So, what was the reason?
ground wire?

 

I have yet to look at it as it means taking it all apart, Nav unit and sleeve out etc.
The switch works OK, the power comes out of the BCM and it worked last year. The rocker switch just grounds the circuit so I’m guessing that is the fault somehow. I’ll look at it whenever I get around to painting it.

 

A photo of the project awaiting a final filling, finish sanding and a paint job.
This setup uses the pre-outs and the OEM amp. I will be using this set up instead of the one from last year with the switches in the armrest which kept the modified ashtray module.

 

It’s takes time but you’ve done a great job

Twice

 

Thanks I tried to do a good job, this one took me longer even though there is less work in it. Fitting the skirt that follows the outline of the shifter bezel took some time though. Making it a one piece item and keeping it looking like stock as much as possible is what I wanted.
Now I have to finally touch up the filling on this one and get them both painted. As the sleeve is hung from the centre console I can have the unit working while I sort the painting out.
I had toyed with the idea of making one using an iPad but my son talked me out of it. Just as well I guess.
My best work was on the armrest bezel with the inset buttons for the first setup, a lot of work there, routing, filing, fitting and filling.
I think our setups are at least near the top of the list of the mods done for the double din mod.

 

I agree with you Dave, this version and UrbanE’s get my vote for the nicest double dins.

 

I changed the Emergency Flasher unit in the bank of switches, which also includes the lock switch and it still did not work the door locks.
I tested the earthing wire and it completes a circuit when using power from the constant live wire going to the switches.
All the other ways to operate the switches work.
The wires to and from the switch have been lengthened with heavier gauge wire would that affect the resistance and hence the voltage to the pump, it did work like this last year though for some time. I am not sure when it quit working.
Anyone else have any ideas, please?

 

I know you’ve thought of this but are you using connectors or soldering the connections. Sometimes the crimp connectors come loose and it could become an intermittent problem

 

I've had my roadster 8+ years now, and I can count one one hand the number of times I used that lock button.
If it were me, I'd say f*** it and drive on ......

 

You are correct, I hardly ever use mine, last year I wanted to use it as my wife was standing by the door waiting to get it, I said f*** it and drove on. She was not impressed.
Seriously I like things to work, that switch and the drivers bum warmer does not work, I really never use the seat heater but it bugs me anyway.
One more look at the lock switch and I will forget about it for a while.
The switch puts out two voltages and the earth is good, I hate to be beaten by this.

 

• Quote:

  Originally Posted by UrbanE

  I know you’ve thought of this but are you using connectors or soldering the connections. Sometimes the crimp connectors come loose and it could become an intermittent problem

I am using both crimp and solder connections but the fault is constant. The wire is a ground from the BCM and the switch is in the ground wire, in one position the power goes to ground freely and in the other position the voltage is passed through a resistor and less voltage passes through to ground. Professor ala_xfire explained the resistor function. He also said I should solder all wires, I think I will eliminate the crimp connectors in these two wires and get the actual voltage from the switch, one will be the nominal 12 volt but I’ll find the other.
Edit
I soldered the crimped connections and no change.

 

Crap
That really blows.
I don’t have any other ideas

 

Trouble is I do not know if the switch was working when I took it apart this time, it was working last year.

 

I wired up the new head unit using the RCA pin outs, in all the time I have had a Crossfire I hardly heard or felt the base speakers behind the seats. Now I can get a punch in the kidneys on demand.
I hope have no clue on how to set up the equalizer, guess I’ll have to figure it out. I just have a straight line across the middle of the graph.
I still have to buck up the nerve to pick a paint to finish the face plate with.

 

On any radio I get with the equalizer feature, I do :
---------x---------
-------xxx-------
-----xxxxx-----
---xxxxxxx---
-xxxxxxxxx-

midrange is like, where it's at man.

 

This is the mod I had to do to the ashtray to replace the spring and retainer that I had to cut off to clear the underside of the Double Din unit.
It consists of a magnetic cabinet latch that pushes the ashtray open enough to grab it and pull it out by hand, it also holds the ashtray in place when closed.
The steel washer that the magnet attracts is levelled with epoxy and screwed in position. There is a piece of Gorilla tape stuck to the magnet to reduce the strong magnetic attraction to the washer.
The ABS plastic base is attached to the ashtray using acetone which gave the strongest bond to the parts.

This mod is best described in this YouTube video made by a member turboomni08, CLICK

 

GENIUS! If it is not the best solution to the dreaded ashtray damage I don't know what is (besides buying a new one (or) used one that looks and works. BUT we all know what that would cost huh?).


.

 

I should add that I did not ruin a working ashtray, I purchased a broken one and cut it up. I had an excellent working ashtray I had purchased and resold it when I got the broken one.
I am now modifying the bezel around the gear shifter by adding the cigarette lighter and the passenger seat belt warning light. The ash tray pops out about 3/8th” when push in as the OEM setup, it is then opened by hand. This was described earlier.
This bezel is made from two parts which are ultrasonically welded together, my hope was that I could use two different size hole cutters to make the shape required to hold the lighter. I used a 1 5/16" and a 1" diameter cutter to form the pocket. I hoped that in that area the parts would not be welded together and I found that they were not, in fact, there was a slight gap between them. This made it much easier and it worked out great. I had to open up the 1" hole to about 1 1/16" diameter by hand. The lighter snaps into place snugly.
Now to do the passenger seat belt light. I would have preferred them to be on the opposite side to what they are but the lighter socket would not fit on the driver side of the bezel.
The lighter was not centered correctly in its pocket by about .010" so it appeared to be .020" out that has been corrected.
I am waiting for the printed bezels to be perfected at the moment the way I have done it appears to be the best method, we shall see.
The passenger seat belt warning light is a necessity I think and is not on the printed ones I have seen.








The Mk1 version prior tp paintng.



The Mk2 version prior to painting.





This photo shows the holders for the cigarette lighter socket and the passenger seat belt warning light, the lighter socket snaps in as does the warning light but I will attach a small clamp to the warning light holder so that the light cannot be pushed in accidentally.

 

Post #118 updated with text and photos.
I am not too sure that the silver paint has to be a near perfect match to the OEM colour.
The same part view from a slightly different angle looked a completely different shade of silver than when viewed straight on.
I am proud of the recessed button bezel in version #1 as it turned out very nice, the ash tray mod works well. I had it in the car for one summer and version #2 in the car this past summer. I like the ash tray/coin holder as well but missed the little cubby in place of the cup holder.
I’ll make the final decision when they are painted and clear coated.
Decisions, decisions.
I thought of making a version using an iPad with navigation but was advised not to,
Let’s face it how hard can it be?

 

Nice work!! The saga continues!!