Changing Brake Fluid
And some thing neither of us mentioned:
On the tin of ATE Blue Racing Brake Fluid, it states in big, bold letters that it is NOT approved for on-street use due to it not being "fluid standard color compliant" or some such crap.
Is that the EPA black helicopters I hear approaching?
And, if one calculates the volume of the longest line, right, rear it's no more than ~1-2 fluid ounces. A good guide for how much fluid to extract when bleeding, no?
On the tin of ATE Blue Racing Brake Fluid, it states in big, bold letters that it is NOT approved for on-street use due to it not being "fluid standard color compliant" or some such crap.
Is that the EPA black helicopters I hear approaching?
And, if one calculates the volume of the longest line, right, rear it's no more than ~1-2 fluid ounces. A good guide for how much fluid to extract when bleeding, no?
If we were in Canada, we'd probably be looking at 6 months in jail, 5 years probation and a $3000 fine ......
All,
I need to add some brake fluid to my Brake Fluid Reservoir, any suggestions on what brand to use. I have a 2007 Crossfire Roadster. I wasn't sure if I could use any brand of DOT4. The current color is yellowish. Thank you for any information you can share.
I need to add some brake fluid to my Brake Fluid Reservoir, any suggestions on what brand to use. I have a 2007 Crossfire Roadster. I wasn't sure if I could use any brand of DOT4. The current color is yellowish. Thank you for any information you can share.
Looking over the posts in this thread, I thought I would suggest the use of brake "bleeder" fittings. I've used these on several of my cars. Fitting has a "built-in" check valve that comes into play when the bleeder screw is loosened only a 1/4 turn. Allows you to bleed the brakes "the conventional way" by pumping the brake pedal. Old fluid evacuates the line and when you release the brake pedal, the internal check valve prevents backflow of air into system. Seems somewhat risky, but these special "bleeder" screws really do work.
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