Originally Posted by
Ronman
1. I would get a second opinion. It might be a rear sway bar bracket, usually driver's side but both can crack or break. It could also be the transmission mount. Go somewhere else and when it is up on the lift, look with them. Hopefully they let you go under the car and show you.
2. It might be the transmission pan but the most common leak is the connector which is in the Needswing pic on the link you posted. The connector leaks a lot and randomly even had a brand new one leak after a month. That is the correct kit but wherever you go make sure they are familiar with the 722.6 transmission and have the special dipstick. If they don't then order the dipstick with the kit. Mercedes used to say change fluid at 80k then never again then changed it to every 40k so you might as well change it since you are 47k. Most shops will charge you 2 hours labor for this. I would also get a second opinion on this too.
3. I bought the KYB rear shocks designed for the Crossfire and I do not like them at all. The KYB shocks are taller and when you go over some speed bumps the rear tires can rub against the car, the top rubber bushing inside the car can wear out prematurely also and squeak constantly. If you can get the OEM SLK320 shocks made by Sachs/Stabilus I would get those or just the Monroe. Some members like the Bilstein ones a lot. If you have a safe way to lift up the car and can compress the shocks then you can do it yourself. Otherwise a shop will charge you one hour just for the rears. You might be better off changing all 4 at this point.
4. The BAS/ESP module is not the BCM module. The BCM is near the engine and no way any transmission fluid can get to it. If you do need a BCM you will have to hunt for one where all the numbers match perfectly with the one you have. If you have a BAS/ESP light it can simply be a brake switch which is a cheap repair. Obviously they do not have a code reader than can read that module it is unlikely the module is dead. The Autel MD802 can read that module with zero problems. Other members swear by the Launch CRP123 but I have never used one. You need to see what codes are stored before throwing parts at it because it can get expensive.
Good luck.
Appreciate the response, I'm going to go head and get a second opinion. If the next shop states the same with the driveshaft carrier that bearing will work?