suspension picture show extravaganza
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From: Long Island, NY
Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
Originally Posted by plainfire
Do you need a camber kit or anything?
Joined: Aug 2005
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Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
If anyone has problems with the clunking coming back use some blue locktight on the bolt for the lower control arm. The clunk came back on mine but ever sence I used the locktight its not come back. 
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From: Augsta, GA.
Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
i just put the koni's on about two weeks ago SRTPowa already put the Eibach springs on befor he sold it to me but it seems after i put the koni's on the car droped even more now or somthing im getting some rubing in the wheelwell. is there a way to put a spacer or somthing on the spring to rase the car about 1/2in or so or if theres somthing els i can do please let me know
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From: Georgia
Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
Originally Posted by Black SRT
Well I got the problem fixed. I unbolted the inner bolt for the control arm, the one that connects to the frame. I'm guessing I tightened it too much before I got it on the ground and preloaded the spring or I over torqued the bolt finishing up. I loosened the bolt with it on a jack then put it back on the ground and torqued it to 40 pounds, no more clunking.
Just curious if you've notice any rattling? Most noticeable over rougher roads.
I too had the clunk and figured I over tightened the bolt before dropping the car back on the ground… I did the same thing as you and it hasn’t come back since.
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Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
Hi,
Did you use the Eibach Pro-Kit springs (approx 1-1.3 inch drop)? Have you have any issues with alignment and camber? Or was there enough adjustment in the stock set-up to correct the Camber and alignment? I'm about to change just the springs, and I am worried I'm opening Pandora's box.
Did you use the Eibach Pro-Kit springs (approx 1-1.3 inch drop)? Have you have any issues with alignment and camber? Or was there enough adjustment in the stock set-up to correct the Camber and alignment? I'm about to change just the springs, and I am worried I'm opening Pandora's box.
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From: Long Island, NY
Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
Hi,
Did you use the Eibach Pro-Kit springs (approx 1-1.3 inch drop)? Have you have any issues with alignment and camber? Or was there enough adjustment in the stock set-up to correct the Camber and alignment? I'm about to change just the springs, and I am worried I'm opening Pandora's box.
Did you use the Eibach Pro-Kit springs (approx 1-1.3 inch drop)? Have you have any issues with alignment and camber? Or was there enough adjustment in the stock set-up to correct the Camber and alignment? I'm about to change just the springs, and I am worried I'm opening Pandora's box.
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Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
You appear to have sound knowledge so maybe you can answer my question...I have a Crossfire Convertable 2006. My steering drag arm (the rod that links the two rod ends called drag arm in US) has loose ball joints. Chrysler UK say whole section has to be purchased. Costly as you can imagine. So which Model Merc would replace this drag arm and if there is one does it seperate. Replacing just one side sounds cheaper but Chrysler dont do it. ???? Any ideas friend ???
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From: Knightdale NC
Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
Let the jack down slowly, and the spring will just dangle in the control arm. It is safe to push the lower control arm down to remove the shock and spring at this point. I recommend removing the spring pad as well and putting it on the eibach springs, locked into the correct position.
the black plastic shield needs to be removed from the stock shock. I put the metal part of the dust shield in a vice and pulled and the shield popped right off. The original bump stop must be removed, trimmed 20mm (2cm) and reinstalled onto the konis all of the original shock bushings are reused. With the konis, a plastic washer, new sleeve, new nut, lockwasher and washer are included. The metal part of the dust shield needs to be drilled to 12mm in order to accpet the koni's larger shaft.
reassemble, rinse (brooklyner weissbeir was my choice) and repeat.
the black plastic shield needs to be removed from the stock shock. I put the metal part of the dust shield in a vice and pulled and the shield popped right off. The original bump stop must be removed, trimmed 20mm (2cm) and reinstalled onto the konis all of the original shock bushings are reused. With the konis, a plastic washer, new sleeve, new nut, lockwasher and washer are included. The metal part of the dust shield needs to be drilled to 12mm in order to accpet the koni's larger shaft.
reassemble, rinse (brooklyner weissbeir was my choice) and repeat.
Can someone take a minute to explain the diagram of the bushings for me so I can tell a tech how to fix it. I need to cut bump stops all around I guess so I am going back in to re-install the shocks and I want to get i right. This picture looks like you have 4 bushings on a shock? Im sure I only have the two that came with my KYB kit. Car rides fine, no bushing noises but I am hitting bump stops / and/or my front tires are skipping off the inner fender.
Absolutely no body roll at all now, just need to get it from bouncing around the turns.
PM me please as I am sure everyone else here understands the diagram, I am just hard to teach.
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Denton Texas
Re: suspension picture show extravaganza
Upper rear control arm bushing bad (plastic/rubber piece collapsed so camber is way off). I have the bushings now but am hestiant to try to put them on myself..Is it a DIY for an old fart with moderate mechancal abilities? Any links to how to pricede with this would be appreciated.
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