I was in the shower and realized - it's not as simple as that, IF the switch IS bad.

See, in the position it goes to zero ohms, you must confirm that does not take extreme pressure or force to get zero ohms. If lightly pressing gets you 10-500 ohms and hard pressure gets you less than 1 or 2 ohms, then the switch is not going to always indicate 'closed' when it's closed. But usually, it's not that hard, the switch is good or bad and you will see that when you test it - just a bit of caution seemed appropriate.

ON the other hand, when OPEN, you want 100,000 ohms or more. If you see maybe 10,000 or 1000 ohms, the switch is leaky and may not indicate properly.

I don't like how I oversimplified things at first. I tend to do that and it gets me into trouble.