It can be the TB or the throttle position indicator at the pedal. I suppose it could be the sprint booster.

But to have a CEL (which means the ECU has set code(s)) and waste time guessing seems silly to me. Read the code(s) and go from there.
The ECU knows something, now it may be unrelated to the hesitation, might be due to you flooring it. But "flooring it" should not set a code anyway, so let's find out what the ECU knows.

What reader to buy depends on how much of a "gear head" or "tech head" you are. The CP123 series is probably near the top of all of those out there.
My only criteria, is I want live data capability - and my BOSCH1100 does that very well. I admit that, with prices now, I'd go with the CRP123 but four years ago, the BOSCH was 1/2 the price, that is not the case any longer.

 

And if you just put the booster on, even in the last month or so, I"d yank it out and see if that clears it. Any symptoms that start right after a mod are usually related to the mod.

 

Thank you - like you noted, I don't want to guess. I'm quite car/tech capable; I've been building/restoring cars for 40 years, all sorts, engine and body-work alike; where electronics are concerned, I've tackled everything from Jaguar's Lucas and Marelli ignitions to BMW's wonky NiCad battery running dash-board electronics, and GM's OptiSpark madness, among others. Granted, many of the cars I've worked on, engines, transmissions, etc. have been 1980s and early, and mostly 1973 and earlier, so sure, I have not had to dive too deep into ECUs, computers, and OBD-readers except on some later Mustangs and Jaguars.

Yet, reading some of the posts on readers here, I'm puzzled about the best reader to get for the SRT-6 at a reasonable price. It seems many don't read unless you set it for Mercedes SLK170 or such, or gaming it to read another car, so I'm hoping to get the most applicable reader.

Cost-wise, I would be OK spending up to $500 on the best/most applicable reader I can get for that, which will give me the broadest range of codes and work with the SRT-6. (Also want to buy it from a reputable source, as I'm sure many of those being sold on Amazon and Ebay are counterfeits.)

( Also, to clarify it was more of a 'light' flooring it - definitely not slamming it to break a quarter-mile record; I may have given a bad impression due to my word choice. Certainly no abuse going on. )

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Thank you - no, it's been on there a while, no problems. I even posted about it here when I installed it. Link below - that was 2018. HOWEVER.... I just went out to the car just now, after it's been sitting for the past couple of hours, and with the Sprint Booster function turned off entirely, the car drove fine for about 3 miles, no issues - but the Check Engine light was on. Then upon returning home, I turned off the car, waited a few minutes, and then turning it back on the Check Engine light is now off.

I won't have time to mess with it today, but I think next weekend I'll remove the Sprint-Booster connector entirely to see if that is causing trouble and order/buy a code-reader in the mean-time.

I still want to get a good code-reader though, but there are so many variations/types it's a bit perplexing on which one to get.

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post906619

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Your symptoms are pretty much what I experienced with my accelerator pedal failure. As I found out and explained in one of the previous posts, the accelerator pedal has two Hall Effect sensors. When the main one fails the second one kicks in and I assume that’s the limp mode we experienced.
If your codes come up as the same that’s mine were then it’s strong possibility that it’s the pedal. Needswings has the correct pedal (at least it’s on the website.

It’s an easy replacement except for a washer that was difficult to get out, it was causing the pedal to hang up. Good luck whatever it is!

 

Thanks - doing my research here, I came across your post on it as well and that was very helpful, and a video showing the removal/washer issue. I also see a lot of people saying the same thing online about the Thottle Pedal Sensor, they it goes into "limp mode" when they mash the pedal, some noting the Check Engine light comes on - and in my case, now the Check Engine light is off after my similar experience today and car is driving normal so long as I don't jump on the pedal.

Confounding. I'm also seeing elsewhere online that others have also had issues with the Sprint Booster causing these symptoms and the 'Check Engine' light to come on, so I'm first going to try that angle. I'm going to disconnect the bypass, and reconnect the pedal directly. This car is not a daily driver so I'm in no way stranded, but is frustrating nonetheless.

I'll be getting a good code-reader for it now regardless if the 'Check Engine' light ever comes back on or not.

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It will be interesting to hear what you come up with. I still have the pedal I pulled out, I still plan to dissect it to see if I can find out what went wrong with it.

 

I dont think there IS a reader that costs $500 that you can't get all the functions of for under $200. The guys with the Ohio group (who hold tech days several times a year) are using the CRP123 products. They can do stuff my BOSCH cant and again, way less than $200.

While it is probably the sensor in the pedal, I have this cardinal rule: Remove mods to confirm the cause before spending money on parts/modules. But Im not made of money like many gearheads are. Back when I put the $350 windrestrictor in, I about cried over that money.

 

All good advice, thanks again, greatly appreciated. I looked up that CRP123 and seems to be in my price range and will do what I hope it can do - thanks for the recommendation. Your point on the cost makes sense. The last time I bought an OBD reader was about 20 years ago for a 1983 Mustang 5.0 GT - and it was really primitive compared to these new readers I'm seeing. It just gave a number on an grey/black LCD screen and you then looked up the code in a book.

I just went out again, started up the car, no 'Check Engine' light, drove it a couple of miles and it ran/accelerated great, all with the Sprint Booster off, so that Sprint Booster is the subject of my suspicion for the moment. Maybe it's sending confusing signals to the ECU, and throwing things out of whack.

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With the reader, you have a 2003 Mercedes SLK32 AMG.

 

FYI, the CRP123 reader is on sale today (cyber Monday) on Amazon. Something like 40% off, $98. I would buy one but already have a different one.

 

UPDATE to my posts #20 / #29 - I went with my gut and simply ordered a new Pedal/TPS. And that was it.

I took the car out again at one point after my posts above, and prior to ordering the new pedal, with the Sprintbooster disconnected, and the issue arose again in full-crapola; no power acceleration even with pedal to the floor, lagging several seconds with no feedback, limp-mode, all the symptoms. That convinced me to simply order the pedal, and even if it weren't the issue, at least I'd have that in my surplus parts inventory for what seems to be the inevitable a rainy day, yet it was absolutely the fix.

A couple of things to note:

Once installed, I went through the throttle reset procedure (again); after that, the pedal's responsiveness was MUCH better than it has ever been these past 5 years I've owned the car. That makes me think it was somehow devolving or incrementally getting worse all along if that's possible. The reason I got the Sprintbooster in the first place was because I didn't think the pedal was as responsive as it should be, and felt there was a lag in the call-time. Not ever having had a Crossfire SRT-6 before, I didn't have anything on which to compare it - and when asking others online about it, I don't think they could appreciate exactly the degree of lag that I was expressing, and assumed I was describing what would be the usual for the car and simply calling it the nature of a fly-by-wire set-up.

I have now, and have had, many classic pre-1973 cars and my daily driver happens to be the same. So I'm more used to the instant feedback of a cable based hook-up to a carb with immediate response. Now with the new pedal in, the Crossfire mimics that more immediate connection to the throttle better than it ever had.

The car is also no longer needing such constant nursing and travel of the pedal's range to maintain highway speeds, nor do I even need to barely press it to accelerate from say 65 to 80. Equally, at 80mph, I only need to hold the pedal partially down and fixed in one spot, with no need for bouncing the pedal to keep it in the wanted speed range; that should have been a sign right there something was wrong.

Lastly, over the past few months I noticed the car was ever so slightly, nearly undetectable, but seemingly searching for an even idle, whether cold or hot, and whether a cold day or hot day; it idled rougher than in the past. It was very slight, but there. With the new pedal in, the car now idles a whole lot more even, smoother, nor detectable rise/fall in the idle.

On swapping it out; there is much discussion about removal of the washer, but 2 things to make that easy: 1) After removing the retaining nut, I attached rare-earth magnets to the back of the 10mm socket to evenly lift up the washer while pushing the base of the pedal toward the front of the car. The latter seems to be key to making the removal easier. This allowed the washer to clear the bolt and its threads. 2) Once up and angled, then I removed it the rest of the way with a telescoping chaser magnet.

Also, since my original pedal-pad is still like new with only 35,000 miles on the car, I swapped out the new rubber/stainless slip-on pedal-pad portion from my old one to the new pedal, which will allow me to have a nice new rubber/stainless pedal pad replacement in the future if I ever really rip off or tear/wear those rubber nibs on the pedal.

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