Originally Posted by reiji (Post 756935)

I'm starting to hear a little bit of squeaking again, but not nearly as bad.
Are there some kind of washers that would maybe help? It seems to me like the bushings in these bar-ends just aren't so great.

Originally Posted by nhmercracer (Post 757078)

Here is how i prevented the squeaks.

The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.

The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails

The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.

I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.

Originally Posted by turbomar

Spray Krown T40 on the heim joints

Originally Posted by nhmercracer (Post 757078)

Here is how i prevented the squeaks.

The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.

The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails

The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.

I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.

Originally Posted by dayjor (Post 766867)

Just got all my parts... Anybody know the length of the new 1/2" bolts??

I live in a small town and would be easiest to have the bolts bought ahead of time....

Thanks

Originally Posted by syfi (Post 712854)

Just had the Konis installed (Thanx Rob for the Black Friday Deal!)

Still, I'm a little leary about using SS threads and rods. I've stripped way too many threads in the shop as SS still seems too soft and gummy for my liking.


MikeS

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Originally Posted by hpmotors (Post 773286)

However, I do wonder what alloy SS you've been using. I am not a metallurgist, but carbon steels and SS come a large variety of alloys. The SS we normally use in our automotive work is anything but "soft and gummy". In fact, it is dang HARD. The SS bolts, flanges etc on stock exhaust systems are way harder than carbon steel. Try cutting those fool things with a hack saw. Have to use a zip wheel as it dulls the teeth on the hacksaw blade. We used all SS rod ends, bolts etc on our formula ford cars back in the day when I actually drove one of those things.

Originally Posted by hpmotors (Post 773990)

Yep - lots of different alloys in both carbon and SS.
Funny you should mention Inconel. Just bought 8 studs for some turbo installations. $20 each! That X-15 pedigree probably drives up the cost!

Originally Posted by Timesnow (Post 794979)

What about the fronts, is this the same solution?

Originally Posted by ZX2 Nick (Post 796403)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all57162
Summit seems to be out of the gold rod, there is a link to the same thing in black on above URL.
James1549 said 12 inches is a good ballpark to be rid of the excess negative camber. The rod is listed as being 9.0 inches long, is the other 3 inches (1.5 in per end) of installed length coming from the exposed threads of the 2 rod ends? That seems like a lot.
How long is the threaded part of the rod end? Hopefully there's plenty inside the tube. Would 10 inches tubes be more suitable? Summit lists those also.