I've only had my SRT-6 for a few weeks, and already I'm sick of cleaning brake dust from the wheels, so today I ordered some Rotex Gold pads for the front and rear.

In the meantime, tonight I decided to pull the rotors and have them turned just to remove any glazing and reduce the chance of squealing. Even with only 5 years and 10k miles on the car, I was surprised at the amount of rust and corrosion in the rotor hub area. In fact, the driver's front rotor took a lot of persuasion to come off in the form of a rubber mallet, PB Blaster, moderate heat, and finally a prybar.

In light of this, it may not be a bad idea for owners to pull their rotors now and clean up the surfaces with a wire wheel, and then coat the rotor flange and hub surfaces with Anti-Seize. When the time comes for new rotors, you may be glad you did. For those of us in wet or northern climates it could make a big difference and reduce labor time significantly. Just a thought.

Driver's Side Front Hub....


Driver's Side Rear Hub....

 

its common, especially in wet/snowy climates. They really do nothing corrosion resistance from the factory.

We do exactly what you described with the anti seize and wire wheel, it helps alot but it doesnt prevent it 100%.

On my 240 I had my hubs coated to prevent it, since I do alot of installation and removal or parts. We had a severe problem with our c6 z06, and it never sees rain. Just the water from washings caused the hub/brake rotor mating area to rust up.

 

Rust is natures way of lightening cars thereby improving gas mileage.

 

Update: The rotors have been bead blasted, turned, painted, and remounted. The calipers were painted and are mounted with new Rotex Gold pads. I almost have it back on the road......

Rotors in paint booth after primer


Driver side front rotor and caliper remounted


Passenger side rear rotor and caliper remounted

 

Good looking job on them.....

 

Very clean and SANO - worth all the effort you put in to it...

 

Nice work, they look great!

 

Living in Wisconsin I can see why you may have an issue wth rust. Lived in northern IL, southern WI for 10 years.

Of course livng in south FL now things are different. Not sure where your car spent the first part of its life but that probably had somethng to do with it.

 

Nice work, great results!

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Just for the record, the brown color that is shown in the final pictures isn't rust, it's copper Anti-Seize. The rotors and hubs are now rust free and will hopefully stay that way.

 

I'm impressed! Great job. Now you have me thiniking of another project.

 

I've been meaning to check mine, but probably wont do it until I get my cl500 brake stuff, no point in putting small stock parts back on, lol

 

Very nice! Great work!

 

This ALMOST makes me look forward to my first brake job on the 6 (still less than 9k miles on it). You've shown us how it's done right. Great job. My antiseize awaits. Bob

 

Beautiful job Blast Chamber! BTW what are torque specs for the F&R caliper bolts? thanks

 

Slide Pins 85 ft/lbs, mounting bolts 40 ft/lbs. (from 2004 Manual)
Slide Pins 18 ft/lbs, mounting bolts 41 ft/lbs. (from 2005 Manual)
The 85 ft/lbs looks a bit too much to me.
In another Manual (05zh-service.pdf) it says the mounting bolts are 85 ft/lbs not 40 ft/lbs and slide pins are 18 ft/lbs.
These specs need correcting somewhere.