doing a 4 wheel alignment, what preps needed?
Going to change my tie rod ends and thereafter do a 4 wheel aligment. last time I had my N/A to do this, they could not adjust everything.
Are there any bolts, or other things I should buy (easy to install prior to alignment) ?
It is a SRT-6 that I am doing this to.
many thanks
Are there any bolts, or other things I should buy (easy to install prior to alignment) ?
It is a SRT-6 that I am doing this to.
many thanks
Are you lowered? If not you should be ok with stock parts.
If you are lowered there are a couple options. the MB camber bolts for the front can be put in but that is just static adjustment really, nothing can be dialed in with those. You would basically just be checking to see if they were enough to get you back in spec.
The other options are k-Mac front + rear bushings. These are $$$ but will get you enough adjustment front and back to get in spec. These require a press and possibly some other tools to get everything disconnected (think a ball joint tool is needed??) and back together.
The only other solution is for the rear only, you can make some camber arms and install them yourself, these will give you the most camber adjustment but there are some problems with sway/camber contact with this setup on some lowered cars.
If you are lowered there are a couple options. the MB camber bolts for the front can be put in but that is just static adjustment really, nothing can be dialed in with those. You would basically just be checking to see if they were enough to get you back in spec.
The other options are k-Mac front + rear bushings. These are $$$ but will get you enough adjustment front and back to get in spec. These require a press and possibly some other tools to get everything disconnected (think a ball joint tool is needed??) and back together.
The only other solution is for the rear only, you can make some camber arms and install them yourself, these will give you the most camber adjustment but there are some problems with sway/camber contact with this setup on some lowered cars.
Should be good then. If for some reason your front camber is out of spec you can always put the bolts in and then get alignment checked (usually free) to see where they put you.
So no camber kit needed for rear nor front if I am stock height?
My rears are way out of spec and I'm at stock height with not intentions of lowering the car. I went ahead and bought a set of adjustable camber arms for the rear in case the bolts didn't offer enough adjustability. I'd rather pay once and be done with it.
how much and where from?
I bought a set from someone on here yesterday. Here's a link to where they are sold new. Home Page
For the front there are bolts you can get from mercedes. Some call them "crash" bolts, others camber bolts. Should be able to find the part number easily with a search. These offer a static amount of adjustment as you can only install them 2 ways ( one way for positive adjustment, one for negative) Cant remember exact cost but I want to say like $15 a piece from the dealer. You can use a total of 4 (castor and camber on each side) depending on your needs.
As for the rear there are a couple parts lists you can use to build your own sets. I think speedybenz makes some for the SLK that can be used or you may be able to find some used ones on the forum that mikeR or other members have made.
Some others have had this happen as well with the TVT ones I believe. Rudy started a thread about putting some sets together but I'm not sure of the time frame.
Speedybnz Camber Arms are constructed out of Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) steel tubing which results in a precise steel tube with accurate dimensioned wall thickness. The ends of the tubing are swedged to reduce the end diameter and to strengthen the tubing ends where the threads are cut into the steel. The steel tubing is Zinc coated to enhance corrosion resistance.
The rod end bearings are oversized and built using Chrome Moly steel and then chrome plated for corrosion resistance. The bearing race is filled with a Kevlar/Teflon combination of materials to eliminate noise in the bearing often occurring in cheaper rod ends and the Teflon helps to self lubricate the bearing race.
Stainless steel inserts are custom machined to reduce the rod end through hole diameter and allow seamless fitment to a wide range of Mercedes-Benz cars. The stainless steel inserts will not rust or corrode.
When the camber arms are assembled an anti-seize paste is used on the threads to allow the tubing to remain free of corrosion for easy installation and adjustment after years of use. Left and right handed threads are used to allow the camber arm to remain on the car for easy adjustment.
As Airscape pointed out, I must have been thinking of the TVT product. I didn't want that pretty XF of yours getting smashed up because of bad parts
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