After reading a few threads about the importance of brakes,I wanted to ask everyone about changing the brake fluid. Is this something I can do myself as I have never done it before? I already purchased 3 bottles of Motul RBF600 just not sure what to do with it! Thanks

 

maxcichon and I got together a few weeks ago and changed :
brake fluid
power steering fluid
hydraulic top pump fluid
differential fluid
in both of out roadsters.
Max had bought an air compressor powered brake fluid sucker, and it sure worked GREAT !!!
The compressor causes a vacuum in the canister that connects to the caliper, and it came with a bottle and mount that you put the new fluid in and mount inverted over the master cylinder reservoir, kinda like a dog's water bottle thing.

Here's an inexpensive kit from Harbor Freight :
Brake Fluid Bleeder

 

I use this: Mityvac

Don't forget to use some Teflon tape on the bleeder nipple threads, ( don't block the hole!) This thing works great, and you can do it without help.

 

I've used the friend pumping the pedal method and gravity bleeding method. If you have the time gravity bleeding works great and best of all, you don't need special tools.

Les

 

This is the unit I bought. However, in the instruction manual for it the thread leak is addressed. So long as you keep the suction going while you close (tighten) the bleeder screw the last time, no air can be introduced to the system.
And they recommend using silicone grease on the threads and not telflon thread tape. And I have to agree.

 

People who are cheap and still have friends use the old method of pumping the pedal. That's why I had to buy a vacuum pump.

 

Well, Dave, I have very few friends myself. But I bought it because I'm really getting lazy. This thing makes bleeding brakes a one (drunk/blind/inept) person job. Great investment. Alaxfire and I used it to suck the old fluids out of both the power steering reservoir and the reservoir for the drop top hydraulics.

Rated to 175 degrees F, it can be used (in 4 or 5 steps-2 quart capacity) for changing the motor oil too. After a short wait from operating temp, of course.

But I'm old-school. I still crawl underneath and replace a copper gasket when I do mine. Peace of mind and I can look stuff over.

 

Here is the only way to go when messing with fluids:

 

motive power bleeder and no teflon tape. fill the resovoir and not the power bleeder. no mess and you dont need any friends

 

Back in the fifties and sixties when we did not know about or cared less about pollution, we dug a hole in the gravel driveway and unscrewed the sump plug. No problem, we were just putting it back where it came from.

I guess that's almost a hanging offense these days.

I did recycle oil though, I drained it into glass bottles, let it sit for six months and let the black crap settle to the bottom. I then added some oil additive to the clear oil and put it back in my old 350 BSA as a top up supply.

 

You mean: you actually have to pump that thing? With your hands?

How...quaint!

 

Most of us mortals can't afford that thing. Looks good though.

 

Yeah, you need something to seal the threads or you'll see air in the clear plastic line. If you're trying to get air out of the system, and you don't seal the threads, you can't tell when the air is out of the brake lines.

 

When I first saw it I thought it was a DIY colonic flush apparatus. Guess not.

 

Not true. You will see tiny bubbles in the clear fluid line from the bleeder threads, but you will know the difference. Or at least you should know the difference

 

Maybe you should have bought a Yugo and not a Crossfire I guess you don't change oil because of the cost as well?

 

Mityvac makes this model and an air operated on. Easier this way, you don't have to deal with an air hose attached.

 

+1

If I'm bleeding brake lines, I'l pull all new fluid from the Master.

 

One thing Max didn't mention : on both of ours, the OEM fluid was kinda burnt orange/gold colored, the new fluid was blue. It was easy to see when all the new stuff had replaced the old stuff.

 

And some thing neither of us mentioned:

On the tin of ATE Blue Racing Brake Fluid, it states in big, bold letters that it is NOT approved for on-street use due to it not being "fluid standard color compliant" or some such crap.

Is that the EPA black helicopters I hear approaching?

And, if one calculates the volume of the longest line, right, rear it's no more than ~1-2 fluid ounces. A good guide for how much fluid to extract when bleeding, no?