Originally Posted by James1549
OK Mark thanks for the info and let me go over my scenario again if you can help.
1. When the latch is released and top pushed up, the windows go down automatically. Do you agree the microswitch in the w/s frame is functioning correctly? I do.
I AGREE
2. The microswitch on the partition panel is correctly adjusted and seems to be working properly. Also I disconnected the switch at the connector, jumped the plug over at the wire harness end with a paperclip to bypass the switch. Also I left it 'open' and tried it. No dice either way. So far I don't expect this to be the problem but a new switch has been ordered.
The switch is normally open, if the partition is up, the switch closes indicating this (and I just went to the garage and verified this with my car) - so your shorted plug should have done it - I'd say the switch is ok.
3. I need some advice/information on the trunk lock sensor you speak of. How can I test it, bypass it temporarily, etc....
Any additional information would be greatly appreciated.
James
Ok, on point 3, it gets complicated. I know the assembly is there, as I have transplanted the assembly as described in my Trunk Lid Jammed thread....
I'll have to go thru the manual and see what I can find. But you CAN remove the trim from the lid, take the assembly out and inspect it! I remember the cam being easy to move, you could let it hang, manually move it to the locked position and see if you get anywhere. There is an electric solenoid that moves it back and forth, but I am sure I remember being able to move it myself.
This cam, if it does not pull back far enough, will indicate that it has - but it hasn't. This prevents opening the trunklid! I wonder if it can fail such that it does not go far enough to indicate a lock (which could be your problem!) Here is an idea - release the latch and IN A QUIET ENVIRONMENT see if you can HEAR just as you press the button to lower the top, the cam moving back there. If there is NO sound and NO movement, then the thing isn't moving and indicating a lock, so the top won't move.
ALSO, when you hit the button, not only should you hear something, but after hitting the button THE TRUNK LID SHOULD BE LOCKED! If it is not - well, THERE is the probllem, the thing isn't locking, so it isn't providing a lock indication and no wonder you can't make the top move!
ALways remember, the procedure is:
Unlatch the handle.... sensor tells BCM to lower windows and "turn on" the top movement system. (The light in the switch comes on). It does not matter if the lid or divider sensors indicate ANYTHING at this point - unlatch the latch and the windows DO move and the switch DOES light.
IF the divider switch is closed, and the trunklid is fullyclosed (don't know where THAT sensor is), you hit the button, the electric cam moves to lock the trunklid - and when it indicates this, the motor starts running and away you go!
Of course, with the interactions of the BCM moving the windows, the speed sensors telling the BCM that you are stopped or going slow enough, and the handshaking between the TCM and BCM, there are lots of things that COULD go wrong - but usually, it's a mechanical switch or cam problem. NOT some failed module.
I'll spend some time with the service manual at bedtime tonight and see what else I can find. Figuring out the wiring of the electric lock AND finding the sensor that indicated a fully closed trunklid are our priorities right now....