, 3 drip trays. I chose the stock 110 voltage. Just plug in to any 20 amp circuit. It's rated to lift 7,000 lbs. Took my sons and I about 5 hours to assemble.
Floor to ceiling in my garage is 115". So, this is a standard small 2 car attached garage. What makes this dooable is changing the radius of the roll up garage door tracks, raising the existing tracks to within 7" from the ceiling and replacing the garage door center motor with a Liftmaster 8500 sidewinder motor. This unit is very compact and is installed on the front wall at one end where your steel bar with spring is. The motor spins that steel shaft raising your door. I had an overhead garage door outfit alter my tracks and replace and install this Liftmaster for $700.00 (parts and labor). The unit when operating is super quiet.
Obviously you can stack 2 cars as long as the car on top is a smaller one. The Crossfire has a low silhouette. Cars slightly larger will work, just back them onto the lift allowing you to go higher to clear the garage door when the door is open.
So, for approximately $3,000.00 you could have a 3 car garage out of a 2 1/2 car garage.
For me, because of the smallness of my garage, I use the open side for a workbench and tool box roll-arounds. Over time I've bought a roll around chair, an oil drain container on wheels and a tranny jack. LED trouble lights round out my tools when I'm under the car.
Just looking to do this as per James1549's very detailed instructions. Does anyone have the torque spec for the bell housing bolt show? The service manual describes 'transmission to engine block retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.)' in section 21-347, can anyone confirm this is correct?
My manual says :
3. Position the transmission in the vehicle on the engine block dowels.
4. Install the transmission retaining bolts and the ground cable. Tighten the bolts to 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.).
My manual says :
3. Position the transmission in the vehicle on the engine block dowels.
4. Install the transmission retaining bolts and the ground cable. Tighten the bolts to 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.).
Works for me.
What this forum really really needs is a navigation app to find all the direct routes to threads. This should be quite easy as there are no toll routes, scenic routes or national monuments etc to bypass. Google works very well, but it is not direct enough if you are already on the forum, this makes it kinda indirect.
Last edited by onehundred80; 09-13-2019 at 06:15 PM.
thank you sir. eventually got my caliper and measured the screw. with that i combed the stores in this ranch until found some 6 and 8mm and bought them. the size was 6.
hard to believe that canada is on metric but are scarce.
now i just have to wait for the cables and do the instal. 1 more thing not to worry.
thanks again.
Re: My fix for a ground cable to the engine
Re: My fix for a ground cable to the engine
