Today, in my 2004 coupe with 75K miles, I experienced the first real glitch since I’ve owned it (which is a couple years and about 10K miles). It’s been raining heavily for a few days and unfortunately it has to sit outside. Today the sun was shining and I took it out for a drive. Prior to driving, I did inspect the normal points where water might get in and all were dry. I drove about 4 miles and came to a stop, when I went to go it was as if the engine had died. It was still running at idle and I was able to get off the road. When pushing on the accelerator it had no effect but then I realized if I held the pedal down it would slowly come up. So I was able to get it back home by not letting the rpms drop (it’s a 6 speed). In my driveway I shut it off, waited a minute and restarted it. No issue getting it started, the accelerator was controlling the rpms normally. I did a few back and forth runs in the driveway and it was all normal. I went ahead and took off to run my errands and drove it for more than an hour with no more issues.

When this first happened I thought maybe the accelerator pedal assembly could be bad (having just read a few posts here on that subject) but when it cured itself with a restart I figure it’s probably not that. I do plan on pulling the RCM and resoldering the joints just for good measure. Any other suggestions on what I could look at? I had the fuel filter replaced last year, less than 2000 miles ago. The good news is it’s not stuck on the side of the road, it seems there has been a few of those lately.

Thanks for any input.

 

Update: it did exactly the same thing today and oddly the power fade occurred at the same stop light. Cold start, 4 miles to the light and no power to take off. After waiting for the revs to increase, continued to my destination by keeping the revs up. Then once started the problem was gone. I drove for another hour or so with 2 full stops and restarts with no issues.

 

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My guess, RFI. A high powered transmitter located near that intersection. You hadn't mentioned if that intersection does it to your crossfire every time you stop there. I know you said you continued to have this issue until you did a start/stop cycle, is that correct? Next time it does it (again, go to the same intersection) see if a stop/start cycle (away from that intersection) fixes it. If it does fix it I would almost surely say an RFI issue (no guarantees though). Twice at that intersection gives me that pause (joking aside)... Good luck! These 'intermittants' are sometimes hard to find...

 

I appreciate the input. Yes, once the power faded at the intersection it continued to have the problem until I turned it off and restarted.

It’s an interesting theory. I have gone to that same intersection many times with no issue before this occurred. Another feature of the intersection is that it’s on a slight downhill. I’m going to go give it another road test where the first stop is on a flat road. I’ll report back what happens.

 

Ok, new information. I started her up and as soon as I went to drive off the power dropped. My driveway also has a downhill stop to turn on the road, but now I don’t think the hill has anything to do with it…. because once I was able to back it up (while sitting still the throttle had zero effect, the car just idled. Then when I put it in gear it would allow slow increase to the revs, weird) the CEL was on, yahoo!

I have a Innova dongle scanner with the Bluetooth to an app. Here’s what it read:Critical:
P0122 Throttle position sensor low

Needs attention:

P2071 Engine control module-n/a

P20DC-n/a
Not sure what “needs attention” means.

These two P20XX codes are not on the list of codes in the stickies.

Then there was a recommendation to replace the throttle body but there wasn’t a specific code for it.

I would think this is pointing to the throttle position sensor on the accelerator pedal. Any other thoughts?

 

I would agree with your diagnosis. It's an intermittent problem right now, but it sounds like it is happening more often, and sooner or later, it is just going to fail.

 

It appears to be the sensor on the pedal. I can say this: When Tricia (OakwoodXF) had all sorts of acceleration and performance issues, it was her throttle body.
But, oddly enough, it NEVER set a code or the Check Engine light. It appears that the TB can go to hell without setting off a code, but the sensor in the pedal SEEMS to always set a code.

Just my observation from what Iv'e seen others experience in the 12 years I've been on the forum.....

 

I have a throttle body if u need it, 25 + shipping it is from a 2004 auto.

 

Thank you guys. It’s always good to have consensus when you have to spend a couple hundred for a part. Curious, has anyone ever attempted to diagnose the position sensor? It’s probably a variable resistor of some flavor, right? When the variable resistors start acting up in my guitar amps I clean them with electrical contact spray and they are good for another 10 years.

I will get a new pedal on order but I will see if I can determine what is wrong with the old one.

Edit: the service manual says the position sensor on the pedal is a Hall effect and magnet. And it says there are two, a primary and a secondary. The system compares the two signals and if #1 is different from #2 it switches to #2. Maybe that becomes limp mode which acts like what I and others have described as slow acceleration.

 

amx1397 I am interested in the throttle body as well. If anything I like to keep spares of things considering the waning availability of some parts for these cars.

I’ll send a pm.

 

sounds like either

throttle body
gas pedal
trans conductor plate

 

Thanks NW. I have a manual trans so no plate thing there, right?

 

Correct.

 

sent message for TB reset and here are the pic the P/n on this TB is A112441 01 25

 

To close the book on this…
I tried the throttle reset with no success. In the meantime I ordered a new accelerator pedal assy. I bought amx1397s throttle body as a fall back.

Today I installed the new accelerator and it fixed the problem. The CEL turned off as well. The most difficult thing about getting the accelerator out is removing the washer that is under the nut holding the thing down. I didn’t have a magnet skinny enough to fit in and grab the washer. I tried a few probes and screwdrivers but no luck. Then I took some really strong neodymium magnets and stuck them on a pair of tweezers. There was just enough Mag strength in the tips of the tweezers to lift the washer. Also, it’s an awkward reach which didn’t help. After getting that out the pedal comes out easily.

I’m back on the road again. Thanks to all that chimed in.

 

Now u need to do the throttle reset again.

 

Agreed, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to do it after installing the new one. Before doing it there was a hesitation when tapping the pedal. After the reset it eliminated the hesitation.

 

also clean your throttle body,, open it by hand (engine off) and wipe both sides as much as u can the start engine and spray carb cleaner into the sides where the shaft is.

 

Thanks for the tip. Ill be changing the oil soon so I’ll do it then.

 

I took my 2005 SRT-6 out today for a drive; yes, it's a Sunday driver, car shows, occasional trips, etc.. 34,500 miles, everything is all original except the radio (and I still have that as well). The ONLY thing I've ever done to it as non-original was installed the 'Sprint Booster' throttle module. That's it - nothing else performance wise, all else is stock Chrysler/Mercedes. Car is very clean, all parts, contacts, wiring, throttle-body, all rubber - clean, clean, clean - no cracks, no splits, nothing loose, nothing frayed, etc - still looks like showroom new - lives in Los Angeles so it's not subjected to inclement weather.

Staring out for the day, it drove fine, but after a few miles upon depressing the gas pedal at a light, absolutely nothing happened - 5 to 15 seconds until it kicked in which when at a light with a car behind you seems like an eternity, and then once it kicks in, it seemed to drive fine but then was sluggish and seemingly not wanting to find its gearing properly or up-shift when it should have. Mashing it to the full end seemed to help kick it in, but not as if it was its usual rocket-launch acceleration. Acceleration definitely was for the worse, and that lagging on depressing the pedal could even be dangerous.

I pulled it over and did the throttle-reset process. Immediately afterword, it then ran great. I also turned off the 'Sprint Booster' module/feature, but there was no noticeable change one way or the other. However, a few miles later, the acceleration issue seemed to be creeping back whereby I then mashed the pedal just to see what the car would do - it accelerated quickly, but THEN: the dreaded 'Check Engine' light came on.

I decided to drive it home and it drove normally, but the 'Check Engine' light is still on, even upon doing the throttle-reset again, and turning the car off/on.I have not yet had to do anything major to this car other than the following, which I did myself - some of those trials with photos are posted here on the forum:

• I replaced the notorious leaking transmission input harness socket (due to trans oil leaking around the o-ring) when I got it 5 years ago.
• I did the sticking-ignition fix before anything could ever come bad of that.
• Thought I had a SKREEM issue at one point a couple of years ago, but disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it solved that and it never happened again.
• Replaced the headliner about 2 years ago.
• Everything else has been general maintenance; tune-up, oil changes, filters, etc, etc.
• Every replacement part has always been factory-original, but rarely has that ever been necessary except the headliner reupholster I did a few years ago.

With the above in mind and your comments - do you think the accelerator pedal sensor is the most likely thing causing this issue? (No output to the engine on depressing the pedal combined with Check Engine light on a car with only 34,500 miles on the odometer.) I've read about symptoms due to the RCM, throttle-body, low-battery, and dirty wiring connections, but none of these concerns seem to fit my symptoms as clearly as those indicated by the throttle pedal sensor seem to mirror.

And since I haven't had any issues with the car yet where reading codes was necessary, what is the best remote/home-use code-reader available for the 2005 SRT-6?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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