Originally Posted by
heavy_kevie
Okay, here's my top issue. Top won't go down, slow beep. Messed with cargo divider, no luck. Took to dealer, $140 later told divider not properly secured. When picked up from dealer tried to operate top, nada. Let dealer keep 10 days, didn't do anything waiting on tool. Picked up car and started looking into it. Checked divider switch and trunk switch operation, seems fine. Tried top operation, still nada. Now I tried something different, held down top down switch until beeping stopped, released switch then pushed down switch again and lo and behold the top went down. Tried this a few more times and seemed to work every time. Counted the beeps each time sometimes 5, sometimes 3, sometimes 2. Does this sound like it is low on hydraulic fluid?
This 'press and release, then press and hold" the switch is a new one on me - after eleven years here, I've never heard of that working, and many have tried. This seems odd to me.
Took to dealer, $140 later told divider not properly secured.
See my sigline, PLEASE don't tell us what the dealer said unless you are willing to pay us (well, ME) $140 as well.
Also, if you take the car back to the dealer again and admit it, you are banned from this forum for life!
As to this "told divider not properly secured" statement (and forgive me, I'm going to try to interpret what a dealer told you, making sense of what dealers tell customers is, generally, a waste of time), IF they read the system with the STAR tool, there IS no way they can determine if the divider switch is working or not. Their computer will tell them that "...
divider/top open indication high". That means the instrument told them that the series connection between those sensors is open - the cause is EITHER of those switches,
there is no way to know which it is, based on what they see on the screen. The tech working on it may not realize this. It is MOST COMMON it's the divider switch, but the top open switch fails as well.
Does this sound like it is low on hydraulic fluid?
NO. Low fluid usually manifests as "jerky" operation and "odd noises from the pump". But I certainly agree with the above post - take a look anyway.
If this 'double clutching" of the top switch works and is consistently required to make the top move, you have discovered something the rest of us have not encountered. If this turns out to be the case, it will be in all our best interests to work with you to resolve this, as we will all learn something. In any event, a failure of the top open switch or the divider switch cannot be bypassed with this technique - if the top is acting like this, and continues to act like this, we have something odd going on here. I REALLY do not think it is low fluid, either. But I could be very wrong, there are things programmed and designed into our cars we are just now discovering. Perhaps you have brought us a nugget of information we didnt have.
This could be very interesting............