I've found my problem...it's the rear bow switch! I'm going to try and see if some lubrication will make it work properly. Otherwise, I'll have to order one.

 

Well, it turns out that the bow switch has to be replaced. It does seem, though, that if you leave it so that it is CLOSED, the top, in my case, works. It has continued to work all afternoon. Pictures of the broken part are below...


https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...6/ppuser/32459

I left the broken slider off so that the switch would stay closed.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...5/ppuser/32459

This is the way the switch should look.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...4/ppuser/32459

This is the slider...mine is broken at the bottom, and if you look carefully at the first photo, you'll see what looks like a pin where a spring would have been.

 

Ok, let's look at what we DO know:

1) The Latch Switch in the windshield frame is ok, the ground it applies to the TCM causes the TCM to command the BCM to lower the windows.

The above tells us that: The TCM and BCM are capable of communicating with one another. This tells us that, essentially, both module's microprocessors are alive and well. (Not that the whole module is good, but such is most likely). This also tells us that the fuses that supply battery power to those modules are ok. We know you are not going over 9mph, so the BCM should allow the TCM to lower the top. AND, since we have determined that the modules are talking to one another, I think it's safe to assume that the BCM is not "lying" that you are going over 9mph.

Ok...


The next item required to make stuff happens is that we need a ground on pin 7 of Connector C1 on the TCM. How do we get the ground? The Roof open switch and the cargo divider switches work together to do this. (You have supplied pictures of BOTH in an earlier post).

Now, look for a brown and black wire that goes from C1 pin 7 on the TCM to harness connector C301's pin 3 (should be near the TCM but may be connector on the passenger side of car near the top linkages) and becomes a black wire. This wire enters a harness and goes up the passenger side of the top, to the "ROOF OPEN SWITCH". If the switch is allowed to relax (when you open the top) the switch closes, connecting the other black wire on that switch, which THEN goes back to Connector C301 pin 2 and becomes a brown and black wire. THIS wire then goes to the "CARGO COMPARTMENT DIVIDER SWITCH". If pressure from the divider hook presses on this switch, it closes, connecting the BROWN wire on that switch to the brown and black wire. The brown wire goes directly to ground, to a bolt that also has the brown wire from the rear bow switch and the brown wire from the TONNEAU COVER SWITCH on it as well.

WHAT WOULD I DO? If the top refuses to work, leave it unlatched from the roof and open the trunk (since it won't lock anyway). Take the trim away from the driver side and get access to the TCM.

See page 8W-80-51 if the manual. C1 is shown. Measure the voltage on pin 7 of C1.

If the top open switch and divider switch have both closed, there HAS to be zero volts (that is, a ground) on this pin. IF THERE IS A GROUND HERE, then the TCM might be bad! If there IS NOT a ground here, then the divider switch or roof open switch are bad OR SOMEWHERE the wires I described above have opened. It is POSSIBLE that with all the flexing over the years, we have a broken wire (they can be broken internally without appearing bad on the outside).

I realize getting to the TCM is a pain, but it is the key to figuring this out.

ONE OTHER THING You also need a "trunk closed" indication from the BCM to allow the electric lock to activate and things to start happening. This indication is provided by a switch in the trunk, but I have not found it in the manual, yet. Gimme a day or two!

 

I'm listening and understanding so far Mark. Thanks.

 

No, that is the "Roof Open" switch and is wired in series with the Cargo Divider switch. James provided a picture of it several posts ago just like yours. And yea, it sure is broken. The one James is working on LOOKS ok, but I question if it is ELECTRICALLY ok.

The Rear Bow Switch is on the Rear Bow Latch cylinder and indicates to the TCM that the Rear bow is either latched or unlatched. The unlatching is the "SNAP" sound you hear just after pressing the button and hearing the electric lock activate in the trunk. (Actually, I guess you also hear a softer "snap" when it latches back up when you put the top up.) See pages 23-458 to 23-460 in the manual!

 

Im headed to my Japanese lesson and then to bed, but: I think it's time we ALL tried putting our tops down manually, then back up manually - 'cause when the feces hits the rotating wind device, we are gonna want to be familiar with how to do it!

You know, like when it starts to rain and the %$#$ thing just beeps at you!

 

I thought it was previously identified as the bow switch in this same thread, in post #27...there is a roof open switch nearer to the windshield, I understood. So, am I wrong?

 

Mark, here is a better pic of the switch in question:



I will assume it is working electrically, because if you change the position of the switch with your fingers while the top is in this position, the beeping will stop, but the top will still not work.

James

 

So, mine is definitely broken...I don't have that spring or the plastic left on mine...

 

(Clarifying for post 147.)

MoparFreak is wrong here. I KNOW the names they use get kinda confusing, and the manual is HARD to read - I only have it figured out after about 5 hours with the manual, and THEN only because I printed over 70 pages of the manual!

The Rear Bow switch is on the rear bow latch on the underside of the Decklid or "Tonnaeu Cover".

The Top Open switch is the one we are talking about, you can see it on the passenger side just above the passenger's head when the top is open. And YOURS is broken!

The switch in the windshield frame is the "Latch Retainer" switch and activates when you turn the D handle to unlatch the roof from the frame.

And I am GOING TO BED! G'night all!!

 

Yea, you are right. That clears the diivider switch AND the Top Open switch!

Ok, let me pursue the trunk lid switch and wiring, because if the trunk is not being reported as closed or you are going over 9mph - then you will end up where you are! We are getting closer!

 

Guess I need a 'Top Open' switch! Looks like it might be a pain to replace, though!

 

Howard pointed me to this switch which I bought for a back up in case we needed it. It shipped quickly. Check it out.

Chrysler Crossfire Convertable Top Over-Center Switch | eBay

 

I checked with Mr.MoPar just in case...thanks for the lead, though!