The links are not working for me. 404 not found

Anyways i dont doing a little modification, but i guess ill try and search for some used ones. I just dont want it to blow again.

 

I'm almost wondering if since the car has 15,000 miles it has been sitting a lot since 05 if that is why maybe it blew.

 

I need the two replacement subs if still available .
lajv1263

 

I've sold one - so I'll need to search to see what I have left...

 

Are any of these actually useful replacements? I know we just need bass capabilities....
Car Selector

 

might sound like a dumb question, but how do u know if your subwoofers are blown mine work but no amount of volume to them can hardly hear them? they dont rattle or anything just real low on volume, help

 

again can anybody answer this question

 

guess not lol

 

When mine blew, I could hear a rattle but no difference in volume. Increase the volume, louder the rattle. I pulled the subs and noticed the cone started separating from the speaker rim, that's a blown sub .

 

ok thanks bud not sure what my problem is cause they sound ok just cant hear them even up load, but they are working kind of lol

 

I am missing a grill over one of mine and I often have to stick a finger on the speaker cone to tell if it's working.

I put the filters on the door speaker to reduce base. This allows turing up the volume and get more base from the rear. I am now not so sure that was the best idea.
I am thinking about putting better speakers in the door, removing the filters and not depending on the rear for bass.

 

I have two brand new Pyles subs that fit our rear sub locations. I decided not to sue them b/c I placed a dedicated 10" sub in the rear luggage compartment along with a dedicated sub amp. So I have the brand new Pyles for sale if anyone wants them.

 

SrWilliams, one of my subs just blew, do you still have those Pyles for sale?

 

Who mnows if the green and grey wire for the second voice coil are positive or negative?

 

Hi, I'm new to this and need some insight on replacing the subs. I can remove the grills , but what do I have to do to remove the panel so I can access the speaker and mount?

 

I removed the seats, it makes working on the subs so much easier! then there is a **** at the top of the carpet that can be twisted off and interior plug that needs to be popped off a screw as well. then just pull the carpet down from the wall and you will see the box and 3 nuts to take it out.

 

My driver side subwoofer recently bit the bullet which brings me to this thread. I read through everything but I still had a few questions.

1. What is the part # for the OEM subwoofer and where can I purchase one? I've searched Google a bit and haven't really found anything.
2. Is the an aftermarket suvwoofer available at a lesser cost that is basically "plug & play"? I'm not interested in having to cut/modify anything to make it fit. I should also note that I have an aftermarket head unit (Clarion FZ501 media player). But i'm not looking for anything crazy - as clock to stock specs as possible.

Edit*

Found this while searching Google. Seems like it would be a practical replacement if you're not really looking to upgrade. It's 2 ohm and the magnet looks like it would fit w/o any modification. Still don't really know how it compares to the OEM woofer though. I searched high and low but couild never find what the specifications were for it.

http://www.parts-express.com/grs-6pr...m_campaign=pla

GRS 6PR-8 6-1/2" Poly Cone Rubber Surround Woofer
GRS 6PR-8 6-1/2" polypropylene cone woofers with butyl rubber surrounds are great replacement speakers, but also provide excellent performance in new projects.






Product Specifications

• Nominal Diameter6-1/2"<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Power Handling (RMS)60 Watts
• Power Handling (max)85 Watts<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Impedance8 ohms
• Frequency Response60 to 8,000 Hz<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Sensitivity85 dB 1W/1m
• Voice Coil Diameter1.5"

Thiele-Small Parameters

• Resonant Frequency (Fs)75 Hz<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>DC Resistance (Re)7.55 ohms
• Voice Coil Inductance (Le)1.11 mH<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Mechanical Q (Qms)4.32
• Electromagnetic Q (Qes)1.34<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Total Q (Qts)1.02
• Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas)0.24 ft.³<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax)3 mm

Materials of Construction

• Cone MaterialPoly<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Surround MaterialRubber
• Magnet MaterialFerrite

Mounting Information

• Overall Outside Diameter6.5"<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Baffle Cutout Diameter5.625"
• Depth3.0625"<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow># Mounting Holes4

Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)

• Sealed Volume0.29 ft.³<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Sealed F378 Hz
• Vented Volume1.48 ft.³<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Vented F343 Hz

GRS 6PR-8 6-1/2" Poly Cone Rubber Surround Woofer

• BrandGRS<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Model6PR-8
• Part Number292-426<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>UPC844632088513
• Product CategoryWoofers<LI class=SpecLabelAltRow>Unit of MeasureEA
• Product Rating (52 Reviews)
  
  
• Weight2.85 lbs.

 

Bump.

Anybody?

 

My driver side rear speaker died recently as well (torn foam around edge). Combination of Texas heat and music too loud I assume.

I bought some cheap "Kicker" standard speakers and stuck them in there. Everything is the wrong specs, single coil, 4 ohm. But they actually sound alright - I was able to turn my bass up and my treble down a little. It is worth noting that I have done the "best bang for your buck speaker modification". We will see - I didn't realize new OEM was only $45 or I think I would have just bought one new one as my passenger side upon removal looked fine.

SPEAKER. Left. Sub Woofer. Woofer. Speakers, Amplifier, and Related Items made by Mopar. #05102804AA

Left - 05102804AA
Right - 05102806AA

Item 2: I am not the right one to be telling you this (obviously from the last paragraph I don't know what I am talking about). But from my research prior to changing them, these should be dual voice coil, 2 ohms, sub woofer and be designed for "open air". Oh yes, and the housing can accommodate a 2.75-3" depth as long as the magnet is not too wide.

I personally could not find many options. I found several component speakers that may have worked, but once again, if I had known you could buy the speaker new for $45 I would have probably done that - and might still.

Last item; if you need the passenger side, it is listed at over $200. Just buy the driver side and use your old housing, it is the same speaker.

Good luck! There are picture by picture instructions on removing the rear speakers somewhere on here. People have mentioned to remove the seat if you want more room, I did not have issues getting to them with the seats forward.

Ryan

 

I found two possible options. Repair or replace.A quality sound shop that sells amplifiers and speakers to the music trade should be able to rebuild the original as long as the problem is the surround and not the voice coil. This usually an inexpensive fix . I purchased 2 Pyle PLPW6D dual voice coil woofers . They required modification to the mounts (used a Dremel tool) and they work wonderfully . I am now replacing the head on the system and discovered that although car audio systems are black, marine audio systems are silver and will blend into the dash better. You can usually find the same or similar systems in both.The marine units also have the advantage of having coated circuit boards that are water resistant .