I took my 2005 SRT-6 out today for a drive; yes, it's a Sunday driver, car shows, occasional trips, etc.. 34,500 miles, everything is all original except the radio (and I still have that as well). The ONLY thing I've ever done to it as non-original was installed the 'Sprint Booster' throttle module. That's it - nothing else performance wise, all else is stock Chrysler/Mercedes. Car is very clean, all parts, contacts, wiring, throttle-body, all rubber - clean, clean, clean - no cracks, no splits, nothing loose, nothing frayed, etc - still looks like showroom new - lives in Los Angeles so it's not subjected to inclement weather.

Staring out for the day, it drove fine, but after a few miles upon depressing the gas pedal at a light, absolutely nothing happened - 5 to 15 seconds until it kicked in which when at a light with a car behind you seems like an eternity, and then once it kicks in, it seemed to drive fine but then was sluggish and seemingly not wanting to find its gearing properly or up-shift when it should have. Mashing it to the full end seemed to help kick it in, but not as if it was its usual rocket-launch acceleration. Acceleration definitely was for the worse, and that lagging on depressing the pedal could even be dangerous.

I pulled it over and did the throttle-reset process. Immediately afterword, it then ran great. I also turned off the 'Sprint Booster' module/feature, but there was no noticeable change one way or the other. However, a few miles later, the acceleration issue seemed to be creeping back whereby I then mashed the pedal just to see what the car would do - it accelerated quickly, but THEN: the dreaded 'Check Engine' light came on.

I decided to drive it home and it drove normally, but the 'Check Engine' light is still on, even upon doing the throttle-reset again, and turning the car off/on.I have not yet had to do anything major to this car other than the following, which I did myself - some of those trials with photos are posted here on the forum:

• I replaced the notorious leaking transmission input harness socket (due to trans oil leaking around the o-ring) when I got it 5 years ago.
• I did the sticking-ignition fix before anything could ever come bad of that.
• Thought I had a SKREEM issue at one point a couple of years ago, but disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it solved that and it never happened again.
• Replaced the headliner about 2 years ago.
• Everything else has been general maintenance; tune-up, oil changes, filters, etc, etc.
• Every replacement part has always been factory-original, but rarely has that ever been necessary except the headliner reupholster I did a few years ago.

With the above in mind and your comments - do you think the accelerator pedal sensor is the most likely thing causing this issue? (No output to the engine on depressing the pedal combined with Check Engine light on a car with only 34,500 miles on the odometer.) I've read about symptoms due to the RCM, throttle-body, low-battery, and dirty wiring connections, but none of these concerns seem to fit my symptoms as clearly as those indicated by the throttle pedal sensor seem to mirror.

And since I haven't had any issues with the car yet where reading codes was necessary, what is the best remote/home-use code-reader available for the 2005 SRT-6?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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