Steve thanks for the valuable info.
Maxwell, interesting sounds like you maybe able to do away with the rear camber kit. I think I will check my rear camber before the install hoping that I'll be at zero or on the positive side. I wouldn't mind running anything up to a maximum of 1 degree negative after lowering it.

 

I don't have the camber kit and have a slight negative camber on the rear wheels. I think it's just right with the Eibach Pro Kit and the proper wheel spacers.

 

Your car looks great Fritz, but doing some research on the negative camber on Crossfire's I had concerns since the SRT6 already had more negative camber than a regular Crossfire. So I went ahead with a rear camber kit and just done the best I could as far as adjusting it till I get it in for an alignment job. I didn't install the front camber kit yet and it doubled the negative camber on the front after installing the springs. But it's going to have to be installed to get some of the negative out. When I put new tires on my '04 coupe I thought that my front tires were still in good shape, but when they pulled them off the rims the insides of the tires were shot, but the outside didn't look too bad.

 

I think your right about not needing the camber kit after you install the new springs. Actually that might be one of the reasons why it has weird tire wear, I think DaimlerChrysler over spring the rear to compensate for long term spring sag in the coils.

I still want to install the camber linkage and while I'm at it, thinking about building a Rear Toe linkage set up next.

 

When you buy a K-MAC rear camber kit it also comes with rear tow adjustment bushing too. I didn't install them yet, I may let the dealership do it if it needs it while they are doing the alignment.

 

I'm not wild about the Kmac kit, I prefer the use of turn buckles and heim joints, not to mention this will be about $200 cheaper to make and easier for the alignment tech to adjust. Keep it simple. There really is not much travel on the KMAC eccentric bushing either.

 

Yeah the K-MAC kit was very expensive, but it was the only rear camber kit I could find. I jacked the car up last night and set the rear tires on blocks with cardboard between the tires & blocks, then I loosened up the lower control arm bushings. I put 3 blocks end to end so I could back the car back & fourth to take any bind out and went ahead and adjusted the rear camber back to OEM spec's. I done it with a board, a level and a tape-measure, crude way but it worked. Now the front is a different story, the springs doubled the negative camber and you can tell the tire leans in at the top, (1-1/4") I have the front exocentric bolts for the camber adjustment, but I don't thick they will adjust enough to get back to OEM spec's.

 

Maxwell, I was wrong about the front eccentric camber bolts not giving me enough adjustment. I installed them last night and they put the camber pretty well where it was when I checked it before installing the springs, I thought I'd still have too much negative camber. But I think they effected my front tow in just a little.