DIY Rear Cambers
 

These are my DIY Adjustable Rear Camber Arms that will alleviate the common premature wearing of the inner tread on the rear tires of our Crossfires. Since the OEM rear cambers have no way to adjust the camber, these will allow the top of the tire to be adjusted outward, thus standing the tire up straighter. The parts I used and have listed below can be assembled easily by anyone and then installed by yourself or by the tire store mechanic. *The included video @ the end of this document shows what’s involved with the installation process!

**WARNING**These are for strict use on OEM height N/As & SRTs ONLY. Use of these on lowered cars will result in the sway bar banging the crap out of the camber and causing possible damage, failure and annihilation!

Here's this entire thread condensed into a pdf file:

Attachment 36221


Here's a breakdown of the parts I used....

From: SpeedwayMotors.com
(Make sure to select the STR type from the dropdown for the straight thread)

91008001-STR..... FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END RH..... 2 ea..... $12.99 ea..... $25.98
Speedway Forged Steel 4-Bar Rod Ends, 5/8-18 RH Thread - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

91008002-STR..... FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END LH..... 2 ea..... $14.99 ea..... $29.98
Speedway Forged Steel 4-Bar Rod End, 5/8-18 LH Thread, Straight Shank - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

1750446..... JAM NUT 5/8" LH RAW..... 2 ea..... $0.99 ea..... $1.98
Steel Jam Nut, 5/8-18 LH - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

1750246..... JAM NUT 5/8" RH RAW..... 2 ea..... $0.99 ea..... $1.98
Steel Jam Nut, 5/8-18 RH - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Sub Total $46.93
Shipping $11.31
Tax $4.09
Total $62.33

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3 choices for Adjustment tubes... 2 ea needed for the kit, one per side.

Choice 1) Jeggs Allstar Performance #049-ALL57162 $11.59 ea. w/ Free Shipping... 2 ea.
Swedge Steel Tie-Rod Tube
> Black
> 5/8" Steel
> 7/8" O.D. x 9" lgth.
( Black ) Allstar Performance ALL57162, Allstar Swedged Steel Tie Rod Tubes | Allstar Performance

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Choice 2) Summit Racing has the Allstar Performance Steel Suspension Tubes which list the black anodized ones @ $11.59 ea. + shipping... 2 ea.
MPN: ALL57162
Thread Size: 5/8-18 in. RH/LH
Tube Length (in): 9.0 in.
Tube Style: Swedged
Tube Diameter (in): 0.875 in.
Tube Material: DOM Steel
( Black ) Allstar Performance Steel Suspension Tubes ALL57162 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

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Updated 8/8/2015
Choice 3) If you want to keep all parts in a single shipment, Speedway now has the AFCO Swaged Steel Tubes for $12.99 ea.
Material Type: Steel
Overall Length: 9.00"
Sold in Quantity: Each
Finish: Zinc
Tube O.D.: .625"
Thread Pitch: .875
Material Thickness:. 065"
MFG. Part #: 36179

( Zinc ) AFCO Swaged Steel Tube 7/8 Inch O.D. (5/8) Inch, 9 Inch Long

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Using Jeggs pricing:
Sub Total $23.18
Shipping $0.00
Tax $0.00
Total $23.18

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GRAND TOTAL: $85.51 / 2 pcs. set :cool::cool:

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IMPORTANT UPDATE (2/12/2017) : Some members have noted that the metal insert included with the 4-bar ends have a inside diameter of 1/2", which could cause the smaller diameter bolt (12mm) that holds the end onto the bracket to "clunk". One of our members has found a properly sized insert that should solve this problem. These inserts have the same O.D. and length as do the Speedway sleeves but with slightly thicker wall with a 12mm I.D., which fit the bolts more tightly. They can be procured from Iron Rock Off Road. You'll need 4 ea to fix the 2 camber set ($4.99 ea.)....

12MM Sway Bar Link Bolt Sleeve - Iron Rock Off Road


No slop with the iron rock offroad sleeves...
Attachment 38549

Left is iron rock, right is speedway
Attachment 38550

A Special Thanx to Jason Hudson!

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* Note: Use some marine grease (I used Aqua Shield - mfg: D.A. Stuart / Aqua Shield Grease) on the 4-bar, holder bolts and nylon inserts and on the threads to help lube the assembly. Run the lubed threads completely into and out of the tube to insure a clean thread fit. Some blue Locktite on the nuts will help keep the assembly locked down. Also, the use of 1/2" Fender washers may be required to tighten up the fit into the brackets, but mine fit fine without them.

** My 2-cents: I never did like the MikeR setup because of the moveable rod links which could possibly wear from vibration, the metal to metal rubbing of the heim socket end (which have become notorious for making noise and cause squeaking) and the materials used. I.E.- stainless threads going into aluminum. Both are too soft for my liking particularly where the threading is a concern. If not properly coated, the stainless can cause galvanic fracturing against the aluminum, a common problem where dissimilar metal contact is involved. And this can be accelerated where road salts are introduced.
My setup uses forged steel rod ends threaded into DOM swedged tubes which are more than strong enough. These have been tested on Modified Dirt & World Of Outlaw tracks with great success. Plus the rod ends are set into nylon which help absorb vibration and are much more durable than the OEM rubber type ends..

"DOH"- My Bad. I stand corrected. Still, I'm a little leery about using SS threads and rods. I've stripped way too many threads in the shop as SS still seems too soft and gummy for my liking.

UPDATE: 8/21/2020 - Prices have been updated!

Attachment 42348

Attachment 42349

Attachment 42350

Great YouTube vid showing the complete install process... Thanx to glencouls!






MikeS

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Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Definitely got my gears going... this is a super deal!

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Thank you sify

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Thanks for this thread. Did you happen to measure the overall or center bolt to center bolt length of the final installed product? I'm wondering if paying for a new alignment would really be necessary if I'm just trying to pull the tires in a little to reduce the inner wear.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

These arms push the top of the tire out to reduce inner tire wear...

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

IIRC, the factory arms are either 11.5" or 11.75" center to center. I adjusted mine to 12". I used a large framing square to see how they measured against my driveway. At 12" they are still so slightly negative but very close to "0".

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Correct, Mike's were of all stainless steel construction

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

I got the parts and installed them on one side so far (last night). Seem to have done the trick. JEGS doesn't carry the swedge tubes anymore so Speedway may be the best bet. If you can't find them there they are stioll being made, just need to search by part number on Google.
Thanks for the tip, this saved me $275.
By the way, I originally ordered some of these camber arms from SpeedyBenz and after weeks of not getting them went to PayPal to get my money back. They gave it to me, and then the SpeedyBenz website was shut down. Apparently they are no longer making camber arms.
Cheers.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Thanks for the update Chill-e. I updated my original post with even cheaper options, including a choice of black anodized over gold anodized! ;)

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

I've been troubleshooting some pretty bad 'creaking' coming from my rear suspension since I lowered my car and installed these camber arms and similar sway bar links.

I've taken it to one import shop who said "all of the bushings are squeaking. I wouldn't even know where to begin."
I took it to another shop that was much more helpful and we narrowed it down to the outside ends of these camber bars. Has anyone had this issue or have any suggestions?

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Spray Krown T40 on the heim joints

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Get some Boeshield T9. Best waterproof lubricant/protectant ever made. I'd pull the bolt out of the camber end, coat it and reassemble. Or just simply spray it on all the link ends. It's designed to penetrate metal pores and dissolve minor corrosion, then leave a resilient waxy coating that lasts for many months, yet will not harm painted surfaces. It's also non-conductive so this stuff is great on battery terminals too! :cool:

Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Sounds like good stuff. I'll try to find some and try it out.
I tried some Silicone spray made by WD-40 and the squeaking went away for about a day, then comes back.

Thanks!

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

I must have gotten the last two sewdge tubes from jegs, ordered those and the other parts as mentioned from speedway, installed them today.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Hi Friends,
Can anybody support me?I am having the Crossfire 2004 .I cannot find winter tyres for the rear wheel 255/35/19 .But 255/40/19 is available in the market.So can i use this 255/40/19 dimension tyres.Will it make any trouble?Please support me with your replies.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Here's several 255/35/19 listed on TireRack...

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSe...35&diameter=19

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

The T9 lubricant that I ordered arrived and I applied it to either end on the camber arms today. I've been driving around town and the suspension is completely silent! :-)

I just hope it lasts a long time. I'll be happy even if I only have to reapply it every few months.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

I'm starting to hear a little bit of squeaking again, but not nearly as bad.
Are there some kind of washers that would maybe help? It seems to me like the bushings in these bar-ends just aren't so great.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Here is how i prevented the squeaks.

The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.

The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails

The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.

I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Spray Krown T40 on the heim joints

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Pics would be appreciated. What you say makes sense though. I believe the bushings are actually spinning in the bar end and making noise because they're not lubricated.


Are we talking about the same camber bars? :) I'm using the ones from this thread and they don't have a heim joint on either end.
My sway bar links have a heim at the top end, but they're not making any noise.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Not a Heim or rose joint, but still a rod end.

Here are pics of how I drilled out the inner mount for 1/2 inch bolts.

http://imageshack.us/a/img266/966/sp40.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/7893/ako5.jpg

I reversed the arrangement to do the other side of the mount. Everything is 1/4 hex drive, including the step bit. I had the flex drive, but had to purchase the bit. I spent money for a good one at the local hardware store. The driver is nothing but an electric screwdriver. I added a little lube, and let the bit work slowly.

I don't have a pic of the washers, but they are 1/2 stainless fender washers. I brought a caliper, and found the thinnest washers.

Installed:

http://imageshack.us/a/img20/231/vx3k.jpg

I don't have a picture of drilling out the outboard mounting hole unfortunately. I used a short 1/2 bit, and an angle drill. I also used a drill guide.

The washers were a slip fit in the inner tabs. They went in with a slight press with a wooden stick. I would call the fit similar to the stock parts. The bolts tightened up nice after assembly. No noise at all with the green grease.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

ttt.

Pics finally. ;)

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

I have MikeR rear adjustable camber and sway bar links. Great product but bad squeaking. Thanks for sharing your solution

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Just got all my parts... Anybody know the length of the new 1/2" bolts??

I live in a small town and would be easiest to have the bolts bought ahead of time....

Thanks

Replied to your pm. I'll post here if I can get the lengths (My butt under the car).

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Stock inner bolt is approximately 2 1/4 inches long. So buy 1/2 by 2 1/2 length fine thread washers, and a locknut.

Stock outer bolt is approximately 3 inches long. So 1/2 by three inches should do.

These length DO NOT include the bolt head. Measurements are of the bolt shank only. This is the way they are commonly spec'd.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Thank you so much for the time and info.....

Appreciate it!

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Enjoyed the thread - great info. I plan to build some adjustable links myself with all the info in this thread.

However, I do wonder what alloy SS you've been using. I am not a metallurgist, but carbon steels and SS come a large variety of alloys. The SS we normally use in our automotive work is anything but "soft and gummy". In fact, it is dang HARD. The SS bolts, flanges etc on stock exhaust systems are way harder than carbon steel. Try cutting those fool things with a hack saw. Have to use a zip wheel as it dulls the teeth on the hacksaw blade. We used all SS rod ends, bolts etc on our formula ford cars back in the day when I actually drove one of those things.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

I was referring to the common 304 SS bolts. 316 SS is alot harder. You've probably used the 400 series SS for exhaust systems which are even harder. But for ultimate SS hardness the 15-5PH and 17-4 PH are a real mother to machine. 440C may be slightly harder and is used for bearing applications. It has high surface hardness, but low ductility and fracture toughness. ATI S240 in the H950 will give you a hardness of 48-50HRc and a YS of about 230ksi. The advantage it has over 440C is that it is a high-strength PH grade (similar to 17-4ph) so it maintains toughness (10% elongation).

Non-magnetic and strong SS is a short list. We use A-286. You can get 1300 MPa yield, 1400 MPa tensile. It's the only precipitation hardened austenitic, essentially an iron-base superalloy.

And don't forget Inconel. Very difficult metal to shape and machine using traditional techniques due to rapid work hardening! ;)

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Yep - lots of different alloys in both carbon and SS.
Funny you should mention Inconel. Just bought 8 studs for some turbo installations. $20 each! That X-15 pedigree probably drives up the cost!

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Hi guys,
This might be a dumb question... Once the parts are all here..how do I put them together? I know I know... Is it one end with LH and the other with RH? Or are they dependent on the side of the car they will be on? Ex: one set all LH and the other set all RH. Seriously...I have the parts in the online cart. I'm doing this =)

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

From what I remember there is only one way to thread them into the tube. One set of threads on the end of the tube is for LH and the other set of threads is for RH. The idea is that once both ends are threaded into the tube you should be able to hold the ends tight, rotate the tube and the ends will either come closer together or drift further apart.
Make sure you install the lock nuts between the tube and the ends so you can lock them down when adjusted properly.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

What about the fronts, is this the same solution?

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Nope... Fronts only require the install of the eccentric alignment bolts. You'll need 4 ea for the front. One for caster and one for camber on driver side front and same for passenger side front. The aftermarket/OEM eccentric bolts will allow +/-1.5 degree adjustment which should be plenty to get you in spec. The part number for one bolt is: 2023300118. The Febi-Bilsteins are essentially the same bolts as the OEM Mercedes eccentrics. The Febi ones I got from AutohauzAZ were stamped with DYTSA which is a well respected vehicle bolt mfg. You're better off sticking with the Febi price wise.:cool:

Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)

Update 6/29/2019: Another supplier... FCP Euro
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...kit-2023300118

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all57162
Summit seems to be out of the gold rod, there is a link to the same thing in black on above URL.
James1549 said 12 inches is a good ballpark to be rid of the excess negative camber. The rod is listed as being 9.0 inches long, is the other 3 inches (1.5 in per end) of installed length coming from the exposed threads of the 2 rod ends? That seems like a lot.
How long is the threaded part of the rod end? Hopefully there's plenty inside the tube. Would 10 inches tubes be more suitable? Summit lists those also.

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

Length of the threaded shank on the 4 bar end is 1-7/8". Add to the 9" tube the distance from middle of bolt hole to start of threaded shank and you have best spacing for adjustments around 12" distance. The 9" tube is perfect when both rod ends are installed. 10" is asking for trouble as there is probably over an inch from the center of bolt hole to the top of the shank shaft, meaning you'll not be able to adjust below 12". 8" tubes leave too much thread exposure. You want the shank to thread in all the way till the tube bottoms out on both ends then back each out till 12" bolt hole to bolt hole is met.
Let's put it this way...9" tube w/ both rod ends screwed all the way in will give around 11-1/4", so 12" will expose maybe 3/8" of threaded shank on each end. So yes, most of the threaded shank is in the tube.
Price for the same mfg rod I quoted from EastCoastSpeed is cheaper w/ free shipping.:eek:

Re: DIY Rear Cambers
 

I am ordering all the pieces right now. But they are out of stock on gold steel rods so I will try to find them from a different source...
Thank you for the info!!!