Hey. Had the same problem that my roof and rear spoiler wouldn't activate. Manual spoiler button would flash on/off and when trying to activate roof the windows would lower but no roof action and just beeps.
Removed cover under boot lid and there was some condensation. Dried this and sprayed WD40 but no luck. Attached jump leads as seperate power source to the barrel and spoiler operated fine. Removed cable attachment (small square area at 4pm) as shown on pic and then s

mall part of this broke off. Couldn't get it to attach again and in my frustration connected it again thinking I'd knackered it. Surprisingly both the rear spoiler and hood now work perfectly and have done so after several tests. No idea why so can't really provide a practical reason why both now work. I'm just happy they do. Maybe you can try the same thing. Seems to me there is nothing to lose.

 

Did you check the hydraulic fluid level?

 

Sounds like the top open switch over the passenger head OR the divider switch in the trunk.

 

Im having the same problems but can not understand what you did. Where is the “boot lid cover”?

 

Disregard. Computer was slow loading and I didn't realize that there had been many more knowledgeable replies here than mine.

 

Just going to jump in here and share my experience with my inoperative top. After my layman's approach didn't uncover the cause I cried "uncle". Took my car to a recommended European repair shop. Dropped it off on Monday afternoon. Picked it up Wednesday afternoon. It just pays to have the right diagnostic tools to verify the top system is working right. Tom of Benz and Beemer in New Baltimore, Michigan traced the problem to a broken arm on the tonneau cylinder. Both my sensor switches checked out OK. Here's a short video showing this broken lever to the micro switch. In my case someone had sat on the tonneau cover apparently putting too much pressure on that part.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0z73...inton_Township

Good luck on your hunt!

Regards,

 

Not sure if this will help but I had trouble getting my top down. I had the battery disconnected for awhile and when i reconnected I was just getting the beeps when I tried. Not sure what happened. When i unlatched the the top the windows went down but nothing after that.
So I put the top down manually and it went back up by itself and now goes down by itself. I found this suggestion from a member on this forum so just passing it along. I also did this with the car running.

 

Thank you PizzaGuy for all your expertise with this forum. Please find the below experience I have had today. Definitely an all's-well-that-end-well day(s).Analysis of Crossfire Top Not Working

I have a 2006 Crossfire convertible. The top will no longer go up or down under power. Top can be raised and lowered manually with no problem.

Things I have tried and tested:

1. With the engine running and top up, open D ring and windows open automatically, press top down button it only beeps no top operation. Close D ring and press top up button and the windows raise automatically. Tried readjusting trunk divider with no change.

2. With engine running and top up, opened D ring, windows go down, press top down button just beeps. Tried to put top down/up manually multiple times (as suggested by PizzaGuy) but could not open rear top bow with 6mm hex wrench. I had to pull the fuse to depressurize hydraulic system, then manual operation completed several times with no change when pressing the top down button.

3. With the engine running and top down, pressed top up button and it only beeps. Attempt to perform manual raise, I can open the tonneau cover latch and raise it but can’t raise the top more than a quarter the way up as there is pressure in the hydraulic system. The tonneau cover now stands up on its own as it is now pressurized. I pulled the fuse to depressurize the hydraulic system.

4. I ohm tested the top-open switch above passenger seat and the trunk divider switch in the trunk and they both tested OK.

5. It seems like whenever I press the top up/down button the hydraulic system turns on but when attempting to raise the top the rear top bow doesn’t release and when attempting to put the top down it doesn’t release the tonneau cover. In addition the trunk never locks. I even tried to lock the truck manually at the dash (which it did lock) but still no top raise/lower operation.Is there a sensor in the trunk latch itself that signals the PTCM that the trunk lid is closed? I also removed the electric trunk lock and the tip (as suggested by PizzaGuy) to see if it the plunger moved in/out when pushing top up/down button and it did not in either case.

6. Then I thought I would check all top related (or what I thought were top related) fuses, again, and they were OK. While I was testing everything I noticed the cargo light wasn’t working ( the filament appeared to be broken) and the dome light wasn’t working so I checked that fuse too (fuse #9, 10 amp), it was blown, so I replaced it. Now the dome and cargo lights are working, some success. So, while I was testing the dome light I thought what the hell, let me check the top operation again and damned if it started working, up and down like it should. I don't see how that fuse had anything to do with the top so I put the blown fuse back in and tried the top and it still works. So I have no idea what I did or why it's now working but I'm happy that it is. Any insights?

 

I had exactly the same problem several years back, hasn't happened again since. The reason the top won't work when that fuse is blown is that it also supplies power to the BCM, Body Control Module.
I'm not sure what inside the module needs the power as there is no internal schematic that I know of.

 

Thanks for the feedback! It's nice that I'm not alone with strange things going on. What still puzzles me is when I put the blown fuse back in the top still works. I remember hearing a click under the hood over where the BCM lives when I put the new fuse in but didn't think anything of it. I wonder if a relay in the BCM gets set and retains the setting even if power is removed as when I put the blown fuse back in. Thanks again!

 

Okay, here's my top issue. Top won't go down, slow beep. Messed with cargo divider, no luck. Took to dealer, $140 later told divider not properly secured. When picked up from dealer tried to operate top, nada. Let dealer keep 10 days, didn't do anything waiting on tool. Picked up car and started looking into it. Checked divider switch and trunk switch operation, seems fine. Tried top operation, still nada. Now I tried something different, held down top down switch until beeping stopped, released switch then pushed down switch again and lo and behold the top went down. Tried this a few more times and seemed to work every time. Counted the beeps each time sometimes 5, sometimes 3, sometimes 2. Does this sound like it is low on hydraulic fluid?

 

It sure wouldn't hurt to check. Just get a flashlight and open the top to where the back cover is up and the top is about halfway and look down inside the driver side fender well in the back. If it is below the brass plug, it is low on fluid. Did you ever get a top tool? I believe top hydraulics has them.

 

This 'press and release, then press and hold" the switch is a new one on me - after eleven years here, I've never heard of that working, and many have tried. This seems odd to me.

See my sigline, PLEASE don't tell us what the dealer said unless you are willing to pay us (well, ME) $140 as well.
Also, if you take the car back to the dealer again and admit it, you are banned from this forum for life!

As to this "told divider not properly secured" statement (and forgive me, I'm going to try to interpret what a dealer told you, making sense of what dealers tell customers is, generally, a waste of time), IF they read the system with the STAR tool, there IS no way they can determine if the divider switch is working or not. Their computer will tell them that "... divider/top open indication high". That means the instrument told them that the series connection between those sensors is open - the cause is EITHER of those switches, there is no way to know which it is, based on what they see on the screen. The tech working on it may not realize this. It is MOST COMMON it's the divider switch, but the top open switch fails as well.

NO. Low fluid usually manifests as "jerky" operation and "odd noises from the pump". But I certainly agree with the above post - take a look anyway.

If this 'double clutching" of the top switch works and is consistently required to make the top move, you have discovered something the rest of us have not encountered. If this turns out to be the case, it will be in all our best interests to work with you to resolve this, as we will all learn something. In any event, a failure of the top open switch or the divider switch cannot be bypassed with this technique - if the top is acting like this, and continues to act like this, we have something odd going on here. I REALLY do not think it is low fluid, either. But I could be very wrong, there are things programmed and designed into our cars we are just now discovering. Perhaps you have brought us a nugget of information we didnt have.

This could be very interesting............

 

A 10mm wrench will work too, a tip from Top Hydraulics. You need a 6mm hex wrench to lock/unlock the rear bow.

 

I tried to look in the trunk with a flash light with the top in mid operation but I couldn't see anything, guess I will take the side panel off tomorrow after work and check the reservoir. BTW thanks for all the quick replies!

 

Put things in this position....


Now, stand next to the car, just to the left of the antenna, and look down in the wheel well, behind the driver's side wheel - you will see the tank.

If you removed the black "Top Control Module", arrow 1 would be pointing to the tank. It is hidden in this view, but now you know where you are looking.

 

Got into the trunk and looked at the reservoir, right at the min level. I see the brass bolt, I assume that is where you put the hydraulic fluid in, but what hydraulic fluid do I use to bring it to full?

 

Go here and there is info on almost any job.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...s-repairs.html

 

Have the Pentosin CHF 11S on order to bring reservoir up to max (will use balance to replace power steering fluid).

 

On September 30 the Crossfire was driven to a car show. The top was put down for the drive home. When the car got home the top would not go down but a little bit and somehow the trunk would not open. The owner said in trying to get the top up the red light on the push button switch stuck on and after a few minutes started blinking and in about ten minutes it went off.

We went out to the owner’s place on October 6 to take a look and through some sort of sequence we cannot recall trying to get the top up/down the trunk unlocked. Once the trunk was open we found the Divider spacer was not hooked into position (the problem back on 5/10/2023 when we went out there and got the top working) so we hooked into place and closed the trunk. But two or three more tries we made no progress on getting the top down although the trunk did unlock.

The last thing we did was get the top up but at the back it is not firmly all the way down. And again the little red light did it's little thing again. The trunk then would not open. That's where we left it.



10/7/2023 - Drove CF and it beep beep beeped and the light stayed on.

We drove out to the owner’s place again to try to get the trunk open to be able
to access the rear top manual lock with the 6mm hex head based on info
pulled from the netweb last night. False info on the net web...there is NO
yellow emergency release handle/cable in the car! We tried the key fob
thingy while pulling up on the trunk lift handle but this was a bust
because both key fobs were NOT WORKING BECAUSE THE # 2025
BATTERIES WERE DEAD! So this afternoon we stopped by Batteries Plus and bought batteries. The key fob takes TWO 3V
batteries. Back at it Friday afternoon after we followed the owner home and neither key fob worked to do anything….doors, trunk, nothing.
I removed the license plate and confirmed there is NO emergency trunk release cable behind it like I hjad seen in a photograph. Then I removed the two screws from the right license plate light and after that called it quits. Too tight, too cumnbersome, too awkward and the opening is tiny.

10/20/2023 – Could NOT get the console button looking like a key to open the trunk. We heard noises in the trunk but the trunk didn’t open. But partial success…when I started the car the annoying continuous beeping stopped. Started the car a second time and NO beeping. The little red light stays on until we turn the car off and it goes out after 5 or so minutes. Perhaps the owner can drive the car now with the top up.

The ONLY place within at least 100 miles that can work on this car (they got it running again last fall) is short of technicians and said it would be into next year before they can look it.

Any ideas how to get the trunk open? Or keep the thing from beeping so the owner can at least drive the car with the top up.

Thanks