2005 Chrysler Crossfire Base
47,000 Miles
Automatic Transmission

Hey everyone new member here, but after doing some research around the site I need some clarification on things from senior members!

1st Issue:
Driveshaft
I heard a loud knocking towards the rear of my vehicle mostly at the top of first gear. I assumed a wheel bearing, but after taking the car to get inspected they suggested it was a bad driveshaft carrier bearing.They proceeded to tell me I would have to purchase a whole drive shaft assembly and they cant find the part blahblah. well I found a whole rear assembly for $700 on ebay, but after browsing this forum I stumbled upon this https://needswings.com/driveshaft-support-and-bearing my question is will this fit my base model with automatic transmission RWD, and will they have a easy time removing the drive shaft and installing this? They were claiming theirs no way to remove the shaft or some **** blahblah. Also is it a good idea to replace both flexs disks https://needswings.com/driveshaft-flex-disc while im at it?

2nd Issue:
Trans Leak
While installing an aftermarket stereo system I was bypassing the factory amplifier. To my concern after pulling up the carpet and inspecting behind the metal panel there was fluid everywhere I'm assuming transmission after researching on this forum and this leak being a common issue. Will this kit solve my issues https://needswings.com/7226-transmission-service-kit ? The shop said the trans pan was leaking, but I assume the pan and also the O rings to the electronic module of the trans due to oil wicking up the wiring loom.

3rd Issue:
Rear Shocks Leaking
Pretty straight forward, I didn't notice the car handling strange or riding hard when I purchased it a week ago and only 47k miles, but apparently both rear shocks are leaking and need replaced. Is this a pretty straight forward repair that I could attempt myself I couldn't seem to find a tutorial on this, also what brand of shocks should I purchase? (Don't want to go overboard, just a nice replacement.)

4th Issue:
Traction Control Module / ABS
This is pretty confusing to me, the shop said it's computer would not communicate with the Traction Control Module as if it was dead completely. Where is this located or is this actually the BCM (Body Control Module)? The car is being erratic with some weird things happening the past few days, I'm assuming the BCM was damaged due to the transmission fluid wicking up the wire to the passenger seat. For instance, yesterday my car would only lock from the key fob, then all of a sudden the dash button worked again. Also the spoiler seems to go up at any MPH and will not go back down unless the car is parked and restarted (blinking spoiler light). Can I simply purchase a used BCM and program myself?

Any information would be greatly appreciated! I'm bummed out but other then these issues I'm very pleased with the crossfire. I just didn't expect to have to deal with some issues with such low mileage.

Thanks,
Mike

 

1. I would get a second opinion. It might be a rear sway bar bracket, usually driver's side but both can crack or break. It could also be the transmission mount. Go somewhere else and when it is up on the lift, look with them. Hopefully they let you go under the car and show you.

2. It might be the transmission pan but the most common leak is the connector which is in the Needswing pic on the link you posted. The connector leaks a lot and randomly even had a brand new one leak after a month. That is the correct kit but wherever you go make sure they are familiar with the 722.6 transmission and have the special dipstick. If they don't then order the dipstick with the kit. Mercedes used to say change fluid at 80k then never again then changed it to every 40k so you might as well change it since you are 47k. Most shops will charge you 2 hours labor for this. I would also get a second opinion on this too.

3. I bought the KYB rear shocks designed for the Crossfire and I do not like them at all. The KYB shocks are taller and when you go over some speed bumps the rear tires can rub against the car, the top rubber bushing inside the car can wear out prematurely also and squeak constantly. If you can get the OEM SLK320 shocks made by Sachs/Stabilus I would get those or just the Monroe. Some members like the Bilstein ones a lot. If you have a safe way to lift up the car and can compress the shocks then you can do it yourself. Otherwise a shop will charge you one hour just for the rears. You might be better off changing all 4 at this point.

4. The BAS/ESP module is not the BCM module. The BCM is near the engine and no way any transmission fluid can get to it. If you do need a BCM you will have to hunt for one where all the numbers match perfectly with the one you have. If you have a BAS/ESP light it can simply be a brake switch which is a cheap repair. Obviously they do not have a code reader than can read that module it is unlikely the module is dead. The Autel MD802 can read that module with zero problems. Other members swear by the Launch CRP123 but I have never used one. You need to see what codes are stored before throwing parts at it because it can get expensive.

Good luck.

 

Appreciate the response, I'm going to go head and get a second opinion. If the next shop states the same with the driveshaft carrier that bearing will work?

 

Spoiler acting funny: Usually a bad battery and the ABS light can also become illuminated due to a flaky battery - if the battery is over four years old, replace it and let's see what we have. Otherwise, I'd suspect maybe a bad wheel speed sensor.

Lock-unlock button on panel not always working - but key fob does. This is an odd one. The lock-unlock button on the panel is wired to the BCM, the BCM then tells the CLP/SSM to "lock" or "unlock". We usually hear of the FOB not working but the button does work - not the other way around. I got nothin on this one!

 

I've heard that battery solution in another thread I'm going to go head and check the year of the battery now! Thanks for the idea man I also thought it was strange, it only happened after I installed the aftermarket amp for the sound system for about a day now magically its fine again button & fob. Another instance of something spastic. Im driving down the road fan off, all of a sudden its blowing hot air out of all vents for about a min or two. The other day it was hot on driver side and sort of cold on passenger side when turning fan on. Checked the AC fluid normal pressure no leaks, from other threads im thinking the heater control valve sticking?

 

Most likely, you should either clean the duovalve or replace it.
Otherwise, the issue is in the climate control module in the console.

One way to find out, is, when it acts up again, measure the voltage at the outer two pins of the duovalve. With both temp wheels at full cold, you should see close to zero volts on the outer two pins and battery voltage on the middle pin.
If you do, the valve is stuck on that side. The center pin is battery hot, the outer pins are the left and right coils. "COLD" is a fully grounded coil - less than .5 volts should be on the outer pins with the wheels at full cold.

 

Thanks for the solid advice, going to give this a try tomorrow morning. So far I’ve purchased a innova 5210 scanner tool, it’s supposed to do ABS & ODB2 I hooked it up, no stored engine codes as the check engine isn’t on. switched to abs mode it detected my car and protocol then failed to communicate the same problem other shops are having but not sure if this scanner is the right buy. I had the battery checked and it tested okay, I also tested the battery with the code reader and it turned out fine as well as the alternator. Anyone know how to trouble shoot a dead abs module? Also if the duo valve checks out should I attempt this fix to my climate control module https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...speed-fix.html

 

Took a look at my relay control module just for the hell of it, all the relays are in excellent condition, none closed or burnt, solder joints are strong but still decided to touch up the 3 that cause the start problems while I was there.


Noticed someone replaced this fuse with an abnormal size, going to replace do to the top not closing.

Is this the ABS module? It seems to be mounted differently then pictures I’ve seen online also some strange jumper wire coming out of the harness?

 

1) That fuse has nothing to do with the top, that is the engine cooling fan fuse.
2) That is the Fan Conttrol module, it operates the engine cooling fan and is powered by the fuse you mentioned in 1 above.

 

1) You had the battery checked and it "tested ok"?

Wrong. Replace the battery. NOW. "Testing" the battery (for the purposes in this thread) is a waste of time. It's late and I've got to get to bed, I"m not going to type out the explanation - trust me, trust us, REPLACE THE BATTERY - it is the cheapest diagnostic you can run. If the cost of the new battery bothers you, ask yourself how much time you can get at a garage for the $150 the battery costs. Maybe 1 1/2 hour. YOu could screw around chasing all these issues only to find out one or more is the damn battery.

2) If the ABS module really has gone bad, it must be replaced.

3) It may come to that.

 

got yah thanks, where is the ABD module located?

 

Sounds good, I never knew how accurate any of these battery tests really are. I’ll go pick one up tomorrow and perform that heater valve test as well thanks for the support guys.

 

The ABS module is that module mounted to the hydraulic control unit that has the big cable connected to it. Next to the fuse box under the hood, driver's side.

Ya can't miss it - its got all those brake lines going into it.

It is HIGH time you down loaded the service manual, you are not going to get thru this without it.
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ollection.html

 

Got bored late tonight and pulled the air control module out of curiosity and was about to perform the upgrade to the connectivity (my unit seems to be making a good connection) and strange enough I found some corrosion on a few small solder joints (no diodes) and some more where the plug seats. Wondering if this could be a possible cause to my issues

 

thanks for all the help guys! Sorry I’m completely green when it comes to this car I’m just a basic YouTube mechanic with a little bit of a tech background this form has been saving my ***

 

Pulled the battery out just now hitting 1 year old, all cells and tests have came back normal does it still make sense to replace?

 

Well some good news everyone I cleaned that corrosion and did the modification posted above to the control module and my ac is working again! The right side is super cold but the left is just a bit cold I’m going to go head and trouble shoot the heater control valve at this point thank you all for the help!

 

That mole in the end of the battery should have a plug in it to prevent corrosive gases an liquid coming out of it as it is a vent hole. The front hole should be open with a trap or vent hose on it.
You do not want corrosion around the battery area.

 

Glad you have that partial cool but, there is damage on that A/C head PC board innards. Without a way to check if it is damaged more than seeing that prior liquid corrosion I would scout around for a replacement (or find a crossfire owner near you and test yours by swapping out his to your car.) You might have to party a little first until the suggestion comes up to let you test his A/C head with yours (LOL). Pizzaguy's suggestion about the service manual is spot on, get it and go through it it will help you a lot. Good luck!


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I swapped batteries between my Ranger and Crossfire in order to prove if my battery was the issue. The very idea that you MUST put the EXACT right battery in for a test is wrong.