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Here is a photo of my latch retainer switch. Full video was too large to post to this site.
It appears to be in good condition with no water damage. How can I test to see if it is OK?
OOOps.Video is attached
Use an ohmmeter. It should show open (over 100,000 ohms) in one position and closed (under 1 ohm) in the other position.
It's a switch, simple as that.
ALSO, videos can only be linked - you must publish them to Youtube or elsewhere and put a link here to the video.
Yea, too much trouble to go thru, I agree.....
Last edited by pizzaguy; May 15, 2022 at 08:56 PM.
I was in the shower and realized - it's not as simple as that, IF the switch IS bad.
See, in the position it goes to zero ohms, you must confirm that does not take extreme pressure or force to get zero ohms. If lightly pressing gets you 10-500 ohms and hard pressure gets you less than 1 or 2 ohms, then the switch is not going to always indicate 'closed' when it's closed. But usually, it's not that hard, the switch is good or bad and you will see that when you test it - just a bit of caution seemed appropriate.
ON the other hand, when OPEN, you want 100,000 ohms or more. If you see maybe 10,000 or 1000 ohms, the switch is leaky and may not indicate properly.
I don't like how I oversimplified things at first. I tend to do that and it gets me into trouble.
Pizzaguy, Thanks again for the information. I had the Latch Retainer Switch tested by a local mechanic and he said the switch was good. I also removed the cam from secondary lock actuator arm in the trunk as was recommended. I have tried to reset the computer info by putting the top up and down with the car running. The problem I have is that during the sequence the top locks when hydraulic fluid flows to the cylinders so I have turn off the car and drain the fluid using the Top switch and ignition switch. The problems I now can observe, which I don't know if they are related to the top not going up or down are: 1. The spoiler switch shows no red light and will not lower or raise the spoiler. (however, the spoiler works when driving the car and reaching speed of 62 mph.
2. The red light on the top switch on the console has a steady light and beeps. It also beeps when I am driving. When I turn off the car and remove the key from the ignition the light continues to flash for a few minutes.. When I drive the car the red light flashes and beeps until I hit it once.
I have checked the open top switch not the passenger side head area. It appears to be functioning as does the switch in the toneau cover and the
Cargo Compartment divider.
Is their anything I can Hotwire that will help me identify the problem
The following problems exist and I do not know if they are related.
1. Spoiler switch does not work. Does this affect the top proble
2. Low tire indicator stays on. (I know how to disable that.)
3. Dome lights do not go on when door is opened.
The car runs well, and I did a few cosmetics.
One last question.
I read where a DRB3 scanner was used to identify problems earlier in the life of the Crossfire. I called two dealers to see if the had one. They do not. What do you know about them?
Sorry to be a pest, but you are the best source available, and I promise NEVER TO TAKE MY CAR TO A CHRYSLER DEALER.
Latch Retainer Switch
