Xfire Steering Wheel etc.
How diffdifficult is it to remove the xfire streeing wheel? Has any owners ever replaced our slightly large original one, with a smaller type? I relize the airbag may be a problem..but has it even been done and if so, what type was it replaced with.
Same question regarding removal of the seats and door trim's. Reason for both questions, is that I'm not a lover of the two tone coloured trim etc. I have viewed a few replacment xfire coupes, but backed off due to trim colour. I have considered buying one and changing seats etc with the very dark grey fitted to my roadster before selling it.
UKKen
How diffdifficult is it to remove the xfire streeing wheel? Has any owners ever replaced our slightly large original one, with a smaller type? I relize the airbag may be a problem..but has it even been done and if so, what type was it replaced with.
Same question regarding removal of the seats and door trim's. Reason for both questions, is that I'm not a lover of the two tone coloured trim etc. I have viewed a few replacment xfire coupes, but backed off due to trim colour. I have considered buying one and changing seats etc with the very dark grey fitted to my roadster before selling it.
UKKen
I would be interested in a steering wheel mod
How diffdifficult is it to remove the xfire streeing wheel? Has any owners ever replaced our slightly large original one, with a smaller type? I relize the airbag may be a problem..but has it even been done and if so, what type was it replaced with.
Same question regarding removal of the seats and door trim's. Reason for both questions, is that I'm not a lover of the two tone coloured trim etc. I have viewed a few replacment xfire coupes, but backed off due to trim colour. I have considered buying one and changing seats etc with the very dark grey fitted to my roadster before selling it.
UKKen
I even spelled tyres correctly for you.
How diffdifficult is it to remove the xfire streeing wheel? Has any owners ever replaced our slightly large original one, with a smaller type? I relize the airbag may be a problem..but has it even been done and if so, what type was it replaced with.
Same question regarding removal of the seats and door trim's. Reason for both questions, is that I'm not a lover of the two tone coloured trim etc. I have viewed a few replacment xfire coupes, but backed off due to trim colour. I have considered buying one and changing seats etc with the very dark grey fitted to my roadster before selling it.
UKKen

UKKen.
Last edited by UK ken; Jan 12, 2013 at 10:11 AM.
Also if the alignment has been played with it can be out if not centered properly.
My steering wheel is out a little, not much but enough to notice.
Steering wheel is on splines, so if it has been taken off it can be put on a spline or so out, I believe it is marked for original position. I'll find out for sure when I take mine off soon.
Also if the alignment has been played with it can be out if not centered properly.
My steering wheel is out a little, not much but enough to notice.
Also if the alignment has been played with it can be out if not centered properly.
My steering wheel is out a little, not much but enough to notice.
Bamp..I had exactly the same problem with Jane's car after a fault with the airbag sensor. The garage a main BMW dealer corrected the fault. Thay checked that the front wheel aligment was correct first and than refitted the steering wheel, fault cured.
I was told that once the streering wheel is removed unless the above is carried out, there is a good chance the streering wheel will be out by just a fraction. The spline's are very fine and once refitted its easy for the streering wheel to look straight until you road test it.
Back to the garage I think.
UKKen.
It could be one spline out. I think the splines on the Crossfire are quite fine,so one would do it. The other way to get it back is tracking. The best way is to put it on four wheel alignment. They brace the steering wheel in the central position and then set the wheels to the correct alignment. Two wheel alignment is a struggle to get it right. Lots driving up the road to see if the steering wheel is straight.
Ken. Not sure about a different steering wheel. Doesn't the column cowlings line up with the back of the steering wheel?
Jon
Ken. Not sure about a different steering wheel. Doesn't the column cowlings line up with the back of the steering wheel?
Jon
I have removed the steering wheel a number of times (replaced with a genuine Startech unit, see pics in my gallery) and I can confirm that the steering shaft splines are extremely fine. There's a notch for a centering tooth in the splines, BUT it's a female tooth so it doesn't guide you into any specific position (leave it to a female to be vague).
Also, the clockspring/steering angle sensor can rotate a bit, and if you're not bang-on with the alignment it can throw you off a bit.
To remove the airbag: extend the steering column out as far as it will travel. Due to tight clearances, you will have to turn the wheel to fit a T-Handle behind the wheel (there are two small bolts, one on either side of the wheel). With the car still on, turn the wheel 90° to the left, and remove the LH bolt using a T30 (torx) T-handle. This might require a grunt or two, the bolts are rather tight. At this point, simply LOOSEN them (don't fully remove them). Turn the steering wheel 180° to the right (the 3:00 position of the wheel should now be at the 6:00 position). Loosen the RH bolt using the same method above. Return the steering wheel to center, and shut the car off.
Now, unplug the battery and wait ten minutes before further poking about. This will allow the capacitor to release its charge, preventing the airbag from knocking your teeth out. After ten minutes, you can use an Allen wrench that is close to the T30 to easily back the bolts out of the airbag. The airbag, once loosened, should simply wiggle out of the hole. Use a plastic trim tool to gently pry the airbag wire out of the back of the airbag (it snaps in, but the connector is a 90° version and is a pain in the **** to remove with fingers). Now, you can go about removing the center bolt. A breaker bar will do the trick. If you have someone on-hand to hold the wheel, all the better.
Safest bet: once you've removed the center nut from the steering wheel (the one that holds it on), mark the splines with a grease pen BEFORE removing the wheel from the splines. When you slide the wheel back on the splines, the wheel should be able to match the exact position prior to removal. And remember, be careful of the angle sensor.
To reinstall the wheel, reverse the order above. I added a dab of Blue Loctite to the center nut for security.
Do not reconnect the battery until you've plugged the airbag back in, and you've snugged the two set screws with the Allen wrench. Once you've done that, you can reconnect the battery and crank the car to turn the wheel -- then use the T-handle to torque the bolts down.
Cheers!!
Also, the clockspring/steering angle sensor can rotate a bit, and if you're not bang-on with the alignment it can throw you off a bit.
To remove the airbag: extend the steering column out as far as it will travel. Due to tight clearances, you will have to turn the wheel to fit a T-Handle behind the wheel (there are two small bolts, one on either side of the wheel). With the car still on, turn the wheel 90° to the left, and remove the LH bolt using a T30 (torx) T-handle. This might require a grunt or two, the bolts are rather tight. At this point, simply LOOSEN them (don't fully remove them). Turn the steering wheel 180° to the right (the 3:00 position of the wheel should now be at the 6:00 position). Loosen the RH bolt using the same method above. Return the steering wheel to center, and shut the car off.
Now, unplug the battery and wait ten minutes before further poking about. This will allow the capacitor to release its charge, preventing the airbag from knocking your teeth out. After ten minutes, you can use an Allen wrench that is close to the T30 to easily back the bolts out of the airbag. The airbag, once loosened, should simply wiggle out of the hole. Use a plastic trim tool to gently pry the airbag wire out of the back of the airbag (it snaps in, but the connector is a 90° version and is a pain in the **** to remove with fingers). Now, you can go about removing the center bolt. A breaker bar will do the trick. If you have someone on-hand to hold the wheel, all the better.
Safest bet: once you've removed the center nut from the steering wheel (the one that holds it on), mark the splines with a grease pen BEFORE removing the wheel from the splines. When you slide the wheel back on the splines, the wheel should be able to match the exact position prior to removal. And remember, be careful of the angle sensor.
To reinstall the wheel, reverse the order above. I added a dab of Blue Loctite to the center nut for security.
Do not reconnect the battery until you've plugged the airbag back in, and you've snugged the two set screws with the Allen wrench. Once you've done that, you can reconnect the battery and crank the car to turn the wheel -- then use the T-handle to torque the bolts down.
Cheers!!
I have removed the steering wheel a number of times (replaced with a genuine Startech unit, see pics in my gallery) and I can confirm that the steering shaft splines are extremely fine. There's a notch for a centering tooth in the splines, BUT it's a female tooth so it doesn't guide you into any specific position (leave it to a female to be vague).
Also, the clockspring/steering angle sensor can rotate a bit, and if you're not bang-on with the alignment it can throw you off a bit.
To remove the airbag: extend the steering column out as far as it will travel. Due to tight clearances, you will have to turn the wheel to fit a T-Handle behind the wheel (there are two small bolts, one on either side of the wheel). With the car still on, turn the wheel 90° to the left, and remove the LH bolt using a T30 (torx) T-handle. This might require a grunt or two, the bolts are rather tight. At this point, simply LOOSEN them (don't fully remove them). Turn the steering wheel 180° to the right (the 3:00 position of the wheel should now be at the 6:00 position). Loosen the RH bolt using the same method above. Return the steering wheel to center, and shut the car off.
Now, unplug the battery and wait ten minutes before further poking about. This will allow the capacitor to release its charge, preventing the airbag from knocking your teeth out. After ten minutes, you can use an Allen wrench that is close to the T30 to easily back the bolts out of the airbag. The airbag, once loosened, should simply wiggle out of the hole. Use a plastic trim tool to gently pry the airbag wire out of the back of the airbag (it snaps in, but the connector is a 90° version and is a pain in the **** to remove with fingers). Now, you can go about removing the center bolt. A breaker bar will do the trick. If you have someone on-hand to hold the wheel, all the better.
Safest bet: once you've removed the center nut from the steering wheel (the one that holds it on), mark the splines with a grease pen BEFORE removing the wheel from the splines. When you slide the wheel back on the splines, the wheel should be able to match the exact position prior to removal. And remember, be careful of the angle sensor.
To reinstall the wheel, reverse the order above. I added a dab of Blue Loctite to the center nut for security.
Do not reconnect the battery until you've plugged the airbag back in, and you've snugged the two set screws with the Allen wrench. Once you've done that, you can reconnect the battery and crank the car to turn the wheel -- then use the T-handle to torque the bolts down.
Cheers!!
Also, the clockspring/steering angle sensor can rotate a bit, and if you're not bang-on with the alignment it can throw you off a bit.
To remove the airbag: extend the steering column out as far as it will travel. Due to tight clearances, you will have to turn the wheel to fit a T-Handle behind the wheel (there are two small bolts, one on either side of the wheel). With the car still on, turn the wheel 90° to the left, and remove the LH bolt using a T30 (torx) T-handle. This might require a grunt or two, the bolts are rather tight. At this point, simply LOOSEN them (don't fully remove them). Turn the steering wheel 180° to the right (the 3:00 position of the wheel should now be at the 6:00 position). Loosen the RH bolt using the same method above. Return the steering wheel to center, and shut the car off.
Now, unplug the battery and wait ten minutes before further poking about. This will allow the capacitor to release its charge, preventing the airbag from knocking your teeth out. After ten minutes, you can use an Allen wrench that is close to the T30 to easily back the bolts out of the airbag. The airbag, once loosened, should simply wiggle out of the hole. Use a plastic trim tool to gently pry the airbag wire out of the back of the airbag (it snaps in, but the connector is a 90° version and is a pain in the **** to remove with fingers). Now, you can go about removing the center bolt. A breaker bar will do the trick. If you have someone on-hand to hold the wheel, all the better.
Safest bet: once you've removed the center nut from the steering wheel (the one that holds it on), mark the splines with a grease pen BEFORE removing the wheel from the splines. When you slide the wheel back on the splines, the wheel should be able to match the exact position prior to removal. And remember, be careful of the angle sensor.
To reinstall the wheel, reverse the order above. I added a dab of Blue Loctite to the center nut for security.
Do not reconnect the battery until you've plugged the airbag back in, and you've snugged the two set screws with the Allen wrench. Once you've done that, you can reconnect the battery and crank the car to turn the wheel -- then use the T-handle to torque the bolts down.
Cheers!!
..I think I could like with the streering wheel just of centre....ot leave it to the offending garage to correct. UKIKen.
But since there's a garage at fault, I'd let them do the honors
It could be one spline out. I think the splines on the Crossfire are quite fine,so one would do it. The other way to get it back is tracking. The best way is to put it on four wheel alignment. They brace the steering wheel in the central position and then set the wheels to the correct alignment. Two wheel alignment is a struggle to get it right. Lots driving up the road to see if the steering wheel is straight.
Ken. Not sure about a different steering wheel. Doesn't the column cowlings line up with the back of the steering wheel?
Jon
Ken. Not sure about a different steering wheel. Doesn't the column cowlings line up with the back of the steering wheel?
Jon
Say hello to you know who from you know who

UKKen.
The Service Manual says that rotating the wheel more than one spline will upset sensor and turn signals.
Mine is off a spline I'd say but I will return it to the original position. I'll get it sorted at an alignment sometime.
Taking of the wheel was not possible by myself with a 2' long breaker bar, so I got the electric impact wrench out, I held the wheel and the bolt was out no problem.
Mine is off a spline I'd say but I will return it to the original position. I'll get it sorted at an alignment sometime.
Taking of the wheel was not possible by myself with a 2' long breaker bar, so I got the electric impact wrench out, I held the wheel and the bolt was out no problem.
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