putting new brake pads on tomorrow for first time.. any tips?
My used xfire didn't come with an owners manual. And I'm going to change my front pads for the first time..I noticed I'm down to the rotors... WHOOPS.
I've done brakes before, but never on this car.. .anything in particular I need to know before starting the job?
Thanks guys!
I've done brakes before, but never on this car.. .anything in particular I need to know before starting the job?
Thanks guys!
Originally Posted by JPJ526
My used xfire didn't come with an owners manual. And I'm going to change my front pads for the first time..I noticed I'm down to the rotors... WHOOPS.
I've done brakes before, but never on this car.. .anything in particular I need to know before starting the job?
Thanks guys!
I've done brakes before, but never on this car.. .anything in particular I need to know before starting the job?
Thanks guys!
If not then on with the show... I have not changed these before but they cant be much different from other cars.
BRAKE PAD INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Tools Required:
flathead screw driver
needle nose pliers
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
7 mm allen wrench
7 mm allen socket
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench
Steps to follow:
1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)
2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.
3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well)
3.) Use flat screw driver to push piston clip to compressed position. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston.
4.) Remove front caliper clip with screw driver or pliers.
5.) Remove sensors gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.
6.) Remove black plastic caps on backside of caliper.
7.) Use 7 mm allen socket and/or 7 mm allen wrench to remove both long allen bolts.
8.) Remove caliper from rotor (do not allow caliper to hang by brake lines). Set caliper on top of rotor, securely.
9.) Remove factory brake pads. Install inbound "Rotex" pad into caliper (no clip is used for piston). Install outboard pad onto rotor bracket housing.
10.) Side caliper over rotor. Secure caliper by inserting caliper allen bolts into the rear of caliper. Make sure bolts are in place correctly. Then tighten 7 mm allen bolts firmly. (*Note: Caliper will seem semi-loose, but this is normal).
11.) Reinstall sensor wire.
12.) Reinstall plastic caps on backside of caliper.
13.) Reinstall front caliper clip.
14.) Reinstall wheel and tire. Hand tighten lug nuts with 17mm socket. The tighten securely with lug wrench. Lower vehicle with floor jack and retighten lug nuts when vehicle is on the pavement. Torque lugs to 81 ft lbs.
15.) Start car and apply brake pedal repeatedly until pressure has built up. Drive as normal.
Tools Required:
flathead screw driver
needle nose pliers
3/8 ratchet w/ extension
7 mm allen wrench
7 mm allen socket
17 mm socket w/ extension (for easy of removing lug bolts)
floor jack
torque wrench
Steps to follow:
1.) Use a floor jack and tools to loose lug nuts. (suggestion: use electrical tape around exterior lug wrench bore for added protection from scratches to your rims)
2.) Use a floor jack to lift vehicle so the tire is 2" off the ground.
3.) Remove loosened lug nuts with 17 mm socket and extension. (use electrical tape on this socket as well)
3.) Use flat screw driver to push piston clip to compressed position. Place screw driver in the back side of caliper between rotor and inboard pad. Twist screw driver against pad and rotor to move piston.
4.) Remove front caliper clip with screw driver or pliers.
5.) Remove sensors gently by pulling on sensor to unplug.
6.) Remove black plastic caps on backside of caliper.
7.) Use 7 mm allen socket and/or 7 mm allen wrench to remove both long allen bolts.
8.) Remove caliper from rotor (do not allow caliper to hang by brake lines). Set caliper on top of rotor, securely.
9.) Remove factory brake pads. Install inbound "Rotex" pad into caliper (no clip is used for piston). Install outboard pad onto rotor bracket housing.
10.) Side caliper over rotor. Secure caliper by inserting caliper allen bolts into the rear of caliper. Make sure bolts are in place correctly. Then tighten 7 mm allen bolts firmly. (*Note: Caliper will seem semi-loose, but this is normal).
11.) Reinstall sensor wire.
12.) Reinstall plastic caps on backside of caliper.
13.) Reinstall front caliper clip.
14.) Reinstall wheel and tire. Hand tighten lug nuts with 17mm socket. The tighten securely with lug wrench. Lower vehicle with floor jack and retighten lug nuts when vehicle is on the pavement. Torque lugs to 81 ft lbs.
15.) Start car and apply brake pedal repeatedly until pressure has built up. Drive as normal.
In the pdf posted above, it says," Drain a small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with a clean suction gun." Is this necessary and what does it do?
When you push the pistons back, fluid will back up into the master cylinder probably causing an overflow.
I use a turkey baster to suck the fluid out. Pull out as much as you can, then when you're done with your brake job, refill with fresh fluid. And be careful not to let any of the brake fluid touch the paint of your car.
G/L
I use a turkey baster to suck the fluid out. Pull out as much as you can, then when you're done with your brake job, refill with fresh fluid. And be careful not to let any of the brake fluid touch the paint of your car.
G/L
My advice is to purchase some new aftermarket rotors, preferably slotted and/or drilled. This will do two things. One, you upgrade from the factory crap, and two, you have the rotors ready to go for the brake job. No stopping the job to go get them turned. Plus they look great thru the rim. Hey, that's 3 things!
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