Help help help
Someone will probably ball me out for starting a new thread on something so thoroughly discussed. I have read all the pertinent posts on this subject. My SRT6 roadster had the classic Skreem symptoms.
+0 +0 00 reboot +0 +0 00. I had the components diagnosed by SOS Diagnostics.
ECU- OK
SKREEM- OK
KEY FOBS- OK
RCM- A NEW ONE (It wasn't indicated but I had a new one so what the hell)
IG. TRANSPONDER RING-NEW ONE.
SECURITY FUSE-GOOD
FUSE SOCKET- HAS JUICE
SKREEM IS GETTING JUICE
I'm presently trying to get the computers housing off to inspect a suspect wire underneath. If that's not it I'll rent a DRB III (I don't want to mess with a wiTech emulator) Can anyone think of something I may have missed?
+0 +0 00 reboot +0 +0 00. I had the components diagnosed by SOS Diagnostics.
ECU- OK
SKREEM- OK
KEY FOBS- OK
RCM- A NEW ONE (It wasn't indicated but I had a new one so what the hell)
IG. TRANSPONDER RING-NEW ONE.
SECURITY FUSE-GOOD
FUSE SOCKET- HAS JUICE
SKREEM IS GETTING JUICE
I'm presently trying to get the computers housing off to inspect a suspect wire underneath. If that's not it I'll rent a DRB III (I don't want to mess with a wiTech emulator) Can anyone think of something I may have missed?
You could also take a CAN-Device and look if the ECU ask for a code from the skreem (101#4144000000000000) and if the skreem answers (something like this: 111#03A0CFB400000000) and if the ECU accepts the code (101#4148000000000000). The CAN-Bus should be wired on the OBDII plug for a SRT.
Look at standard pinout of the OBDII or take bypass wires from the skreem module (the white 2 wire plug).
This CAN-Bus works with 500 kBaud.
Look at standard pinout of the OBDII or take bypass wires from the skreem module (the white 2 wire plug).
This CAN-Bus works with 500 kBaud.
That's a lot easier than tearing any farther into the dash. May not be a problem either, but it is easy and quick to check.
You could also take a CAN-Device and look if the ECU ask for a code from the skreem (101#4144000000000000) and if the skreem answers (something like this: 111#03A0CFB400000000) and if the ECU accepts the code (101#4148000000000000). The CAN-Bus should be wired on the OBDII plug for a SRT.
Look at standard pinout of the OBDII or take bypass wires from the skreem module (the white 2 wire plug).
This CAN-Bus works with 500 kBaud.
Look at standard pinout of the OBDII or take bypass wires from the skreem module (the white 2 wire plug).
This CAN-Bus works with 500 kBaud.
I quote from the Chrysler Crossfire Student Reference Book: "The Vehicle Theft Alarm system sounds an alarm, flashes the exterior lamps AND disables the ignition system when the alarm is triggered". There just might be a chance that the Central Locking Pump/Security System Module located in the rear of the vehicle is messing with you. It is easy to check if water has accumulated in the rear by putting a small slit in the rubber plug under the car on the passenger side and with a slight twist see if any water comes out. The plug is aft of the axle. It's easy and fast just to check. Might try pulling fuse nine too, can't hurt. Placing the key in the ignition system and turning it to unlock position disarms the system IF it is working correctly.
That's a lot easier than tearing any farther into the dash. May not be a problem either, but it is easy and quick to check.
That's a lot easier than tearing any farther into the dash. May not be a problem either, but it is easy and quick to check.
If memory serves me correctly the pump (CLP/SSM) in the trunk has nothing to do with the car starting.
Vipers approach is the way to go. I do not have the tools to check the CAN Bus comms
I'm inclined to agree with you, but the Student Reference Book specifically says the vehicles theft alarm system "disables the ignition system". Information in the Chrysler service manuals has not proven to be accurate 100% of the time, but the slit in the rubber plug is quick and easy and will not hurt anything to check. The towing tilt sensor is also back there. It is possible that may be damaged from water. If the FOB locks/unlocks the doors and sets the theft alarm (blinking red light in the middle of the Tow-Away Alarm switch) and no water is found. Forget about that approach and move on. If there is water back there I would rectify the situation to be certain it isn't inhibiting the ignition.
Vipers approach is the way to go. I do not have the tools to check the CAN Bus comms
Vipers approach is the way to go. I do not have the tools to check the CAN Bus comms
Look for water but it will not affect the ignition and starting.
I believe the pump/security module can and does at times prevent the engine from starting. The sirens batteries under the cowl goes bad, messes up the circuit board will feed back into the system in some way and prevent the car from starting as it is part of the Security System . The SKREEM is the Sentry Key Remote Electronic Entry Module. The CLP/SSM is the Security System Module which is the brain of the Anti Theft Alarm.
Why is it that people have removed fuse 9 and got their cars running again after Skreem symptoms; because the siren (bad batteries ruin the circuit board) had never been disconnected, fed back into the anti theft system, which locked out the start sequence. The anti theft system is more than just the SKREEM.
PS The CLP/SSM also activates the rear defroster from BCM input.
Last edited by zip439; May 27, 2020 at 12:49 AM.
In a car that will start, simply putting the key to the on position, or unlocking a door with the key will disarm the anti theft system. Max's car will not start; it is not operating properly.
I suggest two things;
1. Slit a rubber plug in the aft trunk area; Takes maybe ten minutes
2. Disconnect the cars battery, pull fuse 9, reconnect the battery and try to start the car.
What does Max have to loose, but twenty minutes of his time? If it proves nothing what did it hurt? What did it cost?
There are several examples here on the forum were members have been told by professionals that the SKREEM needs replacement, yet they simply pulled fuse 9, started their cars and drove away.
I suggest two things;
1. Slit a rubber plug in the aft trunk area; Takes maybe ten minutes
2. Disconnect the cars battery, pull fuse 9, reconnect the battery and try to start the car.
What does Max have to loose, but twenty minutes of his time? If it proves nothing what did it hurt? What did it cost?
There are several examples here on the forum were members have been told by professionals that the SKREEM needs replacement, yet they simply pulled fuse 9, started their cars and drove away.
Last edited by zip439; May 27, 2020 at 07:43 AM.


