Am I correct in thinking that you don't have to disconnect the Caliper from the brake hose to change these?

 

Yes.. Just make sure you don't leave the caliper hanging from the hose or let it drop. You will need torx sockets to remove the caliper though, and may need to pick up wear sensors from a dealership if the pads don't come with them(I used MB ones, $11/pr)

 

Aren't the NA ones 7mm hex bolts (allen keys)? Pads come with sensors so they should be ok . I've done the same job on lots of cars before it was just that the service guide said disconnect the calipers - just worried that there might be something odd going on!

 

On my car, I had 2 Torx bolts holding the caliper on and 2 18mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on. The torx bolts are behind caps in rubber sleeves.

 

I'll have a look then before I need to do it as I don't have much in the way of Torx stuff

 

There's a link to a .pdf file with a good diy
DIY Brakes, with pictures... - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

 

I am having a hard time getting motivated to change the pads all around on my brakes. Have the parts already, except new brake fluid. I had originally planned on installing SRT6 rotors and calipers, but found that the pads I ordered are not for the SRT6 calipers, but for the stock LTD rotors. I guess I'll just have to wait on that change.
Need to jack it up, paint the calipers red, put the new ceramic pads on and drive it for awhile. I'll order some new pads for the SRT6 calipers later. Just can't seem to get started, guess I have run out of gas. Best way to get going again is to just start I guess.

 

I've replaced the rear discs and pads - must be the easiest car I've ever done This has cured the problem of vibration on braking so I shan't need to do the fronts for a while (there was a 1" corroded area on one disc). So has anyone attempted the adjustment on the steering that removes free play? Thats next or possibly trying to remove the loose stone from one of the cats