Originally Posted by
Romad
Couple days ago I was idling at a traffic signal and it just cut off! Turned AC and radio off and tried again and it started right up.
Could be a bad crank sensor. Or could be a bad "engine control relay output" from the RCM.
This afternoon I got gas and tried starting but did nothing except had dash lights.
If you mean the starter did not engage, next time it does this, WAIT with key at ON for 1/2 minute, if the engine fan spins fast after about 15 seconds, then the engine control relay output from the RCM has failed. This will cause teh engine to DIE and the starter will NOT engage in such a case.
Two more things:
Do not disregard what Tighe has to say.
I'm leaning towards a bad RCM. CRank and Cam sensors will not stop the starter from engaging, but a bad RCM will. It is not much more complicated than that.
Second try and it started right up! Don't know where to go from here. If I can get one of the two OBD readers working on my Android I'll pull some codes. It pairs with my phone but won't do anything.
Flaky cam and crank sensors will usually but not always throw codes. Bad RCMs generally don't throw codes because if the engine control relay output fails, the ECU does not power it, it can't generate codes if it is not powered up.
Buying non-Bosch cam and crank sensors is a waste of time. They can and do cause FLAKY issues like: WOn't start, but starter engages. Dies at traffic lights. Runs rough.
Tighe and I and others have been on here for YEARS. If you think we are wrong, I have no idea what you will say when Zeracer, Valk, LagDan, onehundred80 and dozens of others tell you the same thing. BOSH for Cam and Crank or suffer the consequences.
Actually, I just put a new unified coil pack and crank sensor in my Ford Ranger. I used Motorcraft parts only, when troubleshooting confusing problems, I don't waste my time on off-brand parts that may have been manufactured outside of specifications to avoid patent issues, or due to lousy quality control.